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Both of those are DA's like the PC so you cant hurt your paint with those, they just have more TQ to help remove defects a PC will either take alot longer to do or just can't.
Did you get a clay bar by chance? Your gonna need one of those, I'd suggest a Nanoskin Towel, Mitt, or the Autoscrub Pad they are easier and faster plus if you drop them they arent garbage you just rinse it and can still use it
Did you get a clay bar by chance? Your gonna need one of those, I'd suggest a Nanoskin Towel, Mitt, or the Autoscrub Pad they are easier and faster plus if you drop them they arent garbage you just rinse it and can still use it
After reading some of the reviews on the HD polisher I would stick with the PC but that's just me.
Both of those are DA's like the PC so you cant hurt your paint with those, they just have more TQ to help remove defects a PC will either take alot longer to do or just can't.
Did you get a clay bar by chance? Your gonna need one of those, I'd suggest a Nanoskin Towel, Mitt, or the Autoscrub Pad they are easier and faster plus if you drop them they arent garbage you just rinse it and can still use it
Did you get a clay bar by chance? Your gonna need one of those, I'd suggest a Nanoskin Towel, Mitt, or the Autoscrub Pad they are easier and faster plus if you drop them they arent garbage you just rinse it and can still use it
Its a sturdy machine. I dropped it off the tailgate of my truck and it works perfect still. Its no noisier than the Griot's 6". I personally like it a great deal.
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garag...shing-kit.html
So that is what I got for Christmas. To make sure, and this is my main point, this won't damage my paint, right?
Now to get some good polish for it. Also assuming I will need a higher cutting pad for something like Meguair's 205?
So that is what I got for Christmas. To make sure, and this is my main point, this won't damage my paint, right?
Now to get some good polish for it. Also assuming I will need a higher cutting pad for something like Meguair's 205?
Gofast,i dont know if this topic has been covered,im redoing my int and new carpet kinda needs done,but i have to ask have you used any dies/paints to make a carpet look new,a dealer told me its something they do alot,but i never got anymore info from him,im just wondering how good that stuff is,i have a strict budget for this so saving some cash on carpet would be great,let me know your opinion
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I recently acquired a 2001 c5 convertible vette with navy blue metallic paint.
It shines good but has a lot of minor scratches and swirls in sunlight/halogen light, I am interested in purchasing a porter cable or a similar buffer but wanted to know which products would be good on this paint? it's a bit darker then most.
Also, the car is originally from florida, I just noticed on an overcast day that parts of the hood on the passenger side are small blisters/bubbles only visible in certain lighting, and parts of the rear deck lid but not much there, I was wanting to know if this is able to be corrected with cutting/polishing or would it make it worse? it seems to be in the clear coat but I'm not 100%. it's mostly the hood tho, all side panels are perfect, I'm thinking the sun baked the paint on some of the flat services.
Thanks!
It shines good but has a lot of minor scratches and swirls in sunlight/halogen light, I am interested in purchasing a porter cable or a similar buffer but wanted to know which products would be good on this paint? it's a bit darker then most.
Also, the car is originally from florida, I just noticed on an overcast day that parts of the hood on the passenger side are small blisters/bubbles only visible in certain lighting, and parts of the rear deck lid but not much there, I was wanting to know if this is able to be corrected with cutting/polishing or would it make it worse? it seems to be in the clear coat but I'm not 100%. it's mostly the hood tho, all side panels are perfect, I'm thinking the sun baked the paint on some of the flat services.
Thanks!
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
This should help some. I will find a post from Jeff from earlier.
It can be overwhelming. I was lucky and got in not too long after the thread started.
Here's a recap up till now, I'll hit the high points. I won't go into how to do things just whats needed and what does what
A vast majority of scratches/swirls on a car are from improper washing/drying techniques. Every time you touch your paint you run the risk of scratching/marring it.
