Ask a Professional Detailer
#481
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I figured that about the brush, though I was hoping it wasn't true...problem is that there are huge signs in the wash bays that say "no buckets" and "no hand washing"...but that's probably because they don't want people cheaping out by going there and just using the water...maybe if I make it so that I've got money in the meter the whole time they'd leave me alone.
#482
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GoFast.. i have a c5 vette and many people know that their clear coats are horribly hard i did test spots with both my pc and Flex D/A and am not happy with the amount of time i have to spend in one particular area. im thinking about buying a rotary and i know the consequences of using it incorrectly.
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
Just wondering a few things:
1- have you ever used "Refinish Restorer" on exterior plastic? If you read Avalanche forums, you'll see a lot of talk. I Have used it on a set of old nasty looking Avalanche BED COVERS... they look like new now (except for a ton of scratches) and have for a year.
2- Engine compartment... is there a product that can be used to make stuff look clean without having to scrub or add any 303/etc? Don't care if its shiny.
2.5... Engine compartment/undercarriage painted parts... my car has dirt/grime on the painted parts and seems anything I use to clean it REMOVES PAINT. What do I do?
Thanks in advance.
1- have you ever used "Refinish Restorer" on exterior plastic? If you read Avalanche forums, you'll see a lot of talk. I Have used it on a set of old nasty looking Avalanche BED COVERS... they look like new now (except for a ton of scratches) and have for a year.
2- Engine compartment... is there a product that can be used to make stuff look clean without having to scrub or add any 303/etc? Don't care if its shiny.
2.5... Engine compartment/undercarriage painted parts... my car has dirt/grime on the painted parts and seems anything I use to clean it REMOVES PAINT. What do I do?
Thanks in advance.
303 is great for engine bays as it will stay looking good for a while and doesn't attract dirt like armor all or most other dressings.
Are you talking the factory paint on the underside of the car or the aftermarket parts? If its the factory color, its not typically completely cleared since its not meant to be polished or cleaned really, so scrub it and you may get paint transfer. For aftermarket parts, if they are painted (as opposed to powdercoated) they are likely single stage paint, so color transfer is normal for single stage.
Got a question for you... Can I use Meguiars #7 on top of (or below) Autoglym SRP? I have an extra bottle of the stuff being unused. Would I want to use it with SRP at all? Currently when I wash the car, I do a 2 bucket wash, then a layer of SRP, then a layer of NXT 2.0 paste w/foam applicator. All of this is by hand, since I don't have an orbital/rotary.
Additionally, should I be using NXT 2.0 paste on top of SRP, since it is a cleaner wax?
Edit: I just looked into it a bit more, and found that Collinite #845 works well with SRP. Think I'll buy some of that and ditch the NXT 2.0.
Additionally, should I be using NXT 2.0 paste on top of SRP, since it is a cleaner wax?
Edit: I just looked into it a bit more, and found that Collinite #845 works well with SRP. Think I'll buy some of that and ditch the NXT 2.0.
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I asked Eric from Tru Shine Detailing since his dad has a big rig detail business and he let me in on a secret for it. Now I haven't tried it but he swears by it. A few pieces of **** carpet and Busch's Aluminum Polish.
You can also do it with a cutting pad on the PC with M105 and it'll work great, but wear a respirator and eye protection and expect it to shred a pad or two (this is why you need the protection! Aluminum, polish, and foam getting in eyes/mouth/lungs = no good), but works great.
To preserve the finish, just do an IPA wipedown to remove the oils and then apply the wax or sealant of your choice. Wash it with the 2 bucket method and a quality mitt and microfibers.
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Believe me when I say this.
Look into the Meguiars Microfiber Cutting disks and Meguiars Correction Compound (D300). These things eat through GM clear with ease. I've also found cleaning the pads with compressed air after each section not only cleans the pad better removing all traces of dust and build up, but fluffs the fibers up better to provide better cut. This is using compressed air over the brush method. I have done both and the results were the same, but once that pad got loaded up, it didn't cut as well.
I have no problems with GM Vette clears or any for that matter really. If the D300 doesn't provide the bite I'm looking for, I'll add a drop or two of M105 or just use 105 by itself.
