After a couple of years, I don't think it will come out. I'll be interested to hear if it does. You can't allow a stain like that to set and after a couple of years, that puppy is good and set. But hey, there may be something out there that I don't know about. The problem you are going to have is finding something that won't fade the leather.

 

i dont have a pc and i was wondering if i could apply polish with a random orbiter with a micro fiber bonnet. or if thats a no go??

 

If you are trying to remove paint damage, you would be more effective just staring at the swirls than using that thing. It is only good for one thing and that's spreading wax (although I would never put those crappy Chinese made bonnets on my paint). If you're trying to remove paint damage, you need the proper tools and polishes.

Give that thing you have to someone who needs a door stop. That's about all it's worth. This has been talked about earlier in this thread.

 

1500 is the most aggressive I use and is a starting point if the defects are VERY deep.

Thanks! Got lots of cool stuff coming.



The bird will come off with 1500, you just have to be patient. I always finish with 3000 grit. Makes the deep sanding marks much easier to remove. Yes it can take 1200 grit out, but its more effort than if you sand to a finer grit first. If you're happy with them I wouldn't worry about doing them again.

I wouldn't bother with sanding the reverse lights. If you can't correct the the tail lights with the machine, then go ahead and sand them.


I typically use a few pea sized dots.

I'd use minimal pressure and even try speed 3 at first, its a very aggressive combo.

Thanks! I finished the Bentley pics, so now I just need to build the writeup. Its gonna go up hopefully tomorrow.


A good solvent like Stoners Tarminator does a good job. Just clean it off afterwards with some ONR or light APC. Gloves would be a good idea while doing it too.

1. I complete the polishing on the whole vehicle before sealing it.

2. I only tape off trim and sharp edges. Anything more would be a waste of tape. You can use body lines to help guide your sections.

 

Waxing every week is too often and will mute the color of your paint. But a couple coats is fine. I have 2 coats of Swissvax Concorso on my Z06.

However wiping the car after driving is a good way to get swirls, I wouldn't recommend continuing it.

I almost always add a drop of Megs D300 to the 105. It makes it smoother and cuts down the dust. I also change pads frequently, having 4-6 pads as backups.

Clay it first then polish it with the PC or Griots 6" DA.

Leatherique and Z10 will not fix this. The leather is a coated leather that conditioners can not penetrate. Other than the dash/door panels on 4LT Corvettes and 3LZ Z06's and 3ZR ZR1's have real uncoated leather as I understand it. However the rest of the leather is coated and conditioners can not ever reach the leather.

I use whatever the car needs. I have way too many products to use them all on one car. As for IPA wipedowns, depends on how much carrier oils are in each product.

Blackfire Wet Diamond is my favorite, followed closely by Menzerna Powerlock and Megs D301.

Always clay the car before doing any correction work. Shoot me a PM if you'd like some work done on your car.



Yes, those are two exceptional products. I've tried HD Uno and the 3D lineup and was not impressed. Menzerna Fast Gloss is a good alternative to M105 with better working time. But Megs 101 is the best compound I've ever used, good working time, minimal dusting compared to 105 too. However its not commercially available in the US. I get mine from out of the country and its not easy to get here.

Do it like you would do a detail spray, but I'd spray a little more. For cars with softer paint I spray it on the towel and make sure its nicely saturated; also use a 1:3 ratio instead of 1:1. For harder paints (like most GM), spraying it on the paint is fine, and use a 1:1 ratio.

For the alcohol I get 91%, also use deionized water to reduce chance of any water-spotting.

 

Some detail spray can be a drying aid. I always flood the paint and then blow it dry so it doesn't take long at all.




That's odd, its never marred my paint....on the Camaro, the truck, or the Z06.

+1

I'm ordering one of those after getting the change to use it during the detail trip to LA/Vegas for the Shelby 50th Anniv bash.

Just a couple pea sized drops. Also use a working time that is less than 30 seconds generally. Adding D300 to the mix will help increase the working time slightly and reduce dusting.

Yep been doing a lot of that. Answer is above


Glad it worked out for you! It doesn't finish down as well as 205, but definitely better than 105.

The Bentley should be coming tomorrow

Wet sanding is a last resort. Typically just correcting the paint will fix those issues


Definitely do it over a wet surface. Yes!

If that isn't taking it out, try a Megs MF cutting disc with some D300 mixed with 105 (don't forget to brush the fibers back up after each use), or the Surbuf pad.

What kind of material is it on? Leather, vinyl, fabric?

 

Porter Cable

 

thanks for the response!

I'm just not sure what " ONR or light APC" is, sorry about that.

 

You're going to need something a little more aggressive as a polisher. A rotary would knock it out but I would never suggest you pick up one. I had to remove some holograms from a debadging on a Infinity and used a Flex, but I wet sanded it first with 2500 and 3000 grits using some Adam's stuff.

 

ONR = Optimum No Rinse This
APC = All Purpose Cleaner

 

Well I am not sure what I am doing wrong because I have a swirls back, I usually QD my care with KF425 2 or 3 times a week unless its really dirty I will use ONR and dry with my gold waffle. I am using CG MF's they are defiantly soft but I have to be doing something wrong.

 

whats the best auto parts store car wash you would recommend

 

ONR is Optimum No Rinse

APC is All Purpose Cleaner (Meguiars makes a good one) just dilute it to your liking. A light concentration would be like 10:1.

 

The wipedowns are your problem. I never do that, I always wash the car because you will get marring otherwise.

 

Haven't used any auto parts store products in years..... but any soap by Meguiars will be fine.

 

alright thanks, ran out the other day and im going to get some now, just thought is ask for recommendations.

 

I have a spot of black 5th wheel grease on my light tan armrest/door pull. It's been there a couple years. I've been scared to touch it in fear of smearing it around.

Sorry, 2000 Camaro. Whatever that's made from. Kinda rubber like vinyl.

 

What do you recommend not sure about Cali but here in Texas we get all this pollen crap that settles on my car when I goto school and it looks like crap. Should I just wash it?

 

Pollen is pretty much the most abrasive naturally occurring particle to come into contact with your paint. They are like a tumble weed mated with a barbed wire fence and had babies..... Never wipe pollen off the car, always wash it.

 

I've used a rotary before with a wool pad after I wet sanded a car that I had painted. That combo is deadly if you aren't careful.

What pad/compound did you use on the Infinity? If I screw it up I'll just respray it.