These are the important things you need to wash your vehicle correctly,
-2 buckets
-2 grit guards
-Good car shampoo, NO DAWN unless you are wanting to remove all waxes/glazes
-good washmit
-foam gun is optional, highly suggested for black vehicles
-waffle weave, guzzler drying towel, Auto Zone's big blue drying towel is actually very nice
-check out Junkman's or Adams videos on Youtube for the correct way to wash/dry your car
Microfibers
-good microfibers, MF from Auto Zone, Adcance, etc are junk. They are made in China and even though they are MF they can and will scratch soft paint
-get good micro fibers from detailing.com, Auto Geek has good ones but you have to be careful which ones you buy, there are other sites but these are the two I have actually bought from
Pads
Lake Country flat pads, 5.5 inch pads are much easier to work with than the 6in pads
orange-used for correction, used primarily for deep scratches, RIDS in some cases
white- used for polishing, can be used for correction depending on what compound you use with it
black-used to fine polishing and jeweling
There are many more pads but for someone starting out this is what I suggest. This is what I started with a year ago and still primarily use these three along with the MF pads
Microfiber pads
Microfiber polishing pads, primarily Meguairs. Lake Country has MF pads out but I haven't had any experience with them and I haven't had a chance to talk to Jeff about them.
-MF correction pads
-MF polishing pads
Both use the same microfiber but the difference is the backing. The polishing pad has a thicker pad which reduces the amount of pressure/force that is transmitted to the disc itself.
MF pads typically cut more than the LC orange pad. The system was designed for OEM finishes in a body shop environment which means they are designed to cut quickly and leave a decent finish. Depending on what compound you use, they can be used for heavy correction or used as a one step process if the car isn't bad. The D301 the polish that Meg's sends with the kit has fine abrasives and also carnuba wax, hence the one step. More compounds/polishes later. You can do an amazing amount of correction with MF pads. IMO they are superior to foam pads in that regards. However you will find that most people use the MF pads for correction and foam pads for polishing and jeweling. Each have their own place.
Compounds/polishes
There are hundreds of compounds/polishes out there. A compound is used for correction and a polishes are for just that. These are the compounds that were suggest by Jeff early on in the thread. There are a few of the Menz products that I will have to go back and look at.
M105, used for correction, removes heavy swirls, water spots, etc, short work time, priming the pad is critical for optimum performance, dusts a lot, use D300 w/ the M105 to greatly reduce dusting and extend work time some. Used primarily with orange pad and MF pads. MF pads+M105= rotary type results w/ a DA
M205, can be used for correction and polishing depending on what pad you use with it, fantastic work time, little to no dusting, I love this stuff. Used primarily with white and black pads.
D300, this is like if M105 and M205 had a love child. It doesn't have the cut of M105 but the work time is longer like M205. Can be used w/ MF pads or orange pad.
D301, I'm mention this because it ships with the MF pad kit, used for light polishing, has wax in it
Menz 85RD, used for jeweling, no cut just polishing. Used primarily with black pad
There are several other things Jeff recommends but I haven't used.
There are several other areas that I haven't touched on, waxes, sealants, metal polish, etc. When I get some time I will post them.
Things to remember starting out
There are thousands of products out there. Some work, some work well, some don't work worth a ****. The great thing is Jeff has made this awesome thread that helps takes a lot of guess work out of getting started doing paint correction.
The products you use are important but what is MORE important is how you use them. Someone that has great technique and half *** products will get superior results compared to someone that has half assed technique and great products.
Once you pick what pads/compunds you are going to use, stick with them. Don't go out buying the latest and greatest thing. You will end up broke and still have not so great results. Learn how to use what you have. Once you get a good understanding of what does what, then start changing things.
Understand that there is no one system, pad/compound/polish that will fix every paint type. Learn that you can use different pad/compound/polish combinations. For example, with M205 you can use anything from and orange pad down to a black pad. Depending on what the paint want's needs you will learn to change things up. This is where sticking with the same pads and compounds really helps.
This just touches on the IMO the most important topics in this thread.
I know its a lot of reading. It's a tremdendous amount of information, but the thing is its good information. Take notes, make notes what information is on what page, print the thread out to read on the throne later that night.
Yes it takes a long time to read, hell its taken me over half an hour just to type this reply out.
Thanks for reading.
J
Here's a recap up till now, I'll hit the high points. I won't go into how to do things just whats needed and what does what
A vast majority of scratches/swirls on a car are from improper washing/drying techniques. Every time you touch your paint you run the risk of scratching/marring it.
