Little old, but my advise is that if you can, go after hours. Nobody is around to yell at you for bucket washing.

 

Yes, Corvette clear coat is super hard. The Adams stuff is good, but IMO its not up to the job on hard clears. You CAN do it, but it takes much longer than with a product thats more suited to the job. The PC and Flex are really all the tools you need unless you're taking this on as a business. Menzerna SIP is the key to Corvette clears. M105/205 work great and will cut a little more, but the Menzerna will cut 90% of what the M105 will do and finish down better than M205. Its really like 2 polishes in 1. That being said, on severely swirled cars, M105 is a great choice. Though sometimes I'll follow it with SIP or 106FA (another Menz designed for hard clears).


I haven't heard of it actually. I'd definitely be interested on more info on it, if you can point me there?

303 is great for engine bays as it will stay looking good for a while and doesn't attract dirt like armor all or most other dressings.

Are you talking the factory paint on the underside of the car or the aftermarket parts? If its the factory color, its not typically completely cleared since its not meant to be polished or cleaned really, so scrub it and you may get paint transfer. For aftermarket parts, if they are painted (as opposed to powdercoated) they are likely single stage paint, so color transfer is normal for single stage.

I think Zex covered this one well.

habeba86 covered this one.



I asked Eric from Tru Shine Detailing since his dad has a big rig detail business and he let me in on a secret for it. Now I haven't tried it but he swears by it. A few pieces of **** carpet and Busch's Aluminum Polish.

You can also do it with a cutting pad on the PC with M105 and it'll work great, but wear a respirator and eye protection and expect it to shred a pad or two (this is why you need the protection! Aluminum, polish, and foam getting in eyes/mouth/lungs = no good), but works great.


Well I've never detailed in the humidity, so I'm not the best to ask on that. However, what product(s) are you using? Some are just hard to remove no matter what.

The black pad is great for it, also the crimson hydrotech pad is also a good choice (holds its form over time better as well). Using a pad that has any cut with 85RD will likely not yield optimal results. Its designed as a final polish/jeweling polish to yield the highest gloss and clarity. Should only be used once all cutting/correction is done.

To preserve the finish, just do an IPA wipedown to remove the oils and then apply the wax or sealant of your choice. Wash it with the 2 bucket method and a quality mitt and microfibers.



The MF system is great. I use it frequently now. On vettes, they usually need the boost of cut that 105 has mixed with the working time of the D300 to get good results.

+1000000000 on cleaning (air or brush) after every panel with the MF pads!

BadCompany came in with the knowledge!

Use a DA or rotary to polish them out. If that doesn't take them out, you'll need to wetsand the areas.

I'm not sure what you mean about it looking gray...don't know the original color either? If sap has sat on the paint for an extended period it'll likely require wetsanding and sometimes repainting.

 

At what point do you just repaint a car?

Amount of detailing needed? Scratches to metal? etc.

 

When the clear coat is failing (base/clear), or when the paint starts to fade permanently or loose its pigmentation (single stage).

Or when there is other damage enough to convince you a repaint is necessary.

 

I'm not sure you should reference Junkman's technique for the Meguiars products. Junkman's technique works for the Adams products, but not for the Meguiars products. I found that if you use Junkman's techniques with Meguiars 105 it will turn into a powdery mess.

Junkman's PC motion is VERY slow and he performs MULTIPLE crosshatch passes. The Meguiars video shows a much quicker movement with only one overlapping pass.


EXAMPLE VIDEOS:

Mequiars video, "Using the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher", 9th row down:
http://www.meguiars.com/en/videos/


Junkman video ----------------------->>>>>>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou4slueGVU

 

Before you search for Junkman on youtube, go to the "The Junkmans Corner" on the Adams car care forum:

http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/junkmans-corner/

In the forum postings Junkman has great write-ups detailing the videos. If you go straight to YouTube you will not get all the information and it will be less organized.

Once you have watched all his series in the forum, then go to YouTube and search for Junkman2000.

 

So i get a call from a guy wanting to know if i can clean up his semi. Without know what i was getting into i said yes because he is a family friend. Upon arrival i see its much worse than i ever anticipated, and im not sure i can tackle it being a noob with the pc. But i do a test spot and see its possible and start on it. Im looking for any advice you may have, different techniques, different polishes to help finish this the best as possible, different combinations. Basically im asking for your advice on the matter, and then what you would use wouldnt use?


Side not im using 105 right now with a yellow pad on some parts, and a orange pad on some parts. Its drying up super fast and will not stay lubricated. To taked it off im having to wipe it with a damp mf towel. Took me about 3 hours to get this far. The lines in the second pic are reflections of the shed door that was closed and one that was open just for clarification.

