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I think the old timers need their eyes checked....if there are rust spots then they never wiped the residue off completely, or their chrome is pitted and will rust regardless.
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I wouldn't start with M105 on plastic until I tried something less abrasive first. The correct product coupled with an effective technique eliminates the necessity to get aggressive when correcting something.
This has me baffled. You have swirls in the rubber trim??? Post a high quality picture. This I have to see.
First off, imagine a flat section of your finish as perfect and blemish free. If you were to cut a slice of it away and look at it at eye level, it would be as straight as a razor's edge. Now imagine a scratch has surfaced. At eye level, this is what you would be looking at:

Now you have two option that you can use to REPAIR this damage. You can repaint the area, which would be silly to do if the scratch is minor. Or, you can cut away some of the clear coat, and make it level BELOW the point of the scratch. At that point, your clear coat is perfect again and the scratch has been removed.
In order to shave the bad clear coat away, you have to use a POLISH. It, along with the use of a polisher allows you to shave clear coat off the car. Different polishes will cut different amounts of clear off the car so it is imperative that you use the correct polish for the job at hand. Knowing what polish to use comes with experience. Using a polisher is MUCH faster than trying to do it by hand. MUCH FASTER.
So does that make sense as to how a scratch is repaired and why a polisher is the preferred method?
Last edited by Junkman2008; Feb 26, 2012 at 03:15 PM.


