Conrad

iTrader: (20)

Well I know one thing, your process so far sounds spot on. We'll see what Jeff has to add.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

If it's too much of a hassle, I understand. I'm curious as I also have an arctic white ws6. I have 1 scratch that has been bugging me since I bought the car. The scratch is about 1.5 inches long and is defintely paint-deep. Just curious to see how your repair turned out

Z28SteveA4

iTrader: (16)

ok so i have read this entire thread and i can say WOW i have never been so excited to try to do a detail on my car. Mind you i am completely new to this for the most part and you guys are a great bunch to start this thread and release your secrets, thank you all so much especially gofast. I have only do detailing by hand so Im excited to learn the in's and outs of this art. I would have never had thought how much actually goes into paint correction and detailing. So i have created a list from exactly what you guys have suggested and have a few stupid questions. My list goes like this:

1) buying the PC starter kit that has the meg 105 and 205 in it
2) Menzerna p086KD for that real nice depth and shine after the meg 205
3) Blackfire wet diamond sealent
4) Blackfire midnight wax
5) some extra lake country orange, white and black pads
6) A few extra cobra towels for drying the car after wash and for whip down after polish and wax
7) Pinnacle xmt polishing pad conditioner for application (Is this a good idea or should i just prime the pads instead???)
8) i going to clay bar the car as well and i already have the kit but im going to buy the no rinse stuff that was mentioned as lube
9) dawn soap and foamer gun

Ok so this is my list and was wondering would it be a good idea to do the entire car with the meg 105 after the car is properly washed and clayed? I have swirls on the entire car for the most part. I didnt know if the bad ones i should just do with the 105 and then the rest of the car 205?

Also once this entire processed is done what is the proper way of taking care of it after that? Do i just wax it every 3 months. Then in a year from now polish the car again? Or just keep waxing it?

Also i know that you have to wash the car with regular dawn before you clay bar but what kind of car wash should i use for a normal wash. I have the megs gold wash and conditioner now is this ok to continue using? I know this questioned was asked but i dont remember what page it was on

LT4vert

iTrader: (3)

As to wether to use 105 or 205, you basically gonna have to expirament. A good rule of thumb to follow, is start with the least agressive method it takes to acheive your goals. Start with 205 on an orange pads( speed 5 or 6) and step up to the 105 on an orange if you need something more aggressive. With the pad condition, I personally prefer to prime the pad( KB method). I did try the pinnicle conditioner AG sent free with my PC, but I havent touched it since. Try both ways, and use the method that your happiest with.

After your paint is nice and healthy, for maintenence, you method of car washing is going to determaine how often you need to polish it to remove any new defects. Make sure your washing with the 2 bucket method, using a high quality wash mitt, and drying with something like the waffle weave microfibers. I also keep a separate mitt for wheels, door jambs and trunk jamb. Also, do make sure your maintaining your microfibers correctly( wash mitts and drying towels included) Wash with a microfiber detergent, no fabric softer or regular laundry soap, wash in cool water and air dry or dry on no heat or lowest heat setting in the dryer. It makes a huge difference being as meticulous about the cleanliness and condition of all your towels as you are the paint on your car. After mine are clean, they go from the dryer to sealable rubber tubs until Im ready to use them. I used to keep all my towels in a duffle bag, but I kept noticing that no matter how careful I was to keep the bag zipped shut when not using it, I always would see a little bit of what looked like sand at the bottom( not good) The tubs( picked up cheap at the dollar store in various sizes) solved that problem. I may sound a bit ****, but its all worth the extra effort.

Far as the Blackfire goes. I cant comment on the wax, I have never used it on mine or a customers car. I do regulary use the sealant on nearly everything I do though. The Blackfire wet diamond sealent will last 3-4 months on a regularly driven car that gets washed once a week. So, it will depend on how often you drive your Z as to when it needs to be waxed again.

For car washes, I am a die hard Zaino Z7 user and that is what I always recomend. You will be fine sticking with the megs wash.

Hope that helps.

Z28SteveA4

iTrader: (16)

thanks lt4 vert for the extra advise and help it was greatly appreciated. Is there a wax other then the blackfire wax you might use after the sealant? Idk if it matters to but my car is bright metallic green ( the color the turns purple and blue) is there a polish or sealant that works better on my color?

