Ask a Professional Detailer
here's one more in the daylight around 430pm today, just missed the sun, I could only imagine what I could get to with 40-50 hours. Thanks again for all the help and keeping the thread going!
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 535
Likes: 0
From: SC
GoFast.. i have a c5 vette and many people know that their clear coats are horribly hard i did test spots with both my pc and Flex D/A and am not happy with the amount of time i have to spend in one particular area. im thinking about buying a rotary and i know the consequences of using it incorrectly.
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
They are Fikse FM10s. I just bought them, and they had painted centres. I used paint stripper to take the paint off. They are slightly etched and wetsanding takes the marks off, but I would like to avoid going through this (long!) process on 4 wheels. I was hoping there is a product that might get rid of the wetsanding.
Etching:
Left spoke after a sloppy wetsanding job:
Etching:
Left spoke after a sloppy wetsanding job:
Last edited by Fish-man; Oct 29, 2011 at 09:11 PM.
Just wondering a few things:
1- have you ever used "Refinish Restorer" on exterior plastic? If you read Avalanche forums, you'll see a lot of talk. I Have used it on a set of old nasty looking Avalanche BED COVERS... they look like new now (except for a ton of scratches) and have for a year.
2- Engine compartment... is there a product that can be used to make stuff look clean without having to scrub or add any 303/etc? Don't care if its shiny.
2.5... Engine compartment/undercarriage painted parts... my car has dirt/grime on the painted parts and seems anything I use to clean it REMOVES PAINT. What do I do?
Thanks in advance.
1- have you ever used "Refinish Restorer" on exterior plastic? If you read Avalanche forums, you'll see a lot of talk. I Have used it on a set of old nasty looking Avalanche BED COVERS... they look like new now (except for a ton of scratches) and have for a year.
2- Engine compartment... is there a product that can be used to make stuff look clean without having to scrub or add any 303/etc? Don't care if its shiny.
2.5... Engine compartment/undercarriage painted parts... my car has dirt/grime on the painted parts and seems anything I use to clean it REMOVES PAINT. What do I do?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Fish-man; Nov 5, 2011 at 08:22 AM.
Got a question for you... Can I use Meguiars #7 on top of (or below) Autoglym SRP? I have an extra bottle of the stuff being unused. Would I want to use it with SRP at all? Currently when I wash the car, I do a 2 bucket wash, then a layer of SRP, then a layer of NXT 2.0 paste w/foam applicator. All of this is by hand, since I don't have an orbital/rotary.
Additionally, should I be using NXT 2.0 paste on top of SRP, since it is a cleaner wax?
Edit: I just looked into it a bit more, and found that Collinite #845 works well with SRP. Think I'll buy some of that and ditch the NXT 2.0.
Try scrubbing it with a stiff nylon brush and Simple Green, then try a claybar, first. If that fails, I would recommend soaking them in a plastic safe paint stripper, like Super Clean Degreaser. You're gonna need A LOT of it though for something the size of a front wheel well liner. It'd be more cost[/time] effective to simply replace it with a used non-painted one from here in the Parts Classifieds.
Additionally, should I be using NXT 2.0 paste on top of SRP, since it is a cleaner wax?
Edit: I just looked into it a bit more, and found that Collinite #845 works well with SRP. Think I'll buy some of that and ditch the NXT 2.0.
Try scrubbing it with a stiff nylon brush and Simple Green, then try a claybar, first. If that fails, I would recommend soaking them in a plastic safe paint stripper, like Super Clean Degreaser. You're gonna need A LOT of it though for something the size of a front wheel well liner. It'd be more cost[/time] effective to simply replace it with a used non-painted one from here in the Parts Classifieds.
Last edited by ZexGX; Oct 31, 2011 at 12:00 PM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Got a question for you... Can I use Meguiars #7 on top of (or below) Autoglym SRP? I have an extra bottle of the stuff being unused. Would I want to use it with SRP at all? Currently when I wash the car, I do a 2 bucket wash, then a layer of SRP, then a layer of NXT 2.0 paste w/foam applicator. All of this is by hand, since I don't have an orbital/rotary.
Additionally, should I be using NXT 2.0 paste on top of SRP, since it is a cleaner wax?
Edit: I just looked into it a bit more, and found that Collinite #845 works well with SRP. Think I'll buy some of that and ditch the NXT 2.0.
Try scrubbing it with a stiff nylon brush and Simple Green, then try a claybar, first. If that fails, I would recommend soaking them in a plastic safe paint stripper, like Super Clean Degreaser. You're gonna need A LOT of it though for something the size of a front wheel well liner. It'd be more cost[/time] effective to simply replace it with a used non-painted one from here in the Parts Classifieds.
Additionally, should I be using NXT 2.0 paste on top of SRP, since it is a cleaner wax?
Edit: I just looked into it a bit more, and found that Collinite #845 works well with SRP. Think I'll buy some of that and ditch the NXT 2.0.
