White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Now that the car has been in the garage, I've been leaving the windows open. I'll pull the carpet, clean it thoroughly, and allow it to dry all week. If the jute looks "bad", then I will probably just ditch it and reinstall the carpet.

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Just ordered some Sonax wheel cleaner and Chemical Guys Metal Shine based on recommendations from Jeff. Can't wait to try it out on my Fikse's. I'll post back with results when I get it.

Dvldogyut

Great thread. I read thru a bunch of pages but didn't find my question. It may have been asked but I didn't see it. What is the best way to clean the door jambs? I recently purchased a 98 Z-28 and the door jambs are nasty as well as around the t-tops and hatch area. I wiped most of it off easily today with just a damp cloth. But what about all of the tiny nooks and crannies? That I can't get my finger or cloth into? Is there a good product to "spray on and spray off the is going to make it look as good as the outside of the car and clean all of these tight areas without having to disassemble the car?

Rafedial

iTrader: (7)

for grease/dirt on the hinges, go with a degreaser soaked rag. For the painted areas in the jambs after wash, use a quick detailer.

Dvldogyut

That is what I have been using, but I am looking for something to maybe use where I can't fit my hand.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

I've seen some detailing threads, where they do full detail on pretty dirty cars. The detailer used a "steamer" machine. It wasn't like a carpet steam cleaner, but reminded you of a pressure washer that shot out steam. I remember them using that on the door jambs to get the crud out of hard to reach places. It's probably an expensive item as I couldn't find it on Autogeek or Adams websites.

I just did a quick google search. Try searching for "McCulloch Handheld Steam Cleaner". It is $50 on a website that has auto sport catalog as its name (non sponsor so I can't link). That looks like a cheap version of what I am talking about. Check it out.

That one looks like you need to use the brush to agitate the crud, whereas the one I am talking about almost shoots the steam out like a pressure washer.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Like this?






For a good one like this, expect $700+

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

Gofast,

This has turned out to be a great thread.

So do you pretty much use all Zaino products? I was digging through here and wondering if you are still using the same products that you suggest a year ago?

Is the Zaino wash better than the meguiars professional wash? I usually like all meguiars products?

I used the turtle wax F21 i believe is what its called for the interior dash? Is this a good product or is there a better one for these cars? Also is the Zaino Z9/10 some of the best stuff for leathered cars? My old Z28 started to have wear, and slight cars. Wondering if it prevents that stuff.

Also, anything you like in particular to clean TT2 rims thats not time consuming? And any freshener that actually does smell like a new car that you suggest?

Thanks

38DD2436

How do you take care of a convertible top?

Arctic_Z

Hi,

I've got some swirl marks in my arctic white paint and I'm wondering if you could answer a few questions I have about removing them and getting into a routine to prevent them from now on.

I was told I need to do the double bucket method from now on with a microfiber mitt, preferably two, one for the bottom of car and one for the top. Then dry with a microfiber towel. What car wash soap should I use?

I'm probably going to purchase the Griot's Garage 6 inch random orbital polisher, looks to be a good one for a beginner and I don't think I'll need much more than that at this time.

What steps do I need to take?
- wash car and dry with microfiber towel
- clay bar entire car, do I need to wash the car afterwards before I start the next steps?
- swirl remover compound with a microfiber cutting pad. recommended compound?
- polishing pad and what do you recommend to use?
- then do I wax/seal with a final finish pad after that? what product do you recommend to finish with?

I have black zr1 wheels with the machined lip. what do you recommend to use on those to make them look new again?

I'm looking for a step by step guide to make sure I'm not missing something and wasting my time. I'm open to any products at this time to get me started. Please help a newb out! Thank You

AWDTBSS

here you go, killer deal
http://www.bjs.com/store/griot-s-gar...765stdcrd.html

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Read this thread, it has lots of good info in it.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...-detailer.html

JD_AMG

Read through the first ten pages of this thread, it will answer a lot of questions.
Some cliffs of good posts:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15320360-post47.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15324573-post82.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15324594-post83.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15331881-post128.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/15331887-post129.html

I bought a porter cable 7424xp (kit from one of the links) after reading through this thread and did some work to my car, it did wonders, and its so easy/safe to use, don't be afraid.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

All the info is here. You just have to go through it, take notes and learn. Jeff was nice enough to start this thread. Now its up to you to put the time in.

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

I use either a boar's hair brush or cheap paint brushes for areas like that. Spray the area with all purpose cleaner, let sit for a bit, then use the brushes to agitate the nooks and crannies. Another option is the mini speedmaster wheel brush, but it's more expensive.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

That's what I started using and it worked really well. Cleaning door jambs can be tricky because some scratch really easy because not every manufacturer clear coats them.

That mini steam gun is sweet.

Arctic_Z

Thanks!

Will do, thank you!

Yea I was overwhelmed with the pages, I'll get to reading thanks!

Thank you!

Conrad

iTrader: (20)

People need to think of this thread as a guide, a book, rather than a long-*** thread.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

It can be overwhelming. I was lucky and got in not too long after the thread started.

