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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #721  
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Originally Posted by dabest09
Can I use diluted isopropyl alcohol to clean the paint in my engine bay? I tried it on a small area and the result was incredible. It's just the stock paint with no clear. Seems to clean better than apc.
It's not going to hurt the paint. It will strip any wax or glaze off your paint but that's about it.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 07:50 PM
  #722  
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Question, for a car that's extremely dirty, what do you all think is better, the do it yourself bays at car washes with the soft brush that they let you use, or the touchless car washes?

My car is very dirty right now, I hand wash it myself all the time, but the hose at my house is completely screwed from being frozen for so long.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 09:01 PM
  #723  
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If you want your paint to be a swirly mess, use that brush at the DIY car wash. Talk about brutal, that is the worst possible thing that you can touch your paint with. As far as touchless goes, it doesn't get your paint completely clean. For more clarity, watch these videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxMLl...el_video_title

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXROQ...feature=relmfu

If you want a guaranteed safe way to wash a car, the 2-bucket wash technique is your answer.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 10:49 PM
  #724  
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That guy is good thanks.

Also thanks for your post. I'm gonna just leave all my old microfibers and such for my mom/whoever else wants to use them for whatever. Thanks!

Also for drying your car, would you recommend something like this? http://www.autogeek.net/metairforbla.html or a leaf blower to dry? -- Seems a lot easier than drying by hand a lot less risky as far as doing it by hand.

Last edited by Guitar; Jan 27, 2012 at 10:56 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2012 | 11:59 PM
  #725  
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Originally Posted by Guitar
That guy is good thanks.

Also thanks for your post. I'm gonna just leave all my old microfibers and such for my mom/whoever else wants to use them for whatever. Thanks!

Also for drying your car, would you recommend something like this? http://www.autogeek.net/metairforbla.html or a leaf blower to dry? -- Seems a lot easier than drying by hand a lot less risky as far as doing it by hand.
lol that guy in the video is the poster who posted said video. he is indeed good t though. he's got lots of good videos.

I would get a leaf blower plus its cheaper.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 12:16 AM
  #726  
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Originally Posted by bobbyd
lol that guy in the video is the poster who posted said video. he is indeed good t though. he's got lots of good videos.

I would get a leaf blower plus its cheaper.
Holy **** I did not even realize that.

JUNKMAN your videos are great.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 03:21 AM
  #727  
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Originally Posted by Guitar
Holy **** I did not even realize that.

JUNKMAN your videos are great.


Thanks G. You have figured it out about not touching the car. The less you touch the paint, the less opportunity there is for you to damage the paint. A leaf blower is good. That's what I use to use. Now I use a Air Force Master Blaster. You would not believe how much air that thing moves. It makes drying a car or bike a snap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QhOjf...el_video_title
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 10:14 AM
  #728  
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Thanks for the help Junkman, very good videos.
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 10:22 AM
  #729  
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Old Jan 28, 2012 | 11:47 PM
  #730  
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I'm liking that idea of the leaf blower. Can pick one up off Amazon for $30, will probably do that as well as the drying with water method you talked about in your video. Since my car is black, you can imagine water spots show up bad. I washed my car maybe a week ago (and it rained the day after, nice) and right after I had water spots because I let it dry just sitting. I received one of those absorbers and a sponge that is also supposed to soak up water while polishing for Christmas...they sucked. Absorber got dirty quickly and the sponge actually left residue of itself on the paint - WTF?

Anyways, got a question for you. Is there a list you have that would be recommend for a first time good detail? I'm getting new wheels in the next few months, and after I get them I'd like to do a complete detail and get some nice pictures and such for the summer. I think I'll just keep all my stuff I have now for the other vehicles in the family and order some new stuff for the TA.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 01:46 AM
  #731  
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Originally Posted by Guitar
... Anyways, got a question for you. Is there a list you have that would be recommend for a first time good detail?
Yes I do. The first thing that you would need to do is give your car a good wash with Dawn dish washing liquid in order to remove any product that is on the car right now. Then take a look at this thread, where I explain my process from claying to wax. This complete process should only have to be done to your paint ONCE in the lifetime of your paint. From the completion of this process, you should NEVER repeat all the mistakes that you've made which caused your paint to get jacked up in the first place. The number one reason that so many people have jacked up paint is improper washing. Thus, I posted my 2-bucket wash process so that folks can learn the proper way to wash a car.

