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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 02:43 PM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by surfsideracing808
After polishing is it best to use a paint sealant and then a wax? Or just one or the other?
If you want to apply both, the sealant will have to be done first and allowed to cure for a good 6-12hrs before applying the wax.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 02:48 PM
  #342  
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Originally Posted by rcoers
Sorry if you have answered this before, but what pad would you use with 105? (I have PC DA). Have you ever used a wool pad?
Totally depends on the job and the car. Way too broad of a question. Its like asking what cam to go with but no info on the car or how its to be used.

Typically I'll use a Lake Country Orange or White pad with M105 or sometimes the Meguiars MF pads. If I use wool, its never on the DA, way to much marring. I'll use it with my rotary. I use wool all the time, but only when required as it is a very extreme method.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 02:51 PM
  #343  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Totally depends on the job and the car. Way too broad of a question. Its like asking what cam to go with but no info on the car or how its to be used.

Typically I'll use a Lake Country Orange or White pad with M105 or sometimes the Meguiars MF pads. If I use wool, its never on the DA, way to much marring. I'll use it with my rotary. I use wool all the time, but only when required as it is a very extreme method.
Thanks for the info. I have used both yellow and orange LC pads before - but have read that they tend to get too hot and become less effective after awhile. However, if you say a wool pad is bad news on DA then I'll definitely shy away from using one.

Another question - what the hell is a RID or RIDS?
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 03:02 PM
  #344  
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Originally Posted by rcoers
Thanks for the info. I have used both yellow and orange LC pads before - but have read that they tend to get too hot and become less effective after awhile. However, if you say a wool pad is bad news on DA then I'll definitely shy away from using one.

Another question - what the hell is a RID or RIDS?
Yellow pads are old tech. They get very hot and don't finish down well. I can get more cut and gloss out of an orange pad. I use the orange pad more than any other, definitely my most versatile pad. Never found them becoming less effective with time or wear.

RIDS are Random Isolated Deep Scratches. Different than swirl marks or typical washed induced marring. They are individual deeper scratches that don't fit the pattern of the surrounding swirls and lighter scratches. They are more time intensive to remove.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #345  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Yellow pads are old tech. They get very hot and don't finish down well. I can get more cut and gloss out of an orange pad. I use the orange pad more than any other, definitely my most versatile pad. Never found them becoming less effective with time or wear.

RIDS are Random Isolated Deep Scratches. Different than swirl marks or typical washed induced marring. They are individual deeper scratches that don't fit the pattern of the surrounding swirls and lighter scratches. They are more time intensive to remove.
I'm glad I've found some one else who is an avid user of the Lake Country Orange pad as I am. I've gotten some great results using it for many different variations and scenarios coupled with different compounds. I've found other detailers to complain about the fact how "stiff" the pad is. I don't have a problem with them at all honestly. Even over crazy body lines or contours. Then of course I am switching different pad sizes all the time to help combat that as well.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 05:49 PM
  #346  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Here is a good read on alcantara. Should answer your questions.


http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-d...ml#post1455020
Thank you sir!
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 11:19 AM
  #347  
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Go Fast- Any suggestions for removing dirt/grime/brake dust from the inside of the stock polished wheels? I am open to taking them off of the car obviously.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
Go Fast- Any suggestions for removing dirt/grime/brake dust from the inside of the stock polished wheels? I am open to taking them off of the car obviously.
Are they clear coated? You don't necessarily have to take them off unless you want to wax them.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #349  
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Originally Posted by ThirdgenTa
Are they clear coated? You don't necessarily have to take them off unless you want to wax them.
They're the stock 17" polished WS6 rims. If you look at my avatar closely, you can see them. I really would like to get the entire wheel spotless! Ordered a set of wheel woolies to help me out.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #350  
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Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
They're the stock 17" polished WS6 rims. If you look at my avatar closely, you can see them. I really would like to get the entire wheel spotless! Ordered a set of wheel woolies to help me out.
I have a Daytona Speedmaster wheel brush and Brown Royal wheel cleaner. Usually gets them spotless if you want help.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 05:57 PM
  #351  
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I've read this whole thread...great information and very generous of you to share all of this information.

I've got a few questions that I did not see asked...maybe because they are stupid...