Here's a recap up till now, I'll hit the high points. I won't go into how to do things just whats needed and what does what

A vast majority of scratches/swirls on a car are from improper washing/drying techniques. Every time you touch your paint you run the risk of scratching/marring it.

These are the important things you need to wash your vehicle correctly,

-2 buckets
-2 grit guards
-Good car shampoo, NO DAWN unless you are wanting to remove all waxes/glazes
-good washmit
-foam gun is optional, highly suggested for black vehicles
-waffle weave, guzzler drying towel, Auto Zone's big blue drying towel is actually very nice
-check out Junkman's or Adams videos on Youtube for the correct way to wash/dry your car

Microfibers

-good microfibers, MF from Auto Zone, Adcance, etc are junk. They are made in China and even though they are MF they can and will scratch soft paint
-get good micro fibers from detailing.com, Auto Geek has good ones but you have to be careful which ones you buy, there are other sites but these are the two I have actually bought from

Pads

Lake Country flat pads, 5.5 inch pads are much easier to work with than the 6in pads

orange-used for correction, used primarily for deep scratches, RIDS in some cases

white- used for polishing, can be used for correction depending on what compound you use with it

black-used to fine polishing and jeweling

There are many more pads but for someone starting out this is what I suggest. This is what I started with a year ago and still primarily use these three along with the MF pads

Microfiber pads

Microfiber polishing pads, primarily Meguairs. Lake Country has MF pads out but I haven't had any experience with them and I haven't had a chance to talk to Jeff about them.

-MF correction pads
-MF polishing pads

Both use the same microfiber but the difference is the backing. The polishing pad has a thicker pad which reduces the amount of pressure/force that is transmitted to the disc itself.

MF pads typically cut more than the LC orange pad. The system was designed for OEM finishes in a body shop environment which means they are designed to cut quickly and leave a decent finish. Depending on what compound you use, they can be used for heavy correction or used as a one step process if the car isn't bad. The D301 the polish that Meg's sends with the kit has fine abrasives and also carnuba wax, hence the one step. More compounds/polishes later. You can do an amazing amount of correction with MF pads. IMO they are superior to foam pads in that regards. However you will find that most people use the MF pads for correction and foam pads for polishing and jeweling. Each have their own place.

Compounds/polishes

There are hundreds of compounds/polishes out there. A compound is used for correction and a polishes are for just that. These are the compounds that were suggest by Jeff early on in the thread. There are a few of the Menz products that I will have to go back and look at.

M105, used for correction, removes heavy swirls, water spots, etc, short work time, priming the pad is critical for optimum performance, dusts a lot, use D300 w/ the M105 to greatly reduce dusting and extend work time some. Used primarily with orange pad and MF pads. MF pads+M105= rotary type results w/ a DA

M205, can be used for correction and polishing depending on what pad you use with it, fantastic work time, little to no dusting, I love this stuff. Used primarily with white and black pads.

D300, this is like if M105 and M205 had a love child. It doesn't have the cut of M105 but the work time is longer like M205. Can be used w/ MF pads or orange pad.

D301, I'm mention this because it ships with the MF pad kit, used for light polishing, has wax in it

Menz 85RD, used for jeweling, no cut just polishing. Used primarily with black pad

There are several other things Jeff recommends but I haven't used.

There are several other areas that I haven't touched on, waxes, sealants, metal polish, etc. When I get some time I will post them.

Things to remember starting out

There are thousands of products out there. Some work, some work well, some don't work worth a ****. The great thing is Jeff has made this awesome thread that helps takes a lot of guess work out of getting started doing paint correction.

The products you use are important but what is MORE important is how you use them. Someone that has great technique and half *** products will get superior results compared to someone that has half assed technique and great products.

Once you pick what pads/compunds you are going to use, stick with them. Don't go out buying the latest and greatest thing. You will end up broke and still have not so great results. Learn how to use what you have. Once you get a good understanding of what does what, then start changing things.

Understand that there is no one system, pad/compound/polish that will fix every paint type. Learn that you can use different pad/compound/polish combinations. For example, with M205 you can use anything from and orange pad down to a black pad. Depending on what the paint want's needs you will learn to change things up. This is where sticking with the same pads and compounds really helps.

This just touches on the IMO the most important topics in this thread.

I know its a lot of reading. It's a tremdendous amount of information, but the thing is its good information. Take notes, make notes what information is on what page, print the thread out to read on the throne later that night.

Yes it takes a long time to read, hell its taken me over half an hour just to type this reply out.

Thanks for reading.

J

AWDTBSS

they have good deals on MF towels and MF wash mitts
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Microfib...ories_s/18.htm

I found that Adams has the best deal on Grit Guards/Buckets that offer a snug air tight fit with Gamma lids
http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-382-a...sh-bucket.aspx

I love this stuff as my Wax/Sealant



For clay bar look into the Nanoskin Towels or Autoscrub Pads way faster than normal clay last ALOT longer and if you drop it you dont have to throw it away