After you have fully corrected your paint, the only thing that you should ever have to do is use a very light polish to remove any light scratches that may appear. After that, you will apply wax if necessary. The key to this technique is realizing what creates damage in your paint. From improper dust removal to using cheap, made in China microfiber towels. There are all kinds of ways to damage your paint as the appearance of your paint will testify too. It almost seems like a religion but if you stop and think anytime that you are about to touch your paint, you will quickly realize that it is nothing more than common sense.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #732  
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Junkman you're gonna put me in the damn hole and have to make me go into business detailing buying all this stuff.

Very informative, both you and GoFast. I'll be weighing my options and trying to find deals along the way for everything.

Also on the revive polish, do you have to do that by hand or can you do that with the PC?
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 02:17 PM
  #733  
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Junkman is that your youtube video? That guy was funny "its got ya, and its got hell yeah"lmao. Wont a air compressor with one of the blowing tips work close to tge same? It will hold 200+ psi
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 02:37 PM
  #734  
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Oorah Junkman......Nice shirt and haircut.....yut yut kill
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:17 PM
  #735  
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Originally Posted by Guitar
Junkman you're gonna put me in the damn hole and have to make me go into business detailing buying all this stuff.

Very informative, both you and GoFast. I'll be weighing my options and trying to find deals along the way for everything.

Also on the revive polish, do you have to do that by hand or can you do that with the PC?
Well keep this in mind. Once you buy all the stuff you need, you won't be replacing most of it as it is a one time purchase. If you use the correct amount of polish, those bottles will last quite awhile. So the initial cost is a dent in the ol' pocketbook but after that, the cost is rather minimal. Remember, you do have my discount code that you can use.

Originally Posted by JUSTINSWS6
Junkman is that your youtube video? That guy was funny "its got ya, and its got hell yeah"lmao. Wont a air compressor with one of the blowing tips work close to tge same? It will hold 200+ psi
The problem with compressed air is that the bottom of that tank can get some gnarly crap in it and people are not religious about keeping their filters cleaned or changed. Some folks don't even have filters. Also, the attachments with compressed air funnel the air to a extreme stream, which is like sand blasting your paint. Not a good scenario. An electric (NOT gas) powered leaf blower would be a lot more practical as it will not spit anything out the end of that hose but air. The Master Blaster is like the Rolls Royce of leaf blowers.

Originally Posted by Stang-Slayer
Oorah Junkman......Nice shirt and haircut.....yut yut kill
Semper Fi bro'!
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #736  
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I think this thread should be a sticky and be organized to make it easier to browse through it.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by chaman
I think this thread should be a sticky and be organized to make it easier to browse through it.
I was trying to think of how to organize it myself since I came back to this thread and spent quite a few minutes searching for it. The only solution I came up with was to have the OP update the original post with specific items....for example:

1. General car care wish list
a
b
c
d
e
f
~z

2. Headlight restoration
a
b
c
d
e
f

3. Tire dressing/wheel cleaners
Use a,b,c,d

4. Etc

It's tough though since it would require a good amount of time to keep updating the post.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 04:42 PM
  #738  
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Yea, that would be quite a task. The best thing to do would probably be to have the OP just update the initial post with links to different parts of the thread and what is being discussed. Still a bit of work though.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 05:55 PM
  #739  
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Junkman how do you clena under the hood? I did it with engine degreaser and mist on the nozzle setting. It looked good for about a day. Do you do it any differently. I always tape my lid shut with painters tape, and cover the fuze box.
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Old Jan 29, 2012 | 06:10 PM
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Just picked up some torq thrust m wheels that are black with a machined lip. The previous owner said his brakes locked up and dusted the wheels so thick and cakes on that it is like a powdery rust. It comes off slow with heavy heavy scrubbing but was just wandering if there was an easier way. Any help is greatly appreciated to bring these black beutys back to life.
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