Ask a Professional Detailer
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: illinois
So i get a call from a guy wanting to know if i can clean up his semi. Without know what i was getting into i said yes because he is a family friend. Upon arrival i see its much worse than i ever anticipated, and im not sure i can tackle it being a noob with the pc. But i do a test spot and see its possible and start on it. Im looking for any advice you may have, different techniques, different polishes to help finish this the best as possible, different combinations. Basically im asking for your advice on the matter, and then what you would use wouldnt use?
Side not im using 105 right now with a yellow pad on some parts, and a orange pad on some parts. Its drying up super fast and will not stay lubricated. To taked it off im having to wipe it with a damp mf towel. Took me about 3 hours to get this far. The lines in the second pic are reflections of the shed door that was closed and one that was open just for clarification.
Side not im using 105 right now with a yellow pad on some parts, and a orange pad on some parts. Its drying up super fast and will not stay lubricated. To taked it off im having to wipe it with a damp mf towel. Took me about 3 hours to get this far. The lines in the second pic are reflections of the shed door that was closed and one that was open just for clarification.
This is probably the best advice you'll get. I had a cheap $35 Advance Auto "buffer" that didn't do much at all for me. I believe it actually contributed to amount of paint correction I now need, which is totally my fault. I've now been slowly working at correcting the paint but it's definitely a time consuming process. The results however are amazing when you're using the proper tools and technique. The porter cable and M105/M205 combo coupled with a 5" backing plate and Lake County 5.5" flat pads have been a real solid combo for me. Not too difficult to work and a great finish!
Hey Jeff. I just acquired a 1998 Cadillac Eldorado. It has chrome wheels and I'll have to roll on those through the Michigan winter. Do you have any idea if they will corrode or not? And what could I do to protect them if they do corrode? Just rinse them off every now and then?
This is basically what it looks like:
This is basically what it looks like:
Hey Jeff. I just acquired a 1998 Cadillac Eldorado. It has chrome wheels and I'll have to roll on those through the Michigan winter. Do you have any idea if they will corrode or not? And what could I do to protect them if they do corrode? Just rinse them off every now and then?
This is basically what it looks like:
This is basically what it looks like:
With all the salt on the roads, the insides likely will if they aren't already. For the faces, just use a good chrome polish once a month (because of the harsh elements) and seal them with a wax or sealant.
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Speaking of windows, my glass has scratches in it, not deep but you can see them in the light at certain angles. Is there any way to get those out or reduce them? It looks like the previous owner was trying to get something off the windshield with a flathead screwdriver. Rubbing compound maybe?
Speaking of windows, my glass has scratches in it, not deep but you can see them in the light at certain angles. Is there any way to get those out or reduce them? It looks like the previous owner was trying to get something off the windshield with a flathead screwdriver. Rubbing compound maybe?
Stoner invisible glass and a quality microfiber. You will never use anything else, trust me 
For the scratches or wiper marks, I have used a lake county foam pad made for glass with Zaino Z12 with a porter cable DA with nice results. Link below is the pad I used.
http://www.autogeek.net/glass-polishing-pad-5inch.html
For the scratches or wiper marks, I have used a lake county foam pad made for glass with Zaino Z12 with a porter cable DA with nice results. Link below is the pad I used.
http://www.autogeek.net/glass-polishing-pad-5inch.html
Can you explain how you say you do paint correction by hand on the areas like the front of a trans am bumper with all the curves and tight spots?
And exactly how many pads do you think I would use on my car with the 105/205? I don't know how dirty they should be before I put on a new pad.
Finally, can you tell me exactly what I need to do to clean the pads after I use them. I heard dawn dish soap can make the velcro peel off from the pad and stiff bristles can ruin the pads.
Sorry for all the questions lol I know you're busy.
Can't wait to use my blackfire wet diamond after I correct my paint! Got it 50% off at the sale on autogeek
And exactly how many pads do you think I would use on my car with the 105/205? I don't know how dirty they should be before I put on a new pad.
Finally, can you tell me exactly what I need to do to clean the pads after I use them. I heard dawn dish soap can make the velcro peel off from the pad and stiff bristles can ruin the pads.
Sorry for all the questions lol I know you're busy.
Can't wait to use my blackfire wet diamond after I correct my paint! Got it 50% off at the sale on autogeek
Stoner invisible glass and a quality microfiber. You will never use anything else, trust me
For the scratches or wiper marks, I have used a lake county foam pad made for glass with Zaino Z12 with a porter cable DA with nice results. Link below is the pad I used.
http://www.autogeek.net/glass-polishing-pad-5inch.html
For the scratches or wiper marks, I have used a lake county foam pad made for glass with Zaino Z12 with a porter cable DA with nice results. Link below is the pad I used.
http://www.autogeek.net/glass-polishing-pad-5inch.html
I will purchase the Z12 and try one of my own buffing pads first. 
