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Best car wax?
#21
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
I'm checking out some of those waxes & sealants and prepping techniques and i gotta say its rather interesting.
I'm gonna submit my car for south texas heatwave jus for fun, and I'd like to have that show car wet look.
Duragloss ( what I"m leaning towards )
collonite 845
cajunshine
Seeing some cars with those waxes applied and dam, they look LEGIT
I'm buying me a BADASS buffer TODAY
With proper prep work, most waxes/sealants are going to look great. The subtle difference between them all are fairly minor once you've done the true surface correction.
Carnauba waxes generally use more oils and therefore will "deepen" the paint a bit more but last a much shorter time.
Sealants will typically give a "brighter" finish and last for a longer time.
For the money, my personal preference is S100/P21s carnauba and Zaino Z5 Pro sealant. Other noteworthy options are Pinnacle Souveran and Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection.
Prep, prep, prep.
Carnauba waxes generally use more oils and therefore will "deepen" the paint a bit more but last a much shorter time.
Sealants will typically give a "brighter" finish and last for a longer time.
For the money, my personal preference is S100/P21s carnauba and Zaino Z5 Pro sealant. Other noteworthy options are Pinnacle Souveran and Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection.
Prep, prep, prep.
Thanks for sharing that btw, i now have a better understanding of the differences between carnauba and sealants haha
#22
yes it is, its red w/ black mirrors & a black hard top. Right now mine jus looks clean not wet like yours is atm.
I'm checking out some of those waxes & sealants and prepping techniques and i gotta say its rather interesting.
I'm gonna submit my car for south texas heatwave jus for fun, and I'd like to have that show car wet look.
Duragloss ( what I"m leaning towards )
collonite 845
cajunshine
Seeing some cars with those waxes applied and dam, they look LEGIT
I'm buying me a BADASS buffer TODAY
Are those considered commercial detailing waxes & sealants?
Thanks for sharing that btw, i now have a better understanding of the differences between carnauba and sealants haha
I'm checking out some of those waxes & sealants and prepping techniques and i gotta say its rather interesting.
I'm gonna submit my car for south texas heatwave jus for fun, and I'd like to have that show car wet look.
Duragloss ( what I"m leaning towards )
collonite 845
cajunshine
Seeing some cars with those waxes applied and dam, they look LEGIT
I'm buying me a BADASS buffer TODAY
Are those considered commercial detailing waxes & sealants?
Thanks for sharing that btw, i now have a better understanding of the differences between carnauba and sealants haha
The waxes and sealants I listed above are not commercial products; they are boutique products. If you are leaning toward Duragloss, it's a nice option and should be available locally to you. You should also be able to find S100 carnauba locally if you have a Harley Davidson dealer nearby for about $16.
Wash thoroughly
Claybar to remove surface contamination
Polish to remove surface imperfections
Seal and/or wax
Remember, when you're looking at pictures online, you're seeing more of the proper prep work than the sealant/wax.
#23
For Texas Heat and what the sun does to your car...Wolfgangs stuff works really well. I use it exclusively.
#25
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
+ the sun.
http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/
they got a legit website, I'll have to see if they got it locally.. never heard of it tho
A Porter Cable 7424 random orbital polisher is the usual place to start, but if you'd like a step up from that, you might consider the Flex orbital polisher. It is a forced motion machine so it will correct quicker than a PC, but it's still orbital so it reduces the risk of burning the paint from a rotary buffer. Lake Country pads are the way to go.
The waxes and sealants I listed above are not commercial products; they are boutique products. If you are leaning toward Duragloss, it's a nice option and should be available locally to you. You should also be able to find S100 carnauba locally if you have a Harley Davidson dealer nearby for about $16.
Wash thoroughly
Claybar to remove surface contamination
Polish to remove surface imperfections
Seal and/or wax
Remember, when you're looking at pictures online, you're seeing more of the proper prep work than the sealant/wax.
The waxes and sealants I listed above are not commercial products; they are boutique products. If you are leaning toward Duragloss, it's a nice option and should be available locally to you. You should also be able to find S100 carnauba locally if you have a Harley Davidson dealer nearby for about $16.