This system really REALLY lives by the old saying, "LESS IS MORE". Two drops at the most is what I'll use after the pad is primed.
Look into the Meguiars Microfiber Cutting disks and Meguiars Correction Compound (D300). These things eat through GM clear with ease. I've also found cleaning the pads with compressed air after each section not only cleans the pad better removing all traces of dust and build up, but fluffs the fibers up better to provide better cut. This is using compressed air over the brush method. I have done both and the results were the same, but once that pad got loaded up, it didn't cut as well.
I have no problems with GM Vette clears or any for that matter really. If the D300 doesn't provide the bite I'm looking for, I'll add a drop or two of M105 or just use 105 by itself.
This system really REALLY lives by the old saying, "LESS IS MORE". Two drops at the most is what I'll use after the pad is primed.
+1000000000 on cleaning (air or brush) after every panel with the MF pads!
BadCompany came in with the knowledge!
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Hopefully my problem can be helped, if not Im close friends with a body guy who can help me out... regardless here we go
after years of neglect my front bumper has what appears to be permanent bug marks on the front bumper, and its dull...
what would the best method be to look it as good as possible without repainting it?
Second.... the owner that had the car before the guy I bought it from, let the car sit under a tree... and some sap go onto the paint
well where the sap sat for a period of time, the paint appears to be grey, if i rub it with my hand though, it doesnt appear that it ate through the clear/paint....
is there any way to get rid of these as well?
thanks again for the great thread
after years of neglect my front bumper has what appears to be permanent bug marks on the front bumper, and its dull...
what would the best method be to look it as good as possible without repainting it?
Second.... the owner that had the car before the guy I bought it from, let the car sit under a tree... and some sap go onto the paint
well where the sap sat for a period of time, the paint appears to be grey, if i rub it with my hand though, it doesnt appear that it ate through the clear/paint....
is there any way to get rid of these as well?
thanks again for the great thread
I'm not sure what you mean about it looking gray...don't know the original color either? If sap has sat on the paint for an extended period it'll likely require wetsanding and sometimes repainting.
#485
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Junkman's PC motion is VERY slow and he performs MULTIPLE crosshatch passes. The Meguiars video shows a much quicker movement with only one overlapping pass.
EXAMPLE VIDEOS:
Mequiars video, "Using the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher", 9th row down:
http://www.meguiars.com/en/videos/
Junkman video ----------------------->>>>>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou4slueGVU
#486
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http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/junkmans-corner/
In the forum postings Junkman has great write-ups detailing the videos. If you go straight to YouTube you will not get all the information and it will be less organized.
Once you have watched all his series in the forum, then go to YouTube and search for Junkman2000.
#487
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So i get a call from a guy wanting to know if i can clean up his semi. Without know what i was getting into i said yes because he is a family friend. Upon arrival i see its much worse than i ever anticipated, and im not sure i can tackle it being a noob with the pc. But i do a test spot and see its possible and start on it. Im looking for any advice you may have, different techniques, different polishes to help finish this the best as possible, different combinations. Basically im asking for your advice on the matter, and then what you would use wouldnt use?
Side not im using 105 right now with a yellow pad on some parts, and a orange pad on some parts. Its drying up super fast and will not stay lubricated. To taked it off im having to wipe it with a damp mf towel. Took me about 3 hours to get this far. The lines in the second pic are reflections of the shed door that was closed and one that was open just for clarification.
Side not im using 105 right now with a yellow pad on some parts, and a orange pad on some parts. Its drying up super fast and will not stay lubricated. To taked it off im having to wipe it with a damp mf towel. Took me about 3 hours to get this far. The lines in the second pic are reflections of the shed door that was closed and one that was open just for clarification.
Last edited by 00articz; 11-15-2011 at 11:14 PM.
#492
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
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I haven't heard of it actually. I'd definitely be interested on more info on it, if you can point me there?
Its called: Refinish Restorer by Carsystems
I ordered mine from Ditchek... but now can't seem to find the company... appears they folded or merged.
Just found a new site that carries:
http://www.carworx.net/products.php?...3&catalog_id=1
Also:
From an Av forum though, here is where someone ordered from:
Automotive & Industrial Paint Supply Inc
425 N Main St Newton, KS 67114
(316) 283-1108
303 is great for engine bays as it will stay looking good for a while and doesn't attract dirt like armor all or most other dressings.