Try scrubbing it with a stiff nylon brush and Simple Green, then try a claybar, first. If that fails, I would recommend soaking them in a plastic safe paint stripper, like Super Clean Degreaser. You're gonna need A LOT of it though for something the size of a front wheel well liner. It'd be more cost[/time] effective to simply replace it with a used non-painted one from here in the Parts Classifieds.
Some questions, when you have some time of course Jeff!
What 5.5" LC Flat pad is suggested for Menzerna 85RD? (I've heard both white + blk suggested)
Any suggested products I could apply AFTER the 85RD to preserve the nice new finish?
What 5.5" LC Flat pad is suggested for Menzerna 85RD? (I've heard both white + blk suggested)
Any suggested products I could apply AFTER the 85RD to preserve the nice new finish?
GoFast.. i have a c5 vette and many people know that their clear coats are horribly hard i did test spots with both my pc and Flex D/A and am not happy with the amount of time i have to spend in one particular area. im thinking about buying a rotary and i know the consequences of using it incorrectly.
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
GoFast.. i have a c5 vette and many people know that their clear coats are horribly hard i did test spots with both my pc and Flex D/A and am not happy with the amount of time i have to spend in one particular area. im thinking about buying a rotary and i know the consequences of using it incorrectly.
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
so my question is what do i need to do different with the rotary compared to a PC/Flex? what technique works best in your eyes. i use adams polishes fwiw
Look into the Meguiars Microfiber Cutting disks and Meguiars Correction Compound (D300). These things eat through GM clear with ease. I've also found cleaning the pads with compressed air after each section not only cleans the pad better removing all traces of dust and build up, but fluffs the fibers up better to provide better cut. This is using compressed air over the brush method. I have done both and the results were the same, but once that pad got loaded up, it didn't cut as well.
I have no problems with GM Vette clears or any for that matter really. If the D300 doesn't provide the bite I'm looking for, I'll add a drop or two of M105 or just use 105 by itself.
This system really REALLY lives by the old saying, "LESS IS MORE". Two drops at the most is what I'll use after the pad is primed.
Hopefully my problem can be helped, if not Im close friends with a body guy who can help me out... regardless here we go
after years of neglect my front bumper has what appears to be permanent bug marks on the front bumper, and its dull...
what would the best method be to look it as good as possible without repainting it?
Second.... the owner that had the car before the guy I bought it from, let the car sit under a tree... and some sap go onto the paint
well where the sap sat for a period of time, the paint appears to be grey, if i rub it with my hand though, it doesnt appear that it ate through the clear/paint....
is there any way to get rid of these as well?
thanks again for the great thread
after years of neglect my front bumper has what appears to be permanent bug marks on the front bumper, and its dull...
what would the best method be to look it as good as possible without repainting it?
Second.... the owner that had the car before the guy I bought it from, let the car sit under a tree... and some sap go onto the paint
well where the sap sat for a period of time, the paint appears to be grey, if i rub it with my hand though, it doesnt appear that it ate through the clear/paint....
is there any way to get rid of these as well?
thanks again for the great thread
Ok guys I just got back from a week in Vegas for the SEMA show. I've got a long 10hr day tomorrow and on sunday I will get to everyones questions. Thanks for being patient guys!
***Sorry for the late replies guys! Its been crazy all the way up till SEMA, then the show itself and getting back home and answering dozens of emails, PMs, and voicemails. But I'm back.***
Speed 6 on the PC is where its at. Almost never use it below that speed. It really comes down to the technique, which you'll learn as you go. If the 105 is drying up you're working it a bit too long. You can keep working it but you'll need to mist it with some water to reactivate the abrasives. Don't use too much water and keep it in a small section.
Thank you for reading through the whole thing, I admire that. There is a LOT in here and I'm glad it was a help to you!
Don't think I have time to be a sales rep (although I seem to be an unofficial one lol), but I'm down for the hookup on some free stuff! Maybe an email to Porter Cable is in the cards....
A Lake Country Purple Foamed Wool would be the next step up. M105 on that will cut VERY well, but I'd recommend it on the rotary. It will cause a lot of micromarring on the PC. Beyond that, you'd need to wetsand then compound out with a twisted ply wool pad, but thats not for beginners.
You were working it too long and it dried up. Spritz it very lightly with water to reactivate it. I typically will work a 1'x1' section or maybe 18"x18" section. Good progress so far!
GoFast, I used m105, m205, and blackfire wet diamond with a PC on my hood today (worst swirling) and the swirls are gone and the paint looks great! Although there are still *a few* RIDS left. I'll get a sun picture tomorrow hopefully to show you how I did and you can see if there's room for improvement. I worked the m105 in pretty well this time although it was drying up. I had the speed on 6 which was probably the problem.
Post some pics! I seriously love this thread. Joined autopia and have spent countless hours reading and learing the trade. Jeff, I think you should probably contact Porter Cable and become a sales rep for them! I know I definitely took your advice and bought one, best $125 I ever spent. I want to learn the in's and out's of the PC then get a Flex/Rotary and further my skill set.
