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#981
Update i used m105 and m205 by hand it looks awsome. The weather striping did not have swirls i thought it did. It did have water spots and a little discoloring. Used a clay bar and it cam out and looks new thanks everyone. Also what is the best way to polish stainless steel?
#984
#987
Didnt you use steel wool on your vette exhaust? I heard from the old timers not to use it on stainless because steel rust and some of the steel will be left on the stainless causing rust spots.
#988
Yes I did, but I'm not using it any longer. After some discussion and research I've decided to stick with the softer MF towels. Yes it takes longer but the outcome is better.
I think the old timers need their eyes checked....if there are rust spots then they never wiped the residue off completely, or their chrome is pitted and will rust regardless.
I think the old timers need their eyes checked....if there are rust spots then they never wiped the residue off completely, or their chrome is pitted and will rust regardless.
#990
That's exactly why I use the Powerball. I'm too damn old to be rubbing my ball and socket joints into oblivion. I would hurt for 3 months if I tried that crap now.
#991
That's what POLISHING does. Polishing stuff makes it shine. That's true with jewelry, leather, glass, aluminum, diamonds and plastic.
I wouldn't start with M105 on plastic until I tried something less abrasive first. The correct product coupled with an effective technique eliminates the necessity to get aggressive when correcting something.
This has me baffled. You have swirls in the rubber trim??? Post a high quality picture. This I have to see.
I wouldn't start with M105 on plastic until I tried something less abrasive first. The correct product coupled with an effective technique eliminates the necessity to get aggressive when correcting something.
This has me baffled. You have swirls in the rubber trim??? Post a high quality picture. This I have to see.
#994
#996
First off, imagine a flat section of your finish as perfect and blemish free. If you were to cut a slice of it away and look at it at eye level, it would be as straight as a razor's edge. Now imagine a scratch has surfaced. At eye level, this is what you would be looking at:
Now you have two option that you can use to REPAIR this damage. You can repaint the area, which would be silly to do if the scratch is minor. Or, you can cut away some of the clear coat, and make it level BELOW the point of the scratch. At that point, your clear coat is perfect again and the scratch has been removed.
In order to shave the bad clear coat away, you have to use a POLISH. It, along with the use of a polisher allows you to shave clear coat off the car. Different polishes will cut different amounts of clear off the car so it is imperative that you use the correct polish for the job at hand. Knowing what polish to use comes with experience. Using a polisher is MUCH faster than trying to do it by hand. MUCH FASTER.
So does that make sense as to how a scratch is repaired and why a polisher is the preferred method?
Last edited by Junkman2008; 02-26-2012 at 03:15 PM.
#997
What brand pads are you talking about? The colors are not the same with all manufactures. Orange is mostly used for medium scratches and thus would be used with Meguiar's M105. White would be used with Meguiar's M205.
#999