Ask a Professional Detailer
You misunderstood me. I'm going to be cleaning, claying, cutting, polishing, and waxing my car, in that order, regardless of using iron-x. I was asking if it was necessary to use iron-x since i'm going to be claying my car then cutting and polishing the paint. My research suggests using iron-x will be beneficial. I wanted a professionals opinion before I purchased it.
An iron removing step will only further help you imo. I've seen brand new vehicles that "bleed" like crazy after an Iron-X application. It's amazing that the true condition of some of these newer vehicles is tollerated by the public. It's understandable though as 99% of the population doesn't look at paint the same way many of us in this thread do.
I only operate a part time detailing venture, so this isn't my main source of income like a few guys in here. However, I'm confident that both Jeff and Jason will both agree. This thread was ironically one of my big motivating factors to get myself trained, and my business started. You have to start somewhere, and this thread has helped me, as well as many others, tremendously!
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area
Lol here are the great threads
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/car-...ar-duster.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...l#post13118585
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/car-...ar-duster.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...l#post13118585
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Ohio
You misunderstood me. I'm going to be cleaning, claying, cutting, polishing, and waxing my car, in that order, regardless of using iron-x. I was asking if it was necessary to use iron-x since i'm going to be claying my car then cutting and polishing the paint. My research suggests using iron-x will be beneficial. I wanted a professionals opinion before I purchased it.
I think that what the iron-x didn't remove it loosened up because it didn't take much for the clay to get everything smooth.
I loaned it to my brother and never got it back (surprise) so I have another bottle coming this week. I can't tell you it is a must have, but for me it is. I want the best possible results when I spend that much time and effort doing a full detail.
Todd
I would venture to guess that most people who don't do paint correction professionally probably don't use Iron X as a part of the decon process. IMO its one of those things that makes it a better quality job. If you don't have a white car most people would probably never even think about it. I assure you its a worth while step you should include in your arsenal. The white Mustang I just finished was really bad, I actually had to iron x it twice. There was iron sucked up under the trunk lid. After using Iron X the car was "whiter", it didn't have that yellow tint to it.
No amount of polishing/compounding is going to all that stuff out. Its embedded in the clear coat. And what does come out is going to wreck the clear coat when you are polishing. You basically have little pieces of metal rolling around under your buffing pad at 3000-4000 OPM. No good can come of that.
I am basically echoing what has been said by Rare and others. I am going to do a thread on that Mustang later today and you can see how important a proper decon is.
I am very happy to see this thread is still going. A big thanks to Jeff for getting it started and introducing me to something that I have become very passionate about.
No amount of polishing/compounding is going to all that stuff out. Its embedded in the clear coat. And what does come out is going to wreck the clear coat when you are polishing. You basically have little pieces of metal rolling around under your buffing pad at 3000-4000 OPM. No good can come of that.
I am basically echoing what has been said by Rare and others. I am going to do a thread on that Mustang later today and you can see how important a proper decon is.
I am very happy to see this thread is still going. A big thanks to Jeff for getting it started and introducing me to something that I have become very passionate about.
Can't wait to see it. I love detailing threads on white cars. I just love white. I ordered some iron-x from autogeek. It looks like i'll have to find something else to do for the next few days.
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, MO
Couple questions:
1. Just got a Camaro with PPG paint (4 coats of clear then wet sanded 2 years ago), and have found a few runs. Is there any way to reduce the appearance of the paint runs by buffing etc?
2. Any idea if PPG paint is soft/hard clear coat?
3. The car has been sitting for awhile and as a result has pollen, dust, etc sitting on the paint currently, how would you go about prepping the surface to reduce swirls before washing? Just a power washer, 2 bucket method with a mitt?
4. There are two areas of what seems to be previous light buffer marks in a line (not a hologram); should I just use my PC with M105 orange pad then M205 White, or something else?
Sorry for all of the questions!
1. Just got a Camaro with PPG paint (4 coats of clear then wet sanded 2 years ago), and have found a few runs. Is there any way to reduce the appearance of the paint runs by buffing etc?
2. Any idea if PPG paint is soft/hard clear coat?
3. The car has been sitting for awhile and as a result has pollen, dust, etc sitting on the paint currently, how would you go about prepping the surface to reduce swirls before washing? Just a power washer, 2 bucket method with a mitt?
4. There are two areas of what seems to be previous light buffer marks in a line (not a hologram); should I just use my PC with M105 orange pad then M205 White, or something else?
Sorry for all of the questions!
Couple questions:
1. Just got a Camaro with PPG paint (4 coats of clear then wet sanded 2 years ago), and have found a few runs. Is there any way to reduce the appearance of the paint runs by buffing etc?
2. Any idea if PPG paint is soft/hard clear coat?
3. The car has been sitting for awhile and as a result has pollen, dust, etc sitting on the paint currently, how would you go about prepping the surface to reduce swirls before washing? Just a power washer, 2 bucket method with a mitt?
4. There are two areas of what seems to be previous light buffer marks in a line (not a hologram); should I just use my PC with M105 orange pad then M205 White, or something else?
Sorry for all of the questions!
1. Just got a Camaro with PPG paint (4 coats of clear then wet sanded 2 years ago), and have found a few runs. Is there any way to reduce the appearance of the paint runs by buffing etc?
2. Any idea if PPG paint is soft/hard clear coat?
3. The car has been sitting for awhile and as a result has pollen, dust, etc sitting on the paint currently, how would you go about prepping the surface to reduce swirls before washing? Just a power washer, 2 bucket method with a mitt?
4. There are two areas of what seems to be previous light buffer marks in a line (not a hologram); should I just use my PC with M105 orange pad then M205 White, or something else?