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

My rims are done in by hard water spots/brake dust, I tried washing them multiple times but the water spots and some brake dust are basically caked on I guess.

Can I sand these and polish them back up? They are polished OE wheels ZR1s no clear coat.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Sorry I've been MIA again guys....just been swamped with work! Busiest Dec I've ever had! Pulled a 16hr day on an Aston Martin last night, getting home around 2:30am. Gonna be heading out to do work on a 911 GT3 RS shortly, but I'll handle some of your questions before I head out.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Give this a try. Good stuff. Use gloves and follow the directions exactly. NEVER use on side view mirror glass.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Once a month should be fine. Just clean with a "light" APC concentration so it doesn't build up.



Stoners Invisible Glass for ones that are really grimy. Otherwise, distilled water + waffle weave glass MF towel does the job nicely.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Some M105/205 on a microfiber will do wonders in tight spots. As for how many pads to use, it depends on how much correction it needs. I always have 10-15 on standby just in case, that way I don't have to waste time on the job cleaning the pads. When they start loading up and you can see the pores of the foam filling too much or it starts generating too much heat, its time to change it.

Rinse them in lukewarm water, gently massage the product out of them. Use a light APC to assist if you let the pads dry before washing them.


Imagine working on an Aston Martin or a Ferrari....you'd get shut down with the quickness trying to do that.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Thats about as good as you can get it without going to a bodyshop. Good method.

I'm glad this thread has been a help and inspiration to you!

LT4vert pretty much covered everything quite well. Just a couple things I'll add...

The Menzerna is PO85RD. With M105/205, prime the pads with product. Experiment with other polishes with the XMT. I found it works on some but not others. Just 1 light spray is plenty.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

The blackfire will look really good on that color.

Try some Mothers Billet polish since they have no clear coat.

badbird5.7

iTrader: (11)

the clear coat on the hood of my WS6 is starting to get cloudy in some spots, what's the best way to correct this? (the paint on the hood is original)

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Its likely the clear is failing and will need repainting.

thislswon

iTrader: (5)

Any advice on the quickest and easiest way to clean a Diamond White vehicle? My wife has an 09 G6 GT Coupe and that thing is 2x as hard to get clean and keep clean than black in my opinion!

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

I don't really specialize in "easiest" as it is the ugly cousin of "corner cutting".

Can you give more information? What makes it so difficult?

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Here is my Flickr album with the photos in it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/5457857...7628360633775/

The first seven (7) photos are the 'before' shots, the rest are the 'after'. I tried to post process some of these photos to exaggerate the scratch so its visible. Basically it went from a deep, dark scratch that you could feel with your fingernail to a 'flat', filled, light scratch that cannot be felt with a fingernail.

Like GoFast908Z said, this is about as good as it will get without a body shop getting involved and spraying the door/quarter. I asked the questions initially to see if there were any 'tricks of the trade' that could get the repair a little bit better. It's barely noticeable now so I will leave it as-is until the car gets a repaint in a couple of years.

TransAmWS.6

I have the opportunity to get a good car cover as a Christmas gift, however, I wash my car twice a week and put a fresh coat of wax on it once every two weeks. It's getting pretty cold here and the car sits outside most of the time unless it's snowing, would you recommend getting a car cover or am I better off just keeping wax on the paint and leaving it alone?

I ask because I've heard horror stories about a lot of car covers introducing new swirls and scratches, don't know if it's better that the car is open to the elements with some good wax on it, or just completely covered up.

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I have a question: I'm going to be getting a brand new 2011 car this month and I was wondering if I should claybar and detail it ASAP. I'm guessing the manufacturer doesn't put any kind of protectant on their cars, inside and out?

I looked through the thread, and I saw information just on new paint, and I follow those rules on my other cars.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Why do you wax the car every 2 weeks? That is too frequent. The wax will build up too much and dull the look of the paint. 4 weeks is good, but 2 is too often.

Just get a quality cover (I'd recommend silk or satin if they can afford it), and only cover it after a wash, and never after driving it.

Yes, clay and wax/seal it right away. Manufacture doesn't, but the dealer might. Tell them not to wash it or touch it in any way.