Ask a Professional Detailer
Adam has taken a lot of guess work and fear out of paint correction. I agree that it's not geared towards heavy correction, someone wanting to do it professionally or as a side job.
With everything being color coded it takes a lot of the guess work out of it. I year or so ago I was going to order his PC kit but then I found this thread. I'm a little more serious than most about paint correction so I held off buying anything for a while till I learned some.
With everything being color coded it takes a lot of the guess work out of it. I year or so ago I was going to order his PC kit but then I found this thread. I'm a little more serious than most about paint correction so I held off buying anything for a while till I learned some.
Also quite true. Two different markets out there and Adams fills one of them nicely.
I got my Rupes this morning and started using it tonight. I now completely understand what all the hype was about. This thing is amazing! It is so much more powerful than the PC and cuts so much faster. It will pay for itself after the job that I'm doing now.
Last edited by LilJayV10; Mar 5, 2013 at 03:38 AM.
Both. I did not see any draw backs using the 5 inch plate. With 21mm of throw sometimes the 6inch is just too big. Hell sometimes the the 5 inch plate is too much. The PC is nice to have when working in small areas.
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Ya it is a little smaller, i wanted it because of the size/ability to get in tight spaces and price 85$. Sucks its not that powerful but i dont plan on using it a ton.
I'd probably just run a 3" or 4" backing plate on your PC if you needed to get into tighter spots, that'd definitely be a cheaper thing to do since you already have a PC if you can.
I'd probably just run a 3" or 4" backing plate on your PC if you needed to get into tighter spots, that'd definitely be a cheaper thing to do since you already have a PC if you can.
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I find it a bit easier to navigate than the 6" plate/pad combo. Same impressions as you though, insanely efficient machine - well worth the price of admission!
Polished out a third gen F-body for a client last week. Two step process, took barely half of a day for the entire compounding and polishing stages! I normally work slow and meticulously, but I find that the Rupes allows me to speed up my process while not sacrificing quality. I honestly felt a little bad about charging him my "usual" two step price
FANTASTIC machine. Haven't touched my Makita 9227 since my Rupes arrived, and frankly, I haven't missed it one bit!
Jeff takes quite a bit of time to offer his advice for free on this forum. Let's keep him from having to answer the same questions multiple times.
Just thought of something totally randomly and don't believe its been discussed in here yet.
On a daily driven car thats been corrected (assume correctly) and sealed, is there a reason to clay before the sealant is removed/worn off?
Would claying remove the sealant?
On my car I plan to clay when I remove the sealant before reapplying, but wondering if its worth doing at all in between?
Especially if you use one of those long lasting sealants.
On a daily driven car thats been corrected (assume correctly) and sealed, is there a reason to clay before the sealant is removed/worn off?
Would claying remove the sealant?
On my car I plan to clay when I remove the sealant before reapplying, but wondering if its worth doing at all in between?
Especially if you use one of those long lasting sealants.
Just thought of something totally randomly and don't believe its been discussed in here yet.
On a daily driven car thats been corrected (assume correctly) and sealed, is there a reason to clay before the sealant is removed/worn off?
Would claying remove the sealant?
On my car I plan to clay when I remove the sealant before reapplying, but wondering if its worth doing at all in between?
Especially if you use one of those long lasting sealants.
On a daily driven car thats been corrected (assume correctly) and sealed, is there a reason to clay before the sealant is removed/worn off?
Would claying remove the sealant?
On my car I plan to clay when I remove the sealant before reapplying, but wondering if its worth doing at all in between?
Especially if you use one of those long lasting sealants.
Ya it is a little smaller, i wanted it because of the size/ability to get in tight spaces and price 85$. Sucks its not that powerful but i dont plan on using it a ton.
I'd probably just run a 3" or 4" backing plate on your PC if you needed to get into tighter spots, that'd definitely be a cheaper thing to do since you already have a PC if you can.
I'd probably just run a 3" or 4" backing plate on your PC if you needed to get into tighter spots, that'd definitely be a cheaper thing to do since you already have a PC if you can.
Paint correction(done correctly) is an involved process. This thread has pretty much everything you need to know about paint correction and detailing( I hate the word with a passion)
A lot of people over simplify paint correction because they don't know what is involved to do it correctly.
Take some time and read the thread, it will take a while. Take some notes, go back and read it again. It will take a while to grasp everything and even longer to perfect it.
There are many people here willing to help as long as you put the time in.
I'm not trying to discourage you but encourage you. If you find it's too time consuming or expensive try to find someone local who does it professionally. Be aware there are many hacks out there that think they know what they are doing but don't and will normally make it worse.
Guys I'm so excited about about the Rupes, M100 and MF pad combo I wanted to share a few pics from the SUV I am correcting this week. Black 06' Denali. Clear coat is HARD. PC, MF and M105 wouldn't touch it. Two passes with the combo mentioned prior and you get near LSP results. This stuff cuts so fast and finishes down excellent. The pics look good but you should see it after a LC white pad and M205.
This combo is pretty aggressive and probably shouldn't be tried by someone just starting out. IMO these are rotary type results with a D/A. I also think even with a D/A polisher this combo could have you seeing primer if you aren't careful. Notice the tape across the character line above the fender. Respect the M100! Tape is cheap. Paint is not.
The halogen light is in the same place in the photo, same spot on the door. Notice the ladder and light stand is in the same spot. This is about as good as it gets for before/after pics. I wiped it down with Eraser to ensure there was no filling of any scratches.
This combo is pretty aggressive and probably shouldn't be tried by someone just starting out. IMO these are rotary type results with a D/A. I also think even with a D/A polisher this combo could have you seeing primer if you aren't careful. Notice the tape across the character line above the fender. Respect the M100! Tape is cheap. Paint is not.
The halogen light is in the same place in the photo, same spot on the door. Notice the ladder and light stand is in the same spot. This is about as good as it gets for before/after pics. I wiped it down with Eraser to ensure there was no filling of any scratches.
Last edited by LilJayV10; Mar 5, 2013 at 03:56 AM.
Just thought of something totally randomly and don't believe its been discussed in here yet.
On a daily driven car thats been corrected (assume correctly) and sealed, is there a reason to clay before the sealant is removed/worn off?
Would claying remove the sealant?
On my car I plan to clay when I remove the sealant before reapplying, but wondering if its worth doing at all in between?
Especially if you use one of those long lasting sealants.
On a daily driven car thats been corrected (assume correctly) and sealed, is there a reason to clay before the sealant is removed/worn off?
Would claying remove the sealant?
On my car I plan to clay when I remove the sealant before reapplying, but wondering if its worth doing at all in between?
Especially if you use one of those long lasting sealants.
I've used it on a few one step jobs, and each time my clients had thought the vehicle had been two stepped. It really does finish down LSP ready in many cases.
Easily one of my favorite Menzerna products. It cuts like a compound and finishes like a polish, I know that sounds a little cliche, but it really does. Menzerna has yet to let me down with any of their products. I'd be willing to bet Jeff has tried this one, how could he not?!
I've used it on a few one step jobs, and each time my clients had thought the vehicle had been two stepped. It really does finish down LSP ready in many cases.
I've used it on a few one step jobs, and each time my clients had thought the vehicle had been two stepped. It really does finish down LSP ready in many cases.
What pad are you using with the FG400? I think I'm going to pick some up this weekend.