Sorry for all of the questions!
2. It depends on what clear it is. PPG makes several different clears, from a shop line all the way to a poly urethane which is stupid hard, I just did a car with that kind.
3. Pressure washer, presoak w/ Dawn/APC/good car shampoo(to help with making suds), wash 2 bucket method, dry, Iron X, rinse/wash, clay/nanoskin, dry. Since its been sitting IMO the decon is very important in this situation.
4. There's no way of knowing without seeing a pic and even then it we can't say for sure because we don't know how hard the clear is.
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Verdad Gallardo Referencing your #4 question could you post a pic of the scratch? It's always best to start with the least aggressive combo first. Since the car has been repainted I would probably try a white pad and M205 first. If that doesn't take it out then move to the orange pad and M105. If that doesn't take it out there's a few other options after that. As I'm sure you know if its really deep it will be better to leave alone unless you know how much clear was put on the car.
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Followed this thread until about page 79 and then got sent out of town for work for weeks.
I just got a set of Weld RTS black center wheels. What is the proper way to care for these wheels? I've heard that these are not coated wheels but I can't confirm that.
I also have no clue have to clean/protect the black anodizing in the center. Anyone have advice?
I just got a set of Weld RTS black center wheels. What is the proper way to care for these wheels? I've heard that these are not coated wheels but I can't confirm that.
I also have no clue have to clean/protect the black anodizing in the center. Anyone have advice?
Followed this thread until about page 79 and then got sent out of town for work for weeks.
I just got a set of Weld RTS black center wheels. What is the proper way to care for these wheels? I've heard that these are not coated wheels but I can't confirm that.
I also have no clue have to clean/protect the black anodizing in the center. Anyone have advice?
I just got a set of Weld RTS black center wheels. What is the proper way to care for these wheels? I've heard that these are not coated wheels but I can't confirm that.
I also have no clue have to clean/protect the black anodizing in the center. Anyone have advice?
If the wheels are not coated, I'd highly recommend looking into a coating option like Cquartz, Opti Guard, or Gtechniq.
Just my $.02
Aside from Opti-Coat (nervous about buying it and trying to apply it due to the fact that I've heard its pretty difficult to get right?) What is a good sealant/nano that will give the same water sheeting Hydrophobic properties and one that is not extremely difficult to apply.
I've got some Jetseal 109 that I have not used yet ( I need to find a weekend where I can get the car in some shade and start polishing ) I've heard Jetseal will bead tightly and allow water to sheet if it's applied, let dry/cure then applied again? But longevity is terrible.
Collinite Brand (not sure on any models/numbers) I've heard extremely great things about them, what LSP is good?
I've got some Jetseal 109 that I have not used yet ( I need to find a weekend where I can get the car in some shade and start polishing ) I've heard Jetseal will bead tightly and allow water to sheet if it's applied, let dry/cure then applied again? But longevity is terrible.
Collinite Brand (not sure on any models/numbers) I've heard extremely great things about them, what LSP is good?
Aside from Opti-Coat (nervous about buying it and trying to apply it due to the fact that I've heard its pretty difficult to get right?) What is a good sealant/nano that will give the same water sheeting Hydrophobic properties and one that is not extremely difficult to apply.
I've got some Jetseal 109 that I have not used yet ( I need to find a weekend where I can get the car in some shade and start polishing ) I've heard Jetseal will bead tightly and allow water to sheet if it's applied, let dry/cure then applied again? But longevity is terrible.
Collinite Brand (not sure on any models/numbers) I've heard extremely great things about them, what LSP is good?
I've got some Jetseal 109 that I have not used yet ( I need to find a weekend where I can get the car in some shade and start polishing ) I've heard Jetseal will bead tightly and allow water to sheet if it's applied, let dry/cure then applied again? But longevity is terrible.
Collinite Brand (not sure on any models/numbers) I've heard extremely great things about them, what LSP is good?
Jetseal is only a decent product imho. Shine is nice, but durability is average.
Can't go wrong with Collinite 845. There's a reason it's been around since the stone age!
You could also try....
Wolf's Chemicals Body Wrap/Hard Body - Easily two of my favoirte products in my arsenal.
http://www.wolfschemicals.com/en/ter...----hard-body-
Last edited by Rare96LT1Formula; Jun 4, 2013 at 01:51 PM.
Was going to ask you about this Jason... Do they sell a "kit with a 6 inch pad & a 3 inch pad? Heard stories about marring, but honestly, it wouldn't bother me because if I were ever going to use one, I'd have every intention of polishing afterwards.
I have read the medium grade can cause marring also. I believe on AG they say that and suggest going with the fine grade if you aren't planning on polishing. I've heard this about the towels, wash mitts and pads.
I didn't notice any marring when I used it on the Charger I did but that paint is pretty hard.
Try cleaning the wheels with the most gentle options first. Honestly, if they're not bad, try washing them down with a boar's hair brush and some regular wash shampoo diluted 1oz/gallon of water. If that doesn't work, step up to an all purpose cleaner, if that doesn't work, I'd hit it with a Sonax/Adam's DWC.
If the wheels are not coated, I'd highly recommend looking into a coating option like Cquartz, Opti Guard, or Gtechniq.
Just my $.02
If the wheels are not coated, I'd highly recommend looking into a coating option like Cquartz, Opti Guard, or Gtechniq.
Just my $.02
We have a number of trees that drop the spinning flyer things. If they sit on the car too long they leave an outline of their shape. Standard soap/water car wash doesn't fully remove the outline but when I had some body work done the guy used some type of white wipe that took the outline right off. Any idea what type of wipe this was?