demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Dear Professional Detailer:

Am I wasting time by putting multiple coats of wax on my car?

I waxed a week or so ago, but I just waxed it again this morning. The car hasn't seen water/rain -- only quick detailer for wipe-downs after driving. Was it a useless waste of time and wax? Meguiars Ultimate paste wax, fwiw.

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

The reason why I wetsanded was to remove the bird and "trans am" writing. I would like to see some before and afters if you have them, preferably in the sun. I don't think you can get as good results without using the pc, but I could be wrong.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Ah, yeah, you're right about the logo and writing.

I don't have any before pictures of my panels, but here is a picture that I took a minute ago in direct light:



Sorry, it's horrible, but hey...

98 WS6

iTrader: (20)

Hey Jeff, quick question!

How do you deal with the dusting of M105? After I get half way around a car, the pad is dusting everywhere over my work area. Do you have extra pads that you switch between during this step? Menzerna SIP spreads like butter, and I never really have a problem with that.

Thanks man!

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

Need a close up!

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

I believe this has been answered 4 times in this thread.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Damn this thing is cool.

Q3131A

White Camaro SS. Has silver chain link fence paint overspray from 5 years ago.

How would you tackle this?

LT4vert

iTrader: (3)

I have a question about leather. Most of the leather in cars that I work on is already in like new or great shape. z10 has handled anything ive worked on with no problems. I have a set of leather seats now that I really dont know if its worth my time to correct. The leather "looks" very good, no cracking and really no wrinkles to speak of, to look at them , youd swear they were almost new. But, the problem, is over the years, the top surfaces that are real leather...cheap gm leather mind you (2000 grand am GT) have become very rigid and not soft. I know, from referencing other grand ams, the leather was soft and pliable in the cars I looked at, so Im not sure what happened in this car, other than the seats at one point got so dried out and sun damaged, my typical z10 process is not enough to restore the surface feel and restore the softness. Question, is a product like the leathertique oil and cleaner process able to fix a problem like this ~or do you think this problem is not correctable? Ive used leathertique before, but the what Ive used it on, the seats have never been dried out like this, so I have nothing to reference off of. I would just buy it, but I dont want it to be a waste as its really quite rare I get a car that needs the more intensive leather treatment offered by the leathertique.

My LS-won

The main ones I'd get so I have all my bases covered, Meguiars 105 and 205, Menzerna Super Intensive Polish (SIP) and 106FA (Nano) as well as PO85RD. Those are the 5 I use more than anything else.

As for wax, I'm not a big fan of waxes. I prefer sealants. But I'll give you my recommendations on both. Wax: Swissvax Concorso, or if you can afford it, Swissvax Crystal Rock. Doesn't get much better than those. Note, it DOES get more expensive than those, but not better IMO. Meguiars #16 if you can find it (epic wax), P21S 100% and Autoglym HD Wax are both good too.


For sealant, my favorite is Blackfire Wet Diamond, followed closely by Menzerna Powerlock, and Zaino Z2pro and Z5pro.[/QUOTE]


So do you use all the compounds on one job, also what do you do between compounds, you mentioned isopropl alcohol and distilled water.

Same with the sealants do you use all on one job or is that your fav to less fav.

I have a black car some how it got white over spray, will m105 take it off or do i need to claybar the car.

Im looking for the step and procedures you would use on my car.. i realize you cant see my car and evaluate my pain, maybe i should have had you diagnose it when we were at the Able Chevy. At that time i planned on having you do it but i see your booked 2 months out. FML. Thanks Jeff and i did go through 90% of this thread.

Pages 5, 8, 9, and 14 have most the info pple will be looking for if i recall correctly.

My LS-won

^^^ why did the quote turn out like that??

ZeeSNuttS

because your computer is HIGH lol

Adam1982

iTrader: (6)

Havent read the whole thread, apologize if this has been asked already. Do you still recommend tried and true polishes like 105 & 205 or have you done much with the newer stuff like HD Uno and 3D? I always liked the results from 105 & 205 but the dusting I got was such a pain, the newer stuff is supposed to be a lot better, but I have no first hand experience. Any input?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

The 105 dusted real bad for me. I found out reading this thread I was using too much, working it too long and trying to work too large of an area.

To answer your question he does recommend the 105 and 205 as well as the SIP.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Same here. Works much better now!

2QuikTA

Claybar

Junkman2008

Sorry guys, I somehow got unsubscribed from this thread! I don't know how, I must have clicked the wrong link. As for my corner, the videos have been moved to various sections. Let me know if you're looking for something in particular.

ynkssws6

iTrader: (1)

This might be a dumb question...

but earlier in the thread you mentioned "*NOTE: Always use an isoprophyl alcohol wipedown to strip polishing oils BEFORE applying your wax or sealant, or you risk it not bonding properly and severely shortening its durability."

Do i simply put the alcohol on a microfiber and wipe it down? And what percentage alcohol? Do i dilute it at all? Thanks!

Junkman2008

Most folks who do that use a 50/50 mixture pf alcohol and water.

ynkssws6

iTrader: (1)

I know this thread is a TON of info. I just joined autogeek today and man so much to read!

Here's one of the takeaways I saw on that site:

http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/wax-...art-master.htm