Ask a Professional Detailer
09-20-2012, 04:33 PM
#1821
I have been reading up on the process and had a question after you apply the compound. I'm a big time newbie so I applied the Meg 105. But my question comes when I go to wipe it off, it seems the product turns very ( I'm trying to describe like a dusty powdery substance ) <- its like specs get everywhere and I try to wipe it all up with the microfiber towel but its still there and its like it gets everywhere. Is this normal or am I drying the product out to much with to many passes or the wrong speed? It just surprised me. Also I was just testing out the product and was outside so could it just have been the sun drying out the product too soon?
Also if you maybe post just your steps you take like on the first post that would be helpful to newbies like me. I have read it before but its kind of just like a mental rep process seeing it over again.
Also if you maybe post just your steps you take like on the first post that would be helpful to newbies like me. I have read it before but its kind of just like a mental rep process seeing it over again.
I know I am replying to an old post and haven't read the entire thread yet....but.
This is a result of working the 105 too hard and the PC speed too high with too much product, to prevent this.....
Pre load the pad lightly with 105, use 4-5 dots of product on the pad
Work it in on speed 4 in a 18x18 inch spot.
Spray the CAR(not the pad) area with a squirt of water and work the slurry in.
Go to 5-6 speed on the buffer for another pass and wipe up.
This will stop the white dots from flying off the pad and sticking to the car, they are hell to get off.
09-20-2012, 06:28 PM
#1822
If 105 is is drying up like that you are either 1. working it too long 2. using too much product. The work time for 105 is only about 30 seconds, 45 max.
Proper priming of the pad is crucial with 105. I started using the Kevin Brown method and helped tremendously. I had a lot of dusting and was hard to wipe off.
Don't ever do paint correction in the sun.
There is a little bit of a learning curve w/ 105 but after you figure it out its great.
Another thing you can do that helps a lot is get some D300 and use a few pea size drops along with the 105. The D300 prevents the 105 from drying out so fast and extends the work time a little bit.
Using distilled water also helps. 105 uses non dimishing abrasives which means they don't break down and stop cutting. If there is product on the pad it will still cut. Spraying the pad once with distilled water brings the 105 back. After you mess with for a while you will know when to hit it with a spray of distilled water. Don't use normal tap water. It has too many chemicals to make it use full. Distilled water obviously doesn't have that. I have tried using detail spray but IMO distilled water works better.
After you do a 1x1 section, clean the pad off before you start your next section. Most of the time I don't add more 105 just hit it with some distilled water. You will see when you will need to add more 105 because it will be so thin it will flash pretty fast after you work a section. Again, you just have to experiement with it to find what works for you.
Make sure you keep the pad clean with a pad cleaning brush or compressed air. I prefer compressed air.
I normally use speed 5 in the PC when using 105. I have only experience w/ the LC pads. I don't know about others.
Hope this helps some. When I started using 105 I never thought I was going to get the hang of it but it just takes a little time.
Proper priming of the pad is crucial with 105. I started using the Kevin Brown method and helped tremendously. I had a lot of dusting and was hard to wipe off.
Don't ever do paint correction in the sun.
There is a little bit of a learning curve w/ 105 but after you figure it out its great.
Another thing you can do that helps a lot is get some D300 and use a few pea size drops along with the 105. The D300 prevents the 105 from drying out so fast and extends the work time a little bit.
Using distilled water also helps. 105 uses non dimishing abrasives which means they don't break down and stop cutting. If there is product on the pad it will still cut. Spraying the pad once with distilled water brings the 105 back. After you mess with for a while you will know when to hit it with a spray of distilled water. Don't use normal tap water. It has too many chemicals to make it use full. Distilled water obviously doesn't have that. I have tried using detail spray but IMO distilled water works better.
After you do a 1x1 section, clean the pad off before you start your next section. Most of the time I don't add more 105 just hit it with some distilled water. You will see when you will need to add more 105 because it will be so thin it will flash pretty fast after you work a section. Again, you just have to experiement with it to find what works for you.
Make sure you keep the pad clean with a pad cleaning brush or compressed air. I prefer compressed air.
I normally use speed 5 in the PC when using 105. I have only experience w/ the LC pads. I don't know about others.