Not quite what I was getting at.... looking for some cleaner/degreaser that I can clean the grime/dirt/etc by spray-apply ...without scrubing -then hose off -and get a good clean engine bay. Got anything?
Also, FWIW, I've used 303 on interior and it rubs off... As far as underhood plastics, the refinish restorer works well too (though I have not put it directly on more structural stuff... only on decorative covers.
Are you talking the factory paint on the underside of the car or the aftermarket parts?
Yes, the factory paint underhood/underbody. Definitely comes off with any product I've used. I'd like to detail those areas, but losing paint keeps me from pursuing.
Its called: Refinish Restorer by Carsystems
I ordered mine from Ditchek... but now can't seem to find the company... appears they folded or merged.
Just found a new site that carries:
http://www.carworx.net/products.php?...3&catalog_id=1
Also:
From an Av forum though, here is where someone ordered from:
Automotive & Industrial Paint Supply Inc
425 N Main St Newton, KS 67114
(316) 283-1108
303 is great for engine bays as it will stay looking good for a while and doesn't attract dirt like armor all or most other dressings.
Not quite what I was getting at.... looking for some cleaner/degreaser that I can clean the grime/dirt/etc by spray-apply ...without scrubing -then hose off -and get a good clean engine bay. Got anything?
Also, FWIW, I've used 303 on interior and it rubs off... As far as underhood plastics, the refinish restorer works well too (though I have not put it directly on more structural stuff... only on decorative covers.
Are you talking the factory paint on the underside of the car or the aftermarket parts?
Yes, the factory paint underhood/underbody. Definitely comes off with any product I've used. I'd like to detail those areas, but losing paint keeps me from pursuing.
Last edited by Fish-man; 11-13-2011 at 09:39 PM.
#493
TECH Addict
iTrader: (31)
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Does the coupon code "Corvetteforum" always work for Autogeek? I just tried it and it worked. It even got me 10% off buffers! I've always known the code "autopia" would get you 5%, but it doesn't include buffers and high dollar items.
Also, what method would you use to polish up a clear bra?
Also, what method would you use to polish up a clear bra?
#494
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Does the coupon code "Corvetteforum" always work for Autogeek? I just tried it and it worked. It even got me 10% off buffers! I've always known the code "autopia" would get you 5%, but it doesn't include buffers and high dollar items.
Also, what method would you use to polish up a clear bra?
Also, what method would you use to polish up a clear bra?
Just got my most recent autogeek order in the mail. Iron-X, plenty of cobra microfibers, Foam gun, lake country 5.5" flat pads, 85RD, blackfire wet diamond, and some other goodies. If weather permits, I'm going to get this car looking amazing this weekend!
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#495
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I'm not sure you should reference Junkman's technique for the Meguiars products. Junkman's technique works for the Adams products, but not for the Meguiars products. I found that if you use Junkman's techniques with Meguiars 105 it will turn into a powdery mess.
Junkman's PC motion is VERY slow and he performs MULTIPLE crosshatch passes. The Meguiars video shows a much quicker movement with only one overlapping pass.
EXAMPLE VIDEOS:
Mequiars video, "Using the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher", 9th row down:
http://www.meguiars.com/en/videos/
Junkman video ----------------------->>>>>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou4slueGVU
Junkman's PC motion is VERY slow and he performs MULTIPLE crosshatch passes. The Meguiars video shows a much quicker movement with only one overlapping pass.
EXAMPLE VIDEOS:
Mequiars video, "Using the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher", 9th row down:
http://www.meguiars.com/en/videos/
Junkman video ----------------------->>>>>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou4slueGVU
I wasn't referencing his videos specifically FOR the Megs products. Just as an example/starting point for good paint correction methods. Then tailor it to your product choice and adjust the method.
So i get a call from a guy wanting to know if i can clean up his semi. Without know what i was getting into i said yes because he is a family friend. Upon arrival i see its much worse than i ever anticipated, and im not sure i can tackle it being a noob with the pc. But i do a test spot and see its possible and start on it. Im looking for any advice you may have, different techniques, different polishes to help finish this the best as possible, different combinations. Basically im asking for your advice on the matter, and then what you would use wouldnt use?