These are the important things you need to wash your vehicle correctly,
-2 buckets
-2 grit guards
-Good car shampoo, NO DAWN unless you are wanting to remove all waxes/glazes
-good washmit
-foam gun is optional, highly suggested for black vehicles
-waffle weave, guzzler drying towel, Auto Zone's big blue drying towel is actually very nice
-check out Junkman's or Adams videos on Youtube for the correct way to wash/dry your car
Microfibers
-good microfibers, MF from Auto Zone, Adcance, etc are junk. They are made in China and even though they are MF they can and will scratch soft paint
-get good micro fibers from detailing.com, Auto Geek has good ones but you have to be careful which ones you buy, there are other sites but these are the two I have actually bought from
Pads
Lake Country flat pads, 5.5 inch pads are much easier to work with than the 6in pads
orange-used for correction, used primarily for deep scratches, RIDS in some cases
white- used for polishing, can be used for correction depending on what compound you use with it
black-used to fine polishing and jeweling
There are many more pads but for someone starting out this is what I suggest. This is what I started with a year ago and still primarily use these three along with the MF pads
Microfiber pads
Microfiber polishing pads, primarily Meguairs. Lake Country has MF pads out but I haven't had any experience with them and I haven't had a chance to talk to Jeff about them.
-MF correction pads
-MF polishing pads
Both use the same microfiber but the difference is the backing. The polishing pad has a thicker pad which reduces the amount of pressure/force that is transmitted to the disc itself.
MF pads typically cut more than the LC orange pad. The system was designed for OEM finishes in a body shop environment which means they are designed to cut quickly and leave a decent finish. Depending on what compound you use, they can be used for heavy correction or used as a one step process if the car isn't bad. The D301 the polish that Meg's sends with the kit has fine abrasives and also carnuba wax, hence the one step. More compounds/polishes later. You can do an amazing amount of correction with MF pads. IMO they are superior to foam pads in that regards. However you will find that most people use the MF pads for correction and foam pads for polishing and jeweling. Each have their own place.
Compounds/polishes
There are hundreds of compounds/polishes out there. A compound is used for correction and a polishes are for just that. These are the compounds that were suggest by Jeff early on in the thread. There are a few of the Menz products that I will have to go back and look at.
M105, used for correction, removes heavy swirls, water spots, etc, short work time, priming the pad is critical for optimum performance, dusts a lot, use D300 w/ the M105 to greatly reduce dusting and extend work time some. Used primarily with orange pad and MF pads. MF pads+M105= rotary type results w/ a DA
M205, can be used for correction and polishing depending on what pad you use with it, fantastic work time, little to no dusting, I love this stuff. Used primarily with white and black pads.
D300, this is like if M105 and M205 had a love child. It doesn't have the cut of M105 but the work time is longer like M205. Can be used w/ MF pads or orange pad.
D301, I'm mention this because it ships with the MF pad kit, used for light polishing, has wax in it
Menz 85RD, used for jeweling, no cut just polishing. Used primarily with black pad
There are several other things Jeff recommends but I haven't used.
There are several other areas that I haven't touched on, waxes, sealants, metal polish, etc. When I get some time I will post them.
Things to remember starting out
There are thousands of products out there. Some work, some work well, some don't work worth a ****. The great thing is Jeff has made this awesome thread that helps takes a lot of guess work out of getting started doing paint correction.
The products you use are important but what is MORE important is how you use them. Someone that has great technique and half *** products will get superior results compared to someone that has half assed technique and great products.
Once you pick what pads/compunds you are going to use, stick with them. Don't go out buying the latest and greatest thing. You will end up broke and still have not so great results. Learn how to use what you have. Once you get a good understanding of what does what, then start changing things.
Understand that there is no one system, pad/compound/polish that will fix every paint type. Learn that you can use different pad/compound/polish combinations. For example, with M205 you can use anything from and orange pad down to a black pad. Depending on what the paint want's needs you will learn to change things up. This is where sticking with the same pads and compounds really helps.
This just touches on the IMO the most important topics in this thread.
I know its a lot of reading. It's a tremdendous amount of information, but the thing is its good information. Take notes, make notes what information is on what page, print the thread out to read on the throne later that night.
Yes it takes a long time to read, hell its taken me over half an hour just to type this reply out.
Thanks for reading.
J
I have a HUGE array of products, but I will list my top choices in a few areas.