Hope this helps some. When I started using 105 I never thought I was going to get the hang of it but it just takes a little time.
09-20-2012, 07:25 PM
#1823
When I had my Busa we used Pledge furniture polish on the front parts of the bike to stop the bugs from sticking.
It worked with no apparent damage to the paint. Bugs washed right off the next day.
We would spray it on a towel and wipe it on the bike.
09-20-2012, 07:34 PM
#1824
They are Fikse FM10s. I just bought them, and they had painted centres. I used paint stripper to take the paint off. They are slightly etched and wetsanding takes the marks off, but I would like to avoid going through this (long!) process on 4 wheels. I was hoping there is a product that might get rid of the wetsanding.
Etching:
Left spoke after a sloppy wetsanding job:
Etching:
Left spoke after a sloppy wetsanding job:
I know another one.
I have the same wheels with a similar issue.
I called Alan @ Fikse, if you have the Technipolish centers you only have two options as its a ceramic based coating.
Strip the coating by sanding and get down to and polish them out then clear coat.
Or
Powdercoat.
Technipolish doesn't respond to regular metal polish to remove imperfections.
09-21-2012, 10:11 AM
#1826
Anyone try the nanoskin autoscrub or speedy prep towel or ultima clay block yet? Any impressions vs traditional clay bar use? Thinking about picking up one of the three I mentioned.
09-21-2012, 10:16 AM
#1827
Detailing, done correctly, is an art. To achieve near flawless results, there are many necessary steps that I have previously missed in the past. Now, armed with an arsenal of equipment, products, and knowledge I can finally achieve the results I was looking for to begin with. Big thanks to Jeff as always for making this easily the best and most informational thread on ls1tech.
09-21-2012, 01:58 PM
#1828
Just picked up some torq thrust m wheels that are black with a machined lip. The previous owner said his brakes locked up and dusted the wheels so thick and cakes on that it is like a powdery rust. It comes off slow with heavy heavy scrubbing but was just wandering if there was an easier way. Any help is greatly appreciated to bring these black beutys back to life.
Are they clear coated?
If so buy this.
http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-x-cleaner.html
Spray it on ONE wheel at a time with the wheel cold, do not let it dry. spritz it to keep it damp.
09-21-2012, 03:01 PM
#1830
Okay made it to page 29 so far, I am confused about Mezerna products.
I googled "Mezerna SIP" and clicked on the Autogeek ad for it, in so many words it said SIP and 85RD are the same.
I am drunk from so much reading???
Can we get a list of Mezerna products, their cutting ability and what they are used for?
I am on the hook with info saturation.
EDIT
Google is yo friend.
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-car-care.html
I googled "Mezerna SIP" and clicked on the Autogeek ad for it, in so many words it said SIP and 85RD are the same.
I am drunk from so much reading???
Can we get a list of Mezerna products, their cutting ability and what they are used for?
I am on the hook with info saturation.
EDIT
Google is yo friend.
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-car-care.html
09-21-2012, 06:53 PM
#1831
A pic would help. I'd try a dedicated glass polish which you can get locally, or the PC and M105.
Sonax Full Effect is the best wheel cleaner on the market. Combine that with the Daytona Wheel brush and that should do it. If you still want it cleaner, you will have to pull the wheel and do it by hand.
^Not a good idea unless you know the wheels are bare metal. Metal polishes aren't to be used on clear coated wheels, which whether they are painted or "polished", 90% of them are clear coated. You care for them like you care for your paint.
Let me turn this around and ask you a question....
What's the fastest way to go down the dragstrip, Nitrous, Supercharger, Turbo, or N/A?
Thats too broad of a question. What do you use your car for? How often would you *like* to detail it? Do you like color and depth over gloss and reflectiveness? Is your car a daily driver, weekend cruiser, showcar, racecar? I could go on...... While I do want this to be an informative thread, a basic search would do you good as well since this topic comes up every week.
If you can fill me in on at least some of these questions I can definitely help you.
I'd tape off the decals with Meguiars masking tape or 3M painters tape if you're using an aggressive or moderately aggressive combination. If its a gentle combo, I wouldn't worry about it (ex: Megs 205 on LC black, or Menzerna SIP on LC white or black).