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 285
Likes: 0
From: Mission tx
Stoner invisible glass and a quality microfiber. You will never use anything else, trust me
For the scratches or wiper marks, I have used a lake county foam pad made for glass with Zaino Z12 with a porter cable DA with nice results. Link below is the pad I used.
http://www.autogeek.net/glass-polishing-pad-5inch.html
For the scratches or wiper marks, I have used a lake county foam pad made for glass with Zaino Z12 with a porter cable DA with nice results. Link below is the pad I used.
http://www.autogeek.net/glass-polishing-pad-5inch.html
here's a good one. whats a non-bodyman fix for scratched paint where the door glass, b-pillar, and t-tops meet. a couple scratches from having to force entry due to locking the doors with keys on the seat lol.
Here is a question for you. Your answer might be 'body shop time'.
My car got keyed from the front of the passenger door, over the door handle, and almost all the way to the rear bumper on the quarter panel. At the time I had a high insurance deductible and the insurance adjuster low balled the estimate. So I just let it ride for the time being. This past summer I purchased some touch up paint and decided to repair this myself. I knew from the get-go that it would not be a 100% repair, but it would look a lot better than what it did. I expected something along the lines of a 75% repair- meaning it would be barely visible anymore.
My process consisted of applying wax and grease remover, apply touch up paint, wet sand touch up paint until it was flat with the OEM paint, then use polishing compound and wax when done. I did this process once, and then did it again a few weeks later to try and get the scratch a little better. I would build the scratch up each time to fill it. It went from a deep scratch, to a barely visible scratch that could not be felt with a fingernail any more.
Do you feel as though I can remedy this scratch any more? Or is this as good as it will get without getting a body shop involved?
Are there any 'detailing' tricks that could help me? i.e. blend the paint into the scratch with a buffer and some product?
Thanks
My car got keyed from the front of the passenger door, over the door handle, and almost all the way to the rear bumper on the quarter panel. At the time I had a high insurance deductible and the insurance adjuster low balled the estimate. So I just let it ride for the time being. This past summer I purchased some touch up paint and decided to repair this myself. I knew from the get-go that it would not be a 100% repair, but it would look a lot better than what it did. I expected something along the lines of a 75% repair- meaning it would be barely visible anymore.
My process consisted of applying wax and grease remover, apply touch up paint, wet sand touch up paint until it was flat with the OEM paint, then use polishing compound and wax when done. I did this process once, and then did it again a few weeks later to try and get the scratch a little better. I would build the scratch up each time to fill it. It went from a deep scratch, to a barely visible scratch that could not be felt with a fingernail any more.
Do you feel as though I can remedy this scratch any more? Or is this as good as it will get without getting a body shop involved?
Are there any 'detailing' tricks that could help me? i.e. blend the paint into the scratch with a buffer and some product?
Thanks
Here is a question for you. Your answer might be 'body shop time'.
My car got keyed from the front of the passenger door, over the door handle, and almost all the way to the rear bumper on the quarter panel. At the time I had a high insurance deductible and the insurance adjuster low balled the estimate. So I just let it ride for the time being. This past summer I purchased some touch up paint and decided to repair this myself. I knew from the get-go that it would not be a 100% repair, but it would look a lot better than what it did. I expected something along the lines of a 75% repair- meaning it would be barely visible anymore.
My process consisted of applying wax and grease remover, apply touch up paint, wet sand touch up paint until it was flat with the OEM paint, then use polishing compound and wax when done. I did this process once, and then did it again a few weeks later to try and get the scratch a little better. I would build the scratch up each time to fill it. It went from a deep scratch, to a barely visible scratch that could not be felt with a fingernail any more.
Do you feel as though I can remedy this scratch any more? Or is this as good as it will get without getting a body shop involved?
Are there any 'detailing' tricks that could help me? i.e. blend the paint into the scratch with a buffer and some product?
Thanks
My car got keyed from the front of the passenger door, over the door handle, and almost all the way to the rear bumper on the quarter panel. At the time I had a high insurance deductible and the insurance adjuster low balled the estimate. So I just let it ride for the time being. This past summer I purchased some touch up paint and decided to repair this myself. I knew from the get-go that it would not be a 100% repair, but it would look a lot better than what it did. I expected something along the lines of a 75% repair- meaning it would be barely visible anymore.
My process consisted of applying wax and grease remover, apply touch up paint, wet sand touch up paint until it was flat with the OEM paint, then use polishing compound and wax when done. I did this process once, and then did it again a few weeks later to try and get the scratch a little better. I would build the scratch up each time to fill it. It went from a deep scratch, to a barely visible scratch that could not be felt with a fingernail any more.
Do you feel as though I can remedy this scratch any more? Or is this as good as it will get without getting a body shop involved?
Are there any 'detailing' tricks that could help me? i.e. blend the paint into the scratch with a buffer and some product?
Thanks
I don't know if I have many existing pictures. I can take a few 'after' shots if you wish. It is extremely tough to capture this on the car since the car is white. I'll try and snap some photos tonight although it gets dark out soon here now. If not, I will have to wait until the weekend.