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Dylan pretty much nailed it about the stripes.
I would add though.... Many sealants are ok for the stripes too, without need to mask off. Zaino, Blackfire Wet Diamond, Menzerna Powerlock, and Opti-Seal. All will work on stripes with no issues or buildup on edges.
MF towel washing instructions
-Launder separately in warm or cold water (I don't use hot). Air dry or tumble dry on Low. Do not iron. Do not use: (bleach, fabric softener, water softener, or dryer sheets). Only wash MF with MF. Never wash with anything cotton. Be sure lint trap is perfectly cleaned out, as to not get any cotton fiber transfer to the MF towels. For brand new MF towels, run them 1-2 cycles through the laundry before using. Also, use a little less soap than you normally would.
Normal liquid soap is fine, but Micro Restore is specifically made for this and does a great job. Chemical Guys also have one (which I just bought) but haven't used it yet.
Its fine for removing wax in the cracks and crevices, but outside of that its not really going to remove regular wax applied to the paint.
Also, for routine waxing, is there any significant difference between wax/sealant applied by hand and wax/sealant applied by PC? Or do you just basically use the PC on the large primary surfaces that are easy to access and then wax/seal the more intricate places by hand?
Any tricks for that location similar to the bottle cap trick in your recent truck detail thread, or is removing the spoiler basically the only option if serious correction is needed?
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Do you have any preferences on car shampoos?
In your experience what are the best MF towels to go with and how many do you use during a detail?
Also as you had a nbm whats the best product to make it pop like crazy!
btw love your write ups!
I just cleaned my engine bay (98 z28, m6, 92k miles), im pretty sure im the first one to do it. See the thumbnails for before+afters
anyway, I bought some aluminum engine enamel from autozone, it was like...$6, but can i just spray down the whole thing? or should i be disassembling things to get to the heads+block? OR is this not even necessary?
ALSO whats the LEAST pain in the *** way to clean dirt off hoses?
Thanks!
I didnt tape my lid, although i didnt spray my lid,
I basically covered my PCM/ECU, battery, fuse box, and a couple other wires with saran wrap, tinfoil works too.
Then get some degreaser, either simple green, or i found some purple stuff at wal mart that said good for cleaning engines...so i trust that haha
Spray down all that dirty gunky **** on your heads and block, make sure to get in the crevices, grab a paint brush, soft brush, or tooth brush to move it around into areas where it wont go.
then grab your hose, and pressure washer, BE GENTLE!!! No heavy streams on sensitive things, i used a pretty heavy mist while i was rinsing it all off, be very thorough, you dont want to leave any of the degreaser on.
Grab your high powered leave blower and blow it dry, use an air compressor to get into the smaller spots.
correction?
Do you prefer rotary with wool pad vs DA polisher?
Last edited by CamaroSS27; Sep 17, 2011 at 08:03 AM.
Just to give us a general idea of what does what. I know he mentioned before a lot of it has to do with the clear coat and it's hardness.
Sorry for the delay in getting to everyone's questions. I've been pulling some very long hours the last 3 days on a very rare car. I'm completely exhausted right now. I will try to get to a few more questions tomorrow evening if possible.