 

Does anyone know how to remove wax with out a clay bar. About to put her up for winter thanks

 

You want to keep the wax on the paint if you're storing it. If you're saying you're going to re-wax it, just wash it with dawn, that will remove most/all the existing wax then you can continue to polish and wax it.

 

Ya i am going to re wax it and clean the inside lol thanks so just dawn?

 

Yea just a dawn wash will do.

 

I haven't heard of it actually. I'd definitely be interested on more info on it, if you can point me there?
Its called: Refinish Restorer by Carsystems
I ordered mine from Ditchek... but now can't seem to find the company... appears they folded or merged.
Just found a new site that carries:
http://www.carworx.net/products.php?...3&catalog_id=1

Also:
From an Av forum though, here is where someone ordered from:
Automotive & Industrial Paint Supply Inc
425 N Main St Newton, KS 67114
(316) 283-1108


303 is great for engine bays as it will stay looking good for a while and doesn't attract dirt like armor all or most other dressings.
Not quite what I was getting at.... looking for some cleaner/degreaser that I can clean the grime/dirt/etc by spray-apply ...without scrubing -then hose off -and get a good clean engine bay. Got anything?

Also, FWIW, I've used 303 on interior and it rubs off... As far as underhood plastics, the refinish restorer works well too (though I have not put it directly on more structural stuff... only on decorative covers.


Are you talking the factory paint on the underside of the car or the aftermarket parts?
Yes, the factory paint underhood/underbody. Definitely comes off with any product I've used. I'd like to detail those areas, but losing paint keeps me from pursuing.

 

Does the coupon code "Corvetteforum" always work for Autogeek? I just tried it and it worked. It even got me 10% off buffers! I've always known the code "autopia" would get you 5%, but it doesn't include buffers and high dollar items.

Also, what method would you use to polish up a clear bra?

 

It has each time I've used it. Never purchased a buffer or anything like that with the code though. They just had a veterans day sale, 15% off everything which was just my luck since I missed it.

Just got my most recent autogeek order in the mail. Iron-X, plenty of cobra microfibers, Foam gun, lake country 5.5" flat pads, 85RD, blackfire wet diamond, and some other goodies. If weather permits, I'm going to get this car looking amazing this weekend!

 

I wasn't referencing his videos specifically FOR the Megs products. Just as an example/starting point for good paint correction methods. Then tailor it to your product choice and adjust the method.

I've never done a semi before, so I'm not sure I'd be the best to advise you on it. Contact Eric at Tru Shine Detailing (google him) and ask him. Tell him I sent you. He's worked on Semis before.

Why do you want to remove the wax before storing it?

A dawn wash or some Chemical Guys Citrus Wash with a strong concentrations will do it too.

 

Oh I misunderstood the question. In that case, Black Magic makes (don't know if its still available) a product thats an aerosol 2-in-1 Engine Cleaner / Dressing. It tends to leave a white residue on rubber hoses, so you'll need to wipe those after, but other than that it works well for spray on spray off. Honestly you won't find better because you really need to scrub it for good results.

303 rubs off on your interior? How do you mean? Like the shine comes off if you touch it? I personally wouldn't apply it to any surfaces you'll be touching.

For the underbody, what are you using now? With the lack of clear/paint coverage you have to clean it gently. Use some detail spray or car wash soap in a spray bottle and wipe it very gently.

 

No im removing wax then re waxing and detailing before hand.

 

Usually coupon codes don't apply for buffers. Interesting... Anyway yes the code always works.

It depends on the brand for clear bra. They are not easy to do. Use a DA instead of rotary, keep the speed down (not above 5), use minimal pressure, do not use M105/205 or any other products that have non-diminishing abrasives.

 

Ok i took off the wax and re waxed it and cleaned the inside and door jams and there is no tar. So what is the best way to clean the engine bay?

 

Ok go fast I got some questions for you recently I started a business on base for simple car detailing now I am based in Germany so all I have access to is basic car care stuff and home cleaners at the market..brands they have out here are meguires, turtle, armoall , rain x , ect nothing fancy.. And I have access to home cleaners ..so I need advice for stuff that I don't have to use to much of, and that saves some money but works great. The list of stuff I clean is coming , along with what's the toughest parts to clean for me !
1)exterior paint(i hand wash, and spray wax) what's best?
2)wheels and tires(alot of heavy rain here so wheels are bad)
3)wheel wells(alot of grim and bugs)
4)engine bay(I need this part to be semi spotless with basic stuff)
5)windows(I use invisible glass)
6)interior(leather, plastic interior)
7)front end of the car(covered with flys and bugs thick amounts that are tough)!
Note I do this all at a hand car wash station, I bring my own bucket and supplies and do a vacuum too , so I need to know what products I can use/methods of using to make my life easier and make my clients happy ..oh and that save time thanks in advance I hope to hear from you !!!