I have a HUGE array of products, but I will list my top choices in a few areas.
Car Wash:
-Zaino Z7
-Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (can be used to remove old LSP if desired)
-Meguiars Pro Line Shampoo Plus
-Blackfire soap
Clay Bars:
*All clay in the US is made by one manufacturer, the choice of grade of clay is more important than brand*
-Zaino Z18 (medium grade)
-Blackfire Poly clay (medium)
-Meguiars White clay (fine/med)
-Meguiars Red clay (aggressive)
Tire Dressing:
-Zaino Z18 (by far most versatile, you can choose the level of shine. Water based, will not sling)
-Adams Super VRT (moderate/high shine, not water based, will not sling)
-Gloss-It Signature Tire Gloss (moderate/high shine, only will sling if over-applied)
-Meguiars Pro Line Hyperdressing (moderate shine, only will sling if over-applied)
Leather:
*Use cleaner EVERY TIME before you condition. Stay away from 2-in-1 products*
-Leatherique twins (costly, long time to work, by FAR the BEST out there.)
-Zaino Z9/Z10 (cost effective, simple, smells great)
-Leather Masters (similar to Zaino)
-Lexol twins (a little pricey, thicker-application can cause use of too much product)
-Adams (cost effective, little goes a long way)
*NOTE: using leather conditioner on plastic coated leather (like ALL GM leather and 75% of most leather out there) will leave it shiny! The plasticized coating will not allow a conditioner to really soak in. So wipe it down with a slightly damp towel to knock down the shine and slickness.
Genuine leather (most BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Lamborghini, Jaguar, etc...) will soak up conditioners nicely.
Compounds:
-Meguiars 105 (numerous applications, fast cut, but short working time, use ONLY when required. Great for hard clear coats. Non-diminishing abrasives, BE AWARE OF THIS. It doesn't break down or reduce its cut)
-Menzerna Power Gloss (similar to 105, but not quite as efficient, doesn't finish down as nicely, but still good compound)
Medium to Fine polishes:
-Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
(designed for hard german ceramic clear coats....to cut fast but finish down to OEM quality. Works! PERFECT on C5/C6 corvettes and 4th/5th generation Fbody. Excellent working time, smooth, excellent gloss)
-Meguairs 205
(works similar to SIP, but has non-diminishing abrasives so the more you work it the more it cuts. It does NOT break down. Usually has a near LSP ready finish depending on pad. Very versatile without being too aggressive, numerous types of applications including on interior pieces and engines.
-Menzerna PO203
-(Similar to SIP, but ideal for 1-step applications, great working time, finishes down with more gloss. Works best on European paints, most notably Porsche and Audi)
-Menzerna 106FA
-(also designed for hard ceramic clears. Designed for use after SIP. Finishing polish. Leaves superb gloss. Good working time)
-Menzerna FPII
-(similar to 106FA, but not made for hard clears. Delivers exceptional gloss and clarity)
-Menzerna PO85RD
-(minimal cutting ability. This is designed for enhancing gloss and clarity to its highest degree, ie jeweling. Longest working time of any product I've used. The more you work it, the better it gets. It simply does not get better than this for a finishing polish.)
*NOTE: Always use an isoprophyl alcohol wipedown to strip polishing oils BEFORE applying your wax or sealant, or you risk it not bonding properly and severely shortening its durability.
Ok I wrote way more than I intended to, but I hope that helps!
You have tint on the sail panel?? How did it get there? Is it the adhesive tint residue? It might be the bubbling issue with our tops, they seep out the adhesive that holds the top together and it can look like that and that is about the correct size. Polishing should remove it.
The specs could also be shoe polish from the track. Either way, a NEW flat razor blade should do the trick. Make sure to use a Stainless Steel one.
Sonax Full Effect is the best wheel cleaner on the market. Combine that with the Daytona Wheel brush and that should do it. If you still want it cleaner, you will have to pull the wheel and do it by hand.
^Not a good idea unless you know the wheels are bare metal. Metal polishes aren't to be used on clear coated wheels, which whether they are painted or "polished", 90% of them are clear coated. You care for them like you care for your paint.
Let me turn this around and ask you a question....
What's the fastest way to go down the dragstrip, Nitrous, Supercharger, Turbo, or N/A?