Side not im using 105 right now with a yellow pad on some parts, and a orange pad on some parts. Its drying up super fast and will not stay lubricated. To taked it off im having to wipe it with a damp mf towel. Took me about 3 hours to get this far. The lines in the second pic are reflections of the shed door that was closed and one that was open just for clarification.
Side not im using 105 right now with a yellow pad on some parts, and a orange pad on some parts. Its drying up super fast and will not stay lubricated. To taked it off im having to wipe it with a damp mf towel. Took me about 3 hours to get this far. The lines in the second pic are reflections of the shed door that was closed and one that was open just for clarification.
A dawn wash or some Chemical Guys Citrus Wash with a strong concentrations will do it too.
#496
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Not quite what I was getting at.... looking for some cleaner/degreaser that I can clean the grime/dirt/etc by spray-apply ...without scrubing -then hose off -and get a good clean engine bay. Got anything?
Also, FWIW, I've used 303 on interior and it rubs off... As far as underhood plastics, the refinish restorer works well too (though I have not put it directly on more structural stuff... only on decorative covers.
Yes, the factory paint underhood/underbody. Definitely comes off with any product I've used. I'd like to detail those areas, but losing paint keeps me from pursuing.
Also, FWIW, I've used 303 on interior and it rubs off... As far as underhood plastics, the refinish restorer works well too (though I have not put it directly on more structural stuff... only on decorative covers.
Yes, the factory paint underhood/underbody. Definitely comes off with any product I've used. I'd like to detail those areas, but losing paint keeps me from pursuing.
303 rubs off on your interior? How do you mean? Like the shine comes off if you touch it? I personally wouldn't apply it to any surfaces you'll be touching.
For the underbody, what are you using now? With the lack of clear/paint coverage you have to clean it gently. Use some detail spray or car wash soap in a spray bottle and wipe it very gently.
#498
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Does the coupon code "Corvetteforum" always work for Autogeek? I just tried it and it worked. It even got me 10% off buffers! I've always known the code "autopia" would get you 5%, but it doesn't include buffers and high dollar items.
Also, what method would you use to polish up a clear bra?
Also, what method would you use to polish up a clear bra?
It depends on the brand for clear bra. They are not easy to do. Use a DA instead of rotary, keep the speed down (not above 5), use minimal pressure, do not use M105/205 or any other products that have non-diminishing abrasives.
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#500
TECH Resident
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Ok go fast I got some questions for you
recently I started a business on base for simple car detailing
now I am based in Germany so all I have access to is basic car care stuff and home cleaners at the market..brands they have out here are meguires, turtle, armoall , rain x , ect nothing fancy.. And I have access to home cleaners ..so I need advice for stuff that I don't have to use to much of, and that saves some money but works great. The list of stuff I clean is coming , along with what's the toughest parts to clean for me !
1)exterior paint(i hand wash, and spray wax) what's best?
2)wheels and tires(alot of heavy rain here so wheels are bad)
3)wheel wells(alot of grim and bugs)
4)engine bay(I need this part to be semi spotless with basic stuff)
5)windows(I use invisible glass)
6)interior(leather, plastic interior)
7)front end of the car(covered with flys and bugs thick amounts that are tough)!
Note I do this all at a hand car wash station, I bring my own bucket and supplies and do a vacuum too , so I need to know what products I can use/methods of using to make my life easier and make my clients happy ..oh and that save time
thanks in advance I hope to hear from you !!!
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1)exterior paint(i hand wash, and spray wax) what's best?
2)wheels and tires(alot of heavy rain here so wheels are bad)
3)wheel wells(alot of grim and bugs)
4)engine bay(I need this part to be semi spotless with basic stuff)
5)windows(I use invisible glass)
6)interior(leather, plastic interior)
7)front end of the car(covered with flys and bugs thick amounts that are tough)!
Note I do this all at a hand car wash station, I bring my own bucket and supplies and do a vacuum too , so I need to know what products I can use/methods of using to make my life easier and make my clients happy ..oh and that save time
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