scratches on trans am filler panel?????????
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: nc
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Angry](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif)
i have a lot of scratches on my filler panel (panel between taillights) and a little on my taillights. is there any way to get the scuffs and scratches off. they just ruin the appearence of the back end for me!!!!!!
#2
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If they aren't too deep you can polish the tail lights and filler panel. There is a write up somewhere, but I'll go over it quickly here.
You can take all the parts off the car by unscrewing 10 thumb screws or leave them in place
Sand the tail lights and filler using high grit sand paper (800, 1000, 1500, then 2000 is what I used you can go up to 3000 for better results)
Polish (I did this by hand using Meguiars PlastX but if you can use a buffer)
It should be smooth like glass when you are done.
I know some people do it differently, but this way worked fine for me.
You can take all the parts off the car by unscrewing 10 thumb screws or leave them in place
Sand the tail lights and filler using high grit sand paper (800, 1000, 1500, then 2000 is what I used you can go up to 3000 for better results)
Polish (I did this by hand using Meguiars PlastX but if you can use a buffer)
It should be smooth like glass when you are done.
I know some people do it differently, but this way worked fine for me.
#4
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
This is from another forum, posted by PontiacFan
I've done literally DOZENS of these things over the last couple years, ...
Yes, nail polish remover will remove the leftover red fading ink first.
I start with a 600 grit, keeping it wet, using a small 1/4 sheet sander.
Then on to 1200-1500 by hand, then finish by hand with 2000 grit, keeping them wet while sanding to wash away the contamination.
Then I use an old Black & Decker orbital polisher with Zaino's Glass Polish first,
You'll get the same/similar description by most anyone else who has done it. Although some may not put that much work into it, .... You can also use other brands of polish. I've tried others, but didn't get the same quality results as I do with the Zaino process.
Good Luck!
(By the way, I do all this with the units screwed down to my temp workbench work surface. Not on the car.)
I've done literally DOZENS of these things over the last couple years, ...
Yes, nail polish remover will remove the leftover red fading ink first.
I start with a 600 grit, keeping it wet, using a small 1/4 sheet sander.
Then on to 1200-1500 by hand, then finish by hand with 2000 grit, keeping them wet while sanding to wash away the contamination.
Then I use an old Black & Decker orbital polisher with Zaino's Glass Polish first,
You'll get the same/similar description by most anyone else who has done it. Although some may not put that much work into it, .... You can also use other brands of polish. I've tried others, but didn't get the same quality results as I do with the Zaino process.
Good Luck!
(By the way, I do all this with the units screwed down to my temp workbench work surface. Not on the car.)
#5
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The brand of polish is up to you. Any automotive polish will work. I've used Meguiars, others use Zaino or Mothers. There are more companies out there, but whatever you use to polish your car will work on the tail lights and filler panel.
#7
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wet sand. It will create more scratches which is why you use progressively higher and higher grits. When you get to your final grit sandpaper the scratches will be too fine to see individually, but it will dull the entire panel evenly. When you polish it after sanding you bring back the shine. I'm looking for the write up with pics so you can see what it will look likeafter each step.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
http://www.fullthrottlev6.com/forums..._polished_rear
I know this is the write up I used when I did mine a couple years ago, but the pics of the process arent working. You can see the finished product though.
http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549651 post 18 here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...il-lights.html post 5 here shows what it looks like during the process.
I know this is the write up I used when I did mine a couple years ago, but the pics of the process arent working. You can see the finished product though.
http://m.modernhemi.com/forums/showthread.php?t=549651 post 18 here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...il-lights.html post 5 here shows what it looks like during the process.
Last edited by Pseudonym; 08-04-2011 at 02:25 PM.
#10
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: nc
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So i have 1500 grit and 2000 grit. I wet sand from lowest to highest on grits then i polish with the plastX on the buffer correct??? How do i know when to stop sanding?
#11
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Scroll down, It's a headlight restoration guide but will work for plastic. Remember it is about leveling out the plastic and once your done/satisfied with the results, you do need to seal/protect with a good wax and then make sure not to accidently induce new scratches.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ation-process/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...ation-process/
#12
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Correct. Once it looks uniform you can stop sanding. Do the sanding by hand, keep the paper wet and you shouldn't have any problems. I went over the whole thing twice with each of the lower grits then about five times with the 2000 grit. Then use the PlastX on the buffer, which should only take about a minute. It took about 5 minutes by hand.
It's not as difficult as it sounds. I did it when I was 17 in my fairly dark garage and it ended up looking nice.
It's not as difficult as it sounds. I did it when I was 17 in my fairly dark garage and it ended up looking nice.