Thats too broad of a question. What do you use your car for? How often would you *like* to detail it? Do you like color and depth over gloss and reflectiveness? Is your car a daily driver, weekend cruiser, showcar, racecar? I could go on...... While I do want this to be an informative thread, a basic search would do you good as well since this topic comes up every week.
If you can fill me in on at least some of these questions I can definitely help you.
I'd tape off the decals with Meguiars masking tape or 3M painters tape if you're using an aggressive or moderately aggressive combination. If its a gentle combo, I wouldn't worry about it (ex: Megs 205 on LC black, or Menzerna SIP on LC white or black).
I have a HUGE array of products, but I will list my top choices in a few areas.
Car Wash:
-Zaino Z7
-Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (can be used to remove old LSP if desired)
-Meguiars Pro Line Shampoo Plus
-Blackfire soap
Clay Bars:
*All clay in the US is made by one manufacturer, the choice of grade of clay is more important than brand*
-Zaino Z18 (medium grade)
-Blackfire Poly clay (medium)
-Meguiars White clay (fine/med)
-Meguiars Red clay (aggressive)
Tire Dressing:
-Zaino Z18 (by far most versatile, you can choose the level of shine. Water based, will not sling)
-Adams Super VRT (moderate/high shine, not water based, will not sling)
-Gloss-It Signature Tire Gloss (moderate/high shine, only will sling if over-applied)
-Meguiars Pro Line Hyperdressing (moderate shine, only will sling if over-applied)
Leather:
*Use cleaner EVERY TIME before you condition. Stay away from 2-in-1 products*
-Leatherique twins (costly, long time to work, by FAR the BEST out there.)
-Zaino Z9/Z10 (cost effective, simple, smells great)
-Leather Masters (similar to Zaino)
-Lexol twins (a little pricey, thicker-application can cause use of too much product)
-Adams (cost effective, little goes a long way)
*NOTE: using leather conditioner on plastic coated leather (like ALL GM leather and 75% of most leather out there) will leave it shiny! The plasticized coating will not allow a conditioner to really soak in. So wipe it down with a slightly damp towel to knock down the shine and slickness.
Genuine leather (most BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Lamborghini, Jaguar, etc...) will soak up conditioners nicely.
Compounds:
-Meguiars 105 (numerous applications, fast cut, but short working time, use ONLY when required. Great for hard clear coats. Non-diminishing abrasives, BE AWARE OF THIS. It doesn't break down or reduce its cut)
-Menzerna Power Gloss (similar to 105, but not quite as efficient, doesn't finish down as nicely, but still good compound)
Medium to Fine polishes:
-Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
(designed for hard german ceramic clear coats....to cut fast but finish down to OEM quality. Works! PERFECT on C5/C6 corvettes and 4th/5th generation Fbody. Excellent working time, smooth, excellent gloss)
-Meguairs 205
(works similar to SIP, but has non-diminishing abrasives so the more you work it the more it cuts. It does NOT break down. Usually has a near LSP ready finish depending on pad. Very versatile without being too aggressive, numerous types of applications including on interior pieces and engines.
-Menzerna PO203
-(Similar to SIP, but ideal for 1-step applications, great working time, finishes down with more gloss. Works best on European paints, most notably Porsche and Audi)
-Menzerna 106FA
-(also designed for hard ceramic clears. Designed for use after SIP. Finishing polish. Leaves superb gloss. Good working time)
-Menzerna FPII
-(similar to 106FA, but not made for hard clears. Delivers exceptional gloss and clarity)
-Menzerna PO85RD
-(minimal cutting ability. This is designed for enhancing gloss and clarity to its highest degree, ie jeweling. Longest working time of any product I've used. The more you work it, the better it gets. It simply does not get better than this for a finishing polish.)
*NOTE: Always use an isoprophyl alcohol wipedown to strip polishing oils BEFORE applying your wax or sealant, or you risk it not bonding properly and severely shortening its durability.
Ok I wrote way more than I intended to, but I hope that helps!
You have tint on the sail panel?? How did it get there? Is it the adhesive tint residue? It might be the bubbling issue with our tops, they seep out the adhesive that holds the top together and it can look like that and that is about the correct size. Polishing should remove it.