Wash thoroughly
Claybar to remove surface contamination
Polish to remove surface imperfections
Seal and/or wax
Remember, when you're looking at pictures online, you're seeing more of the proper prep work than the sealant/wax.
I'm good with my wash soap and technique for now, i make sure there is no dirt, smudge, smell, seagul poop, water spots, ANYWHERE when im done washing/drying. I do however think i need a bigger drying towel tbh haha
I gonna buy a badass claybar today (shouldn't be that hard to decide)
My paint is flawless, literally no imperfections, chips, swirls, scratches. So, in your opinion, should I still invest in a polish?
now, with that being said, should i apply sealant then apply wax or does it not matter?
Last edited by LeanPocket; 06-01-2011 at 12:29 PM. Reason: addition
#26
i live in corpus chrsiti texas, not by the ocean thank god, but we have vietnam style humidity. Almost every morning theres a light fog, and my car is COVERED in condensation water.
+ the sun.
http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/
they got a legit website, I'll have to see if they got it locally.. never heard of it tho
+ the sun.
http://www.wolfgangcarcare.com/
they got a legit website, I'll have to see if they got it locally.. never heard of it tho
#27
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
$175 for that sumbitch LOL thats on my watch list for sure tho after see'ing what it offers. They do however give u a free refill
With all jokes aside, I'm very tempted in getting that now that i read more about it.
With all jokes aside, I'm very tempted in getting that now that i read more about it.
#28
I still use good old fashion Turtle Wax. Requires more time and effort, but it lasts and in Florida, where it's hot much of the time, more humid than most of the country(particularly Orlando and south) and always dusty, I don't wanna spend the coin for carnauba, etc. and just have to do it that much more often. After a TW application, I'm done for at very least, 1 month. Of course, if you want something that washes off more easily and is much easier to apply and buff out, TW is not likely your best pick.
#30
I use adams, and will never use another product other than them. check out thier forums tons of great how-to's picks, help, ect.
this is not even using thier americana wax:
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/u...olishes030.jpg
this is not even using thier americana wax:
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/u...olishes030.jpg
I'm going to place an order soon with Adams and see about trying out a few of their products and see how the durability and longevity is on it.
If you do, pm me and let me know how you like it.
#31
the car looks great camaross. i like to use meguiars carnuba. i have never dropped 175 on wax before but never have been disappointed with meguiars carnuba. i have heard and seen great things with adams as well.
#32
I use Meguiars as my go to stuff. You can't go wrong with anything they offer.
#33
Case in point.... This owner told me SEVERAL times over the phone he had ZERO swirl marks. He was very insistent on that fact as most people tend to be. This is what he thought was no swirls......you be the judge.
Now, I did not do a full correction on this car, he wasn't willing to pay that much. So we went for a 70-80% swirl removal and here is a 50/50 shot. Suddenly he understood what I had been telling him. He did have swirl marks, and they were BAD.
*Again as a disclaimer, this job was not a full correction. There were swirls left behind. Goal was ~70-80% correction*
Look into collonite 845! It has some definite durability, expect 5 months or so of protection and water beading. Just pop it into google. Lots of people use it for dd cars or cars without garages that they want too look great. No it isnt THE best looking compared to other more expensive caranuba waxes(still looks great though). But those dont last too long.
With proper prep work, most waxes/sealants are going to look great. The subtle difference between them all are fairly minor once you've done the true surface correction.
Carnauba waxes generally use more oils and therefore will "deepen" the paint a bit more but last a much shorter time.
Sealants will typically give a "brighter" finish and last for a longer time.
For the money, my personal preference is S100/P21s carnauba and Zaino Z5 Pro sealant. Other noteworthy options are Pinnacle Souveran and Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection.
Prep, prep, prep.
Carnauba waxes generally use more oils and therefore will "deepen" the paint a bit more but last a much shorter time.
Sealants will typically give a "brighter" finish and last for a longer time.
For the money, my personal preference is S100/P21s carnauba and Zaino Z5 Pro sealant. Other noteworthy options are Pinnacle Souveran and Blackfire All Finish Paint Protection.