1. I imagine there has to be other folks on this forum that have to wash their car at a self service auto wash place...any thoughts on how to make this work? Right now, I'm using the low pressure rinse, then the soapy brush, then the low pressure rinse, driving home, using a microfiber towel to get whatever water hasn't blown off, then using a detail spray on the whole car...am I committing a bunch of cardinal sins?

2. I didn't see any mention of those silicon "t" edge water blades for drying a car...is that because they are just awful to use?

3. Do you offer any kind of consultation service? Maybe someone sends you some cash through paypal and you give them a half hour telephone consultation so that they can come up with a good solution for keeping their car looking good without having to become a master detailer? If so, pm me because I'd like to do that.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 09:37 PM
  #352  
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What can I do to my calipers, rotors, and wheel well area? I have a black TA with the stock 17" polished rims and I always try to keep my car spotless, but the hideous brakes and wheel well area drive me crazy! I have a pic of my brakes but not of my wheel well, but its had 10 years on the road so think you will know what I'm talking about. Thanks for you time I really appreciate what you are doing here!!



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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 07:35 AM
  #353  
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BigBomber- I'd hit up Brakemotive if I were you. They're a sponspor here and you can find their add in the sponsor special section. $165 for all four drilled/slotted rotors and two sets of ceramic pads. Probably one of the best deals on this site imo. When you swap the brake rotors, you can remove your calipers and have them cleaned and powdercoated if you'd like (that's what I did, they're awesome!) Otherwise, you could always paint them yourself. That'll really sharpen up the wheel department.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 08:21 AM
  #354  
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Cool thanks for the info. I wanted to change those out anyway
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 04:38 PM
  #355  
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Here's one that hasn't been asked i don't believe. Do you ever use air fresheners? If so, what's a good leather smell one and any other good ones you've used?
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 04:41 PM
  #356  
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Originally Posted by theaccountant
I've read this whole thread...great information and very generous of you to share all of this information.

I've got a few questions that I did not see asked...maybe because they are stupid...

1. I imagine there has to be other folks on this forum that have to wash their car at a self service auto wash place...any thoughts on how to make this work? Right now, I'm using the low pressure rinse, then the soapy brush, then the low pressure rinse, driving home, using a microfiber towel to get whatever water hasn't blown off, then using a detail spray on the whole car...am I committing a bunch of cardinal sins?

2. I didn't see any mention of those silicon "t" edge water blades for drying a car...is that because they are just awful to use?

3. Do you offer any kind of consultation service? Maybe someone sends you some cash through paypal and you give them a half hour telephone consultation so that they can come up with a good solution for keeping their car looking good without having to become a master detailer? If so, pm me because I'd like to do that.
Using the soap brush at a drive-in car wash is one of the biggest no-no's ever. I would invest in micro fiber wash mits and towels, wash it by hand, and use the drive-in for it's rinse only. Also, dry it before you drive home. Once you've driven it it's already gotten dust and dirt on it again, even though you may not see it so by hand drying once you get home your rubbing those contaminants into your paint.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 05:28 PM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
ONR is a GREAT product when used correctly. Its not designed for severely dirty cars, but for what you described it will work fine. Never used the Ultima stuff, but there is a reason that ONR is a staple in every REAL pro's arsenal.

Glad I can help you guys out
What do you mean by used correctly? You say it's not good for severely dirty cars but is that all? What is the "correct" way to use it?
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:16 PM
  #358  
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Op has disappeared. What do you recommend for a clay and lube?
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #359  
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Originally Posted by dabest09
Op has disappeared. What do you recommend for a clay and lube?
Nope haven't disappeared, just finished a 65 hour week. I will try to get to everyone's questions tonight if I have time or tomorrow evening.
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 10:39 PM
  #360  
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Originally Posted by Trendkiller Z
Using the soap brush at a drive-in car wash is one of the biggest no-no's ever. I would invest in micro fiber wash mits and towels, wash it by hand, and use the drive-in for it's rinse only. Also, dry it before you drive home. Once you've driven it it's already gotten dust and dirt on it again, even though you may not see it so by hand drying once you get home your rubbing those contaminants into your paint.
I figured that about the brush, though I was hoping it wasn't true...problem is that there are huge signs in the wash bays that say "no buckets" and "no hand washing"...but that's probably because they don't want people cheaping out by going there and just using the water...maybe if I make it so that I've got money in the meter the whole time they'd leave me alone.
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