The specs could also be shoe polish from the track. Either way, a NEW flat razor blade should do the trick. Make sure to use a Stainless Steel one.
09-21-2012, 09:22 PM
#1834
Well I used the Sonax wheel cleaner and Chemical Guys metal shine the other day. I noticed the Sonax didn't really clean much because my wheels and brakes were pretty damn clean already but it did get in some hard to reach places. As for the Chemical Guys metal shine it worked pretty good. I think it would work better if I were to do another application or 2 because I still have some water spots although much smaller than before.
Only complaint I have is with the Sonax wheel cleaner. You really have to wash the **** out of the wheels afterwards because I guess I didn't spend enough time on the first wheel I did and the next day I saw where some had pooled up at the bottom of the rim and stained it a little. Hoping another application of Sonax will clean it up and then polish it out.
Side note, I have (2) Mothers foam like powerball's here. Is it safe for polished aluminum uncoated wheels and will I get better results from this on a drill as opposed to applying the polish and rubbing by hand?
Only complaint I have is with the Sonax wheel cleaner. You really have to wash the **** out of the wheels afterwards because I guess I didn't spend enough time on the first wheel I did and the next day I saw where some had pooled up at the bottom of the rim and stained it a little. Hoping another application of Sonax will clean it up and then polish it out.
Side note, I have (2) Mothers foam like powerball's here. Is it safe for polished aluminum uncoated wheels and will I get better results from this on a drill as opposed to applying the polish and rubbing by hand?
09-21-2012, 10:17 PM
#1835
I used the Flitz ball w/ the Flitz polish. Took the defects out but left a lot of marring.
So I tried the mothers power cone with the aluminum polish and it still left marring.
I used the mothers mag aluminum paste on a microfiber and that yielded the best results. I don't know how I'm going to get them looking any better. I don't know if the aluminum on these wheels is soft or what.
Just my experience with in the past few days.
09-22-2012, 07:32 AM
#1837
I have a set of polished ZR1 rims I'm doing now. I used the Flitz pre cleaner(which I was very impressed by)
I used the Flitz ball w/ the Flitz polish. Took the defects out but left a lot of marring.
So I tried the mothers power cone with the aluminum polish and it still left marring.
I used the mothers mag aluminum paste on a microfiber and that yielded the best results. I don't know how I'm going to get them looking any better. I don't know if the aluminum on these wheels is soft or what.
Just my experience with in the past few days.
I used the Flitz ball w/ the Flitz polish. Took the defects out but left a lot of marring.
So I tried the mothers power cone with the aluminum polish and it still left marring.
I used the mothers mag aluminum paste on a microfiber and that yielded the best results. I don't know how I'm going to get them looking any better. I don't know if the aluminum on these wheels is soft or what.
Just my experience with in the past few days.
Look back trough this thread and read, Jeff shows you how to make clear coated wheels POP.
09-22-2012, 10:10 AM
#1839
I have a set of polished ZR1 rims I'm doing now. I used the Flitz pre cleaner(which I was very impressed by)
I used the Flitz ball w/ the Flitz polish. Took the defects out but left a lot of marring.
So I tried the mothers power cone with the aluminum polish and it still left marring.
I used the mothers mag aluminum paste on a microfiber and that yielded the best results. I don't know how I'm going to get them looking any better. I don't know if the aluminum on these wheels is soft or what.
Just my experience with in the past few days.
I used the Flitz ball w/ the Flitz polish. Took the defects out but left a lot of marring.
So I tried the mothers power cone with the aluminum polish and it still left marring.
I used the mothers mag aluminum paste on a microfiber and that yielded the best results. I don't know how I'm going to get them looking any better. I don't know if the aluminum on these wheels is soft or what.
Just my experience with in the past few days.
They are Fikse's so they are not coated. I already have White Diamond and its pretty good stuff. I bought the Chemical Guys metal shine based on Jeff's recommendation.
09-22-2012, 10:23 AM
#1840
For normal washes I use the Sonax. I really like it. I used the Flitz pre cleaner on these wheels because they were such bad shape and I knew I would be polishing them afterwards. If I understand it right the pre cleaner isn't intended to be used as a maintence item like the Sonax, I could be wrong though. I think the Flitz is more of an acid type cleaner.