Car Wash:
-Zaino Z7
-Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (can be used to remove old LSP if desired)
-Meguiars Pro Line Shampoo Plus
-Blackfire soap
Clay Bars:
*All clay in the US is made by one manufacturer, the choice of grade of clay is more important than brand*
-Zaino Z18 (medium grade)
-Blackfire Poly clay (medium)
-Meguiars White clay (fine/med)
-Meguiars Red clay (aggressive)
Tire Dressing:
-Zaino Z18 (by far most versatile, you can choose the level of shine. Water based, will not sling)
-Adams Super VRT (moderate/high shine, not water based, will not sling)
-Gloss-It Signature Tire Gloss (moderate/high shine, only will sling if over-applied)
-Meguiars Pro Line Hyperdressing (moderate shine, only will sling if over-applied)
Leather:
*Use cleaner EVERY TIME before you condition. Stay away from 2-in-1 products*
-Leatherique twins (costly, long time to work, by FAR the BEST out there.)
-Zaino Z9/Z10 (cost effective, simple, smells great)
-Leather Masters (similar to Zaino)
-Lexol twins (a little pricey, thicker-application can cause use of too much product)
-Adams (cost effective, little goes a long way)
*NOTE: using leather conditioner on plastic coated leather (like ALL GM leather and 75% of most leather out there) will leave it shiny! The plasticized coating will not allow a conditioner to really soak in. So wipe it down with a slightly damp towel to knock down the shine and slickness.
Genuine leather (most BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Lamborghini, Jaguar, etc...) will soak up conditioners nicely.
Compounds:
-Meguiars 105 (numerous applications, fast cut, but short working time, use ONLY when required. Great for hard clear coats. Non-diminishing abrasives, BE AWARE OF THIS. It doesn't break down or reduce its cut)
-Menzerna Power Gloss (similar to 105, but not quite as efficient, doesn't finish down as nicely, but still good compound)
Medium to Fine polishes:
-Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
(designed for hard german ceramic clear coats....to cut fast but finish down to OEM quality. Works! PERFECT on C5/C6 corvettes and 4th/5th generation Fbody. Excellent working time, smooth, excellent gloss)
-Meguairs 205
(works similar to SIP, but has non-diminishing abrasives so the more you work it the more it cuts. It does NOT break down. Usually has a near LSP ready finish depending on pad. Very versatile without being too aggressive, numerous types of applications including on interior pieces and engines.
-Menzerna PO203
-(Similar to SIP, but ideal for 1-step applications, great working time, finishes down with more gloss. Works best on European paints, most notably Porsche and Audi)
-Menzerna 106FA
-(also designed for hard ceramic clears. Designed for use after SIP. Finishing polish. Leaves superb gloss. Good working time)
-Menzerna FPII
-(similar to 106FA, but not made for hard clears. Delivers exceptional gloss and clarity)
-Menzerna PO85RD
-(minimal cutting ability. This is designed for enhancing gloss and clarity to its highest degree, ie jeweling. Longest working time of any product I've used. The more you work it, the better it gets. It simply does not get better than this for a finishing polish.)
*NOTE: Always use an isoprophyl alcohol wipedown to strip polishing oils BEFORE applying your wax or sealant, or you risk it not bonding properly and severely shortening its durability.
Here it is. Meme and Mischeif this should help some. He lists the Menz products that are good on the harder clears for the C5's and F Bodies.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Thanks I saw those posts. Considered picking up some m105/205. The scratches that I posted seemed to be from other sources than just improper washes.
But reading over more information it seems that they can be fixed with the products listed above. For the most part I just wanted an opinion of steps I could do to correct this, I'm pretty new to working with polishers and don't want to do more damage than good.
But reading over more information it seems that they can be fixed with the products listed above. For the most part I just wanted an opinion of steps I could do to correct this, I'm pretty new to working with polishers and don't want to do more damage than good.
That is some pretty bad condition. I would try m105 with an orange pad, then m205 with a white pad. Might need to do some wet sanding but hard to tell. You will be able to correct a lot of that. Depending your skill level and how many passes, etc. From there you will want to lsp with either sealant or wax. Then make sure you read the thread on how to keep it maintained. GL
I have been getting hit hard with some bad weather. I went out to my garage today and all of my supplies are frozen... Compound, polish, wax, all purpose cleaner, shiner, Window cleaner.... If the stuff thaws out, will it be good to use, or is it all junk now?
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I've had 3 PC's over 8 years. None have ever died. However they do lack a little in the power area.