Prep, prep, prep.
I still use good old fashion Turtle Wax. Requires more time and effort, but it lasts and in Florida, where it's hot much of the time, more humid than most of the country(particularly Orlando and south) and always dusty, I don't wanna spend the coin for carnauba, etc. and just have to do it that much more often. After a TW application, I'm done for at very least, 1 month. Of course, if you want something that washes off more easily and is much easier to apply and buff out, TW is not likely your best pick.
Those two things are kinda contradictory.... 1 month is not good durability at all, but is what I'd expect from TW. Blackfire Wet Diamond = 3-4 months, Zaino/Rejex = 6 months, Collinite 845 = 4-6 months, Wolfgang Paint Sealant 3.0 = ~3 months. Might be time for you to put the TW down and save yourself some effort.
Get a PC. A rotary in inexperienced hands is dangerous to your paint. It is not a tool for the novice.
#34
for a sealant id say wolfgang paint sealant 3.0
and one of my favorite waxes is Pinnacle Souveran http://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html and they say the paste is even better. liquid souveran looks GREAT on white/light colored vehicles
and one of my favorite waxes is Pinnacle Souveran http://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html and they say the paste is even better. liquid souveran looks GREAT on white/light colored vehicles
#35
Dude u got this thread on lockdown There is a harley shop about 10 miles away, I'll go in and check it out today when i get out of work if they are open.
I'm good with my wash soap and technique for now, i make sure there is no dirt, smudge, smell, seagul poop, water spots, ANYWHERE when im done washing/drying. I do however think i need a bigger drying towel tbh haha
I gonna buy a badass claybar today (shouldn't be that hard to decide)
My paint is flawless, literally no imperfections, chips, swirls, scratches. So, in your opinion, should I still invest in a polish?
now, with that being said, should i apply sealant then apply wax or does it not matter?
I'm good with my wash soap and technique for now, i make sure there is no dirt, smudge, smell, seagul poop, water spots, ANYWHERE when im done washing/drying. I do however think i need a bigger drying towel tbh haha
I gonna buy a badass claybar today (shouldn't be that hard to decide)
My paint is flawless, literally no imperfections, chips, swirls, scratches. So, in your opinion, should I still invest in a polish?
now, with that being said, should i apply sealant then apply wax or does it not matter?
#36
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From: Corpus Christi Texas
This is what your referring to right? This is what i was wanting to buy.
maybe a different pad or something
No offense taken, however my car does NOT look like that veetak's paint AT ALL, but i understand your point and why you shared that with us. With that being said, im sure I have some flaws.. somewhere, ..but with my naked eye I can't see any imperfections, and I draft & design mechanical instruments ( too much to elaborate ) so paying EXTREME attention to detail is my forte.
NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID my car is a '98, 24k miles, I think the condition of my paint is rather impressive considering the age.
I wish I had a high resolution camera to take a few pics to share with everyone but I hope this helps
Car was somewhat dirty, and has a few finger prints but i dont think u can tell
(that smudge mid-left is a stupid sticker someone left on my car )
OMG my camera phone BLOWSSSSS these pics do no justice but atleast u get a good idea on the condition. Hell, maybe you might find imperfections, it'll give me something to do this weekend
edit: OH and no wax was applied when i took any of those pix
Last edited by LeanPocket; 06-01-2011 at 02:37 PM. Reason: forgot to add something
#37
There is no easy/correct one answer to this question...its like coke/pepsi...but to better understand the perfect shine scenario; I suggest some reading over at http://www.autopia.org/forum/forum.php which is an auto detailing website. FWIW, assuming your paint is already prepared, I use a great carnauba called Pinnacle Sovereign paste wax, easy on, easy off, super shine but a higher end boutique wax MSRP $99 can...
http://www.pinnaclewax.com/souveran.html
http://www.pinnaclewax.com/souveran.html
#38
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1.../PC-7424-L.png
This is what your referring to right? This is what i was wanting to buy.
maybe a different pad or something
No offense taken, however my car does NOT look like that veetak's paint AT ALL, but i understand your point and why you shared that with us. With that being said, im sure I have some flaws.. somewhere, ..but with my naked eye I can't see any imperfections, and I draft & design mechanical instruments ( too much to elaborate ) so paying EXTREME attention to detail is my forte.
NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID my car is a '98, 24k miles, I think the condition of my paint is rather impressive considering the age.
I wish I had a high resolution camera to take a few pics to share with everyone but I hope this helps
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...4912400_n1.jpg Car was somewhat dirty, and has a few finger prints but i dont think u can tell
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1..._7843461_o.jpg
(that smudge mid-left is a stupid sticker someone left on my car )
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...1520006_n1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...3461313_n1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...4983343_n1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...672_n-Copy.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1..._4952757_n.jpg
OMG my camera phone BLOWSSSSS these pics do no justice but atleast u get a good idea on the condition. Hell, maybe you might find imperfections, it'll give me something to do this weekend
edit: OH and no wax was applied when i took any of those pix
This is what your referring to right? This is what i was wanting to buy.
maybe a different pad or something
No offense taken, however my car does NOT look like that veetak's paint AT ALL, but i understand your point and why you shared that with us. With that being said, im sure I have some flaws.. somewhere, ..but with my naked eye I can't see any imperfections, and I draft & design mechanical instruments ( too much to elaborate ) so paying EXTREME attention to detail is my forte.
NOW WITH THAT BEING SAID my car is a '98, 24k miles, I think the condition of my paint is rather impressive considering the age.
I wish I had a high resolution camera to take a few pics to share with everyone but I hope this helps
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...4912400_n1.jpg Car was somewhat dirty, and has a few finger prints but i dont think u can tell
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1..._7843461_o.jpg
(that smudge mid-left is a stupid sticker someone left on my car )
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...1520006_n1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...3461313_n1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...4983343_n1.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...672_n-Copy.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1..._4952757_n.jpg
OMG my camera phone BLOWSSSSS these pics do no justice but atleast u get a good idea on the condition. Hell, maybe you might find imperfections, it'll give me something to do this weekend
edit: OH and no wax was applied when i took any of those pix
Yes, thats the one. Though I'd get the newer model the PCXP. Also do not use the pad that comes with it. Get some orange, white, and black Lake Country pads.
As for the condition of your paint, the pictures don't really say anything unfortunately. Look at the pics I posted, both with sun spots directly reflecting into the lens. This is how you spot the flaws. Your very first pic is the only one with a sun reflecting in it, and its only on the mirror from too far away and too low resolution to see anything. Take a pic around 11am-1pm on the hood and get the sun right in the lens, that will show you....or just look at it in the same way. Good luck to you!
#39
Remember that the less you touch your paint the less you will create surface imperfections/swirl marks etc.
The only reason I add this is because I noticed in a post above that you stated you were going to purchase some big towels for drying.
I have a metro vac and it allows me to blow dry the car. It allows me to blow all the water out of the tight crevices that towels can not reach and like I stated, it is one less step in which the paint it not touched.
Purchase a polish. M105 and M205 are outstanding.
cut/correct(might wash car again), apply sealant, then top wax/carnauba if desired.
The PC is great for beginners, it is what I started with. I still own it and use it. It certainly can do much of what a rotary can do, but not entirely. To put it into a basic more simple perspective a rotary can cut in one pass what a PC can cut in 3 or 4 passes(all things else equal) from what I have experienced.
The only reason I add this is because I noticed in a post above that you stated you were going to purchase some big towels for drying.
I have a metro vac and it allows me to blow dry the car. It allows me to blow all the water out of the tight crevices that towels can not reach and like I stated, it is one less step in which the paint it not touched.
Purchase a polish. M105 and M205 are outstanding.
cut/correct(might wash car again), apply sealant, then top wax/carnauba if desired.
The PC is great for beginners, it is what I started with. I still own it and use it. It certainly can do much of what a rotary can do, but not entirely. To put it into a basic more simple perspective a rotary can cut in one pass what a PC can cut in 3 or 4 passes(all things else equal) from what I have experienced.