Conrad- what methods are you going to use to eliminate the RIDS?
Conrad- what methods are you going to use to eliminate the RIDS?
I will get pictures once the sun is out. The swirls were pretty bad, I'd say I got 80-85% correction. I didn't get before and afters of the hood but I will on the spoiler (next worse). I used a rotary on one side of the hood and the PC on the other side and I'd say I got the same results. Used the same pads.
For the RIDS, I'm not sure yet. Maybe I will get a wool pad and use the m105? I'm not sure. But there are very few of them and they don't bother me too much. Although I did notice that the RIDS that were "removed" were actually just hidden- I can still see them in the clear but they are not white, they are blended with the paint color. GoFast, any suggestions on that? I will get pictures soon.
For the RIDS, I'm not sure yet. Maybe I will get a wool pad and use the m105? I'm not sure. But there are very few of them and they don't bother me too much. Although I did notice that the RIDS that were "removed" were actually just hidden- I can still see them in the clear but they are not white, they are blended with the paint color. GoFast, any suggestions on that? I will get pictures soon.
did a little practice tonight with the 105/205 with orange pads on the PC. Just a few minutes to see. Did the roof since I will be cutting it out anyway for ttops so can only screw it up so much. The roof has a lot of scratches. I washed with dawn, dried with MF and then proceeded with the 105 after I primed the pads. I'm impressed how quickly the 105 took the easy scratches out. I think some of the deeper one's would need a wet sand.
before
after about 5-6 passes. Wasn't sure how long to work it. I was on speed 5. I primed the pad based on the instruction posted earlier in the post and then added a few drops to the pad to work an area about 1x2 on the roof. The 105 dried pretty quickly and I needed a wet MF to get it off. I then did the 205.
before
after about 5-6 passes. Wasn't sure how long to work it. I was on speed 5. I primed the pad based on the instruction posted earlier in the post and then added a few drops to the pad to work an area about 1x2 on the roof. The 105 dried pretty quickly and I needed a wet MF to get it off. I then did the 205.
Jeff seriously deserves some free stuff from meguiars and porter cable. LOL
___
Could you check out my thread again? Got some good correction pictures, I want to see how you would judge it.
Thanks in advance 
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...black-car.html
___
Could you check out my thread again? Got some good correction pictures, I want to see how you would judge it.
Thanks in advance https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...black-car.html
Want to petition them on my behalf?
I'm cool with that.I will check out your thread again Conrad and give my thoughts on it.
Never painted an engine block so not sure on that one...
The OEM lenses I believe are $200+. Cheap ebay crap ones are < $150 for a pair, but usually have alignment issues. I charge less than 1 OEM light to repair and seal the factory ones.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: Houston
GoFast,
Thank you for this thread. I have been hand detailing my cars for 10 years and my elbow isn't what it used to be. I have wanted to get a buffer for some time but was very confused about the options until I read this thread. I read the entire thread and took notes, so hopefully you don't feel like you've answered these questions already.
Question #1
For plastic/vinyl trim outside the car you recommended Black WOW, 303 Aerospace, or Zaino Z18. What do you recommend for plastic/vinyl on the interior of the car? I noticed that Zaino Z14 is for plastics but "Not for use on porous or textured plastic surfaces, or any vinyl". Is there a product that can do it all?
Question #2:
Iron X comes in many sizes, from 50 ml to 5 liter. How much do I need to decontaminate a Nissan Pathfinder? Should I use the Iron X soap, paste, or spray?
UPDATE: I used one 500 ml spray bottle to decontaminate the entire Nissan Pathfinder. I'm not sure if I will be told I wasted product, but it seemed like the right amount.
Question #3:
What is your definition of "paint correction"?
Thanks for all of your help.
Thank you for this thread. I have been hand detailing my cars for 10 years and my elbow isn't what it used to be. I have wanted to get a buffer for some time but was very confused about the options until I read this thread. I read the entire thread and took notes, so hopefully you don't feel like you've answered these questions already.
Question #1
For plastic/vinyl trim outside the car you recommended Black WOW, 303 Aerospace, or Zaino Z18. What do you recommend for plastic/vinyl on the interior of the car? I noticed that Zaino Z14 is for plastics but "Not for use on porous or textured plastic surfaces, or any vinyl". Is there a product that can do it all?
Question #2:
Iron X comes in many sizes, from 50 ml to 5 liter. How much do I need to decontaminate a Nissan Pathfinder? Should I use the Iron X soap, paste, or spray?
UPDATE: I used one 500 ml spray bottle to decontaminate the entire Nissan Pathfinder. I'm not sure if I will be told I wasted product, but it seemed like the right amount.
Question #3:
What is your definition of "paint correction"?
Thanks for all of your help.
Last edited by NewlyTA'd; Nov 13, 2011 at 07:46 AM. Reason: update with additional information
Banned
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 953
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
I was looking at an ebay set. Are you recommending I don't get some then? How serious are the alignment issues?