Sorry i worded that wrong. I am talking about applying the wax. Not the paint correction part. So is doing wax by hand fine? Will it not hurt the paint? Thanks a ton btw.

 

Unless you have extensive rotary experience yes. Rotary is not a tool for a novice.

 

Oh got it... You can do it either way and it will be fine.

 

I wash them after every car. Throw it in the washing machine with my other microfibers.

Yes I use a separate mitt. But only after hitting the area with a solvent like Tarminator to soften/disolve the stuff first.

 

I would 2nd this, I came from Adams, and wont go back, wish I would of just done more research at beginning.



Gofast what is your experience with interior detailing products? I have looked up a lot of reviews with PERL the gloss is something I am looking for, do you have any exp with this? Also what is your favorite leather products?

 

thanks for the help and glad to hear business is better than the norm.

 

put in "dash" or go to my profilr and click on the first post i made in the thread and right after you'll see the advice he gave for interior stuff. i'm going with the interio detailer and apc from meguairs. wallyworld had two other meguiars inteior products that specifically mentioned UV protection, but he didnt mention them, so i ain't fooling with them.

 

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...tailer™/

thats the detailer, and this

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professio...rpose-cleaner/

i think is the APC he told us about.

 

I just stumbled upon this thread. I didn't know there was a detailing section on this forum!

Actually, the above post is not true. The technique that I use in conjunction with the PC-7424, the Flex-3401VRG or the PC-7424XP is NOT specific to any brand of polish. The technique itself is true as a whole, regardless of who's boutique product you use. Be it Meguiar's, DoDo Juice, Menzerna, Poor Boys, Gtechniq or Adam's, the technique is more about the technique and not the product. One thing that I always tell folks is that the technique outweighs the product any day. In other words, you can give an expert the worst product on the market and a complete novice the best product on the market and the expert's shine will blow the novice's shine away. The reason why is that the expert will use a good technique compared to the novice's and the expert's results will reflect that.

Another thing to remember is that there are multiple techniques. There is no "one way" to use a buffer or polisher although there are common do's and don'ts. There is also not so much of a question as to which technique is best, the question is which technique is best for YOU. Not every major league batter swings the bat the same way, however, they are good enough to be paid millions to swing a bat. So before concentrating on what product to use, concentrate on being able to get the best results, regardless of the product you use. That practice will have you concentrating on your technique.

Bingo. My videos were not made to be stand alone videos, they were made to be put in a thread that I created somewhere on the web. Thus, you want to see the threads that I have created that contain the videos so that you will get all of the information. I'm kinda old and half senile so I forget stuff when making my videos. After I go back and watch them, I remember all the stuff I forgot to include. I put that missed info in the threads where the videos are posted. Usually, they are posted at the link provided above.

 

I dont know if it has been asked as I didnt go through all 18 pages, but whats the going rate at a shop for paint correction? Hourly I guess since each car varies with how many hours are needed..

 

If I remember correctly, Gofast said expect $30-$100 per hour and 8 hours for a car in reasonable condition. Also said to beware for the all inclusive for $150 type places.

 

I believe you hit the head of the nail with the first swing of that hammer. Someones paying attention

Another reason I started this thread was educating owners so they can help each other out. With That Camaro Guy's response, its working. Also that helps when I'm busy and can't check the boards.

 

Great thanks guys. I have heard good reviews about a place locally. I was going to give them a call but wanted some knowledge before I commit to anything.

 

Take notes on what they say and post it up. I'm good at deciphering detail-speak

 

Make sure that you clarify the fact that you want "paint correction" done to your car and not the 5 buckets of glaze treatment. Glaze is used to hide imperfections in the paint. The damage does NOT get removed when you glaze a paint job to death. Ask them to explain what they do when they paint correct a vehicle. Don't commit to anything, just post up what they say as GoFast suggested.

 

Would you recommend anything other than Blackfire wet diamond for Sunset Orange Metallic? My NBM has been totalled and so sad I didnt get to use any of my new stuff on it!

 

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 looks really nice, and Meguiars 301 Finishing Wax.

 

How do you clean your mitts/rags/sponges/microfibers/etc after a detail, and how do you keep them clean (lint free, etc.) while in storage or while not in use?

 

Can I use diluted isopropyl alcohol to clean the paint in my engine bay? I tried it on a small area and the result was incredible. It's just the stock paint with no clear. Seems to clean better than apc.

 

Out of all the things you named, REAL microfiber towels are the only important thing as they are the ONLY thing that should be touching your paint. The rest of that stuff should never touch your paint unless it is real microfiber. If it says "made in China", it is garbage as far as I'm concerned. That stuff wi;; scratch your paint to jell and back.

Here's how to care for microfiber:

First off, you only want to wash them in COLD water. DO NOT use a lot of soap. My towels never get very dirty or greasy because they are only used to wipe polish or wax from the car, thus I can use a gentle detergent like Woolite. You don't want to use the hash detergents like the stuff you use on your regular clothing. If your towels are a little dirtier than normal, let them soak in the washing machine overnight. Simply add the proper amount of Woolite to the washer, add the towels and fill the washer to the proper level. Use the gentle cycle to wash these towels. Allow the wash cycle to begin for 1 minute so that the Woolite has a chance to mix with the towels and then shut the washer down. Let it sit for as long as necessary (overnight if that's what you need, shorter times for towels not as bad), and then start the washer back up later.

DO NOT use any fabric softener of any kind! Do not use too much Woolite! Read the bottle, a little goes a long way. If 1x is good, 2x is worse in this case. Also NEVER. EVER, EVER wash these towels with any other article of clothing, especially bath towels and wash clothes. That will ruin them and cause major linting issues.

After the wash, DO NOT DRY THEM IN A DRYER USING HIGH HEAT!!! (if you do, you may as well use them to check the oil because they are useless at that point). I don't use a dryer at all. I allow them to air dry. String up a clothes line in your garage or outside somewhere and buy some clothes pins (if you can find some, that's some old school equipment right there!). If fabric sheets are used with these towels, it will destroy them. That will cause them to start scratching the crap out of your car. Drying them in the dryer with too much heat will do the same thing, that why I tell guys never to machine dry them.

If you follow these rules, your towels will keep the consistency and softness that they had from day one. If you allow your wives or girlfriends to do this, trust me, they will screw them up unless they have read this. Don't assume that they know how to do this and don't let them tell you that they know what they are doing when it comes to microfiber. They do not own, nor have they probably ever owned a piece of material like this so they will not be aware of these requirements. Test them before you hand them over and see if they get it right. I guarantee they won't.

I could go on and on with microfiber but these are the basics. the production of microfiber is a science. The shape, size and combinations of synthetic fibers used to create the type of microfiber that you want to use on your paint is selected for its specific characteristics, including: softness, durability, absorption, wicking abilities, water repellency, electrodynamics, and filtering capabilities. Not all microfiber being manufactured is the same for this very reason. Made in China microfiber is guaranteed to be of much lesser quality.

As for storage, I use a plastic bin that allows some breathing. Air tight bins will promote mildew if the towels are not 100% dry, or the temperature fluctuates significantly in your place of storage.