tnmotown

iTrader: (107)

Hey Jeff, I just recently got this kit for Christmas:
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-por...ble-combo.html

Is it a good kit to get some basic swirls out? anything else that might be needed? And that big soft white pad that comes with it, thats for applying the wax/sealant right? Thanks bud!

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Well the machine is good, the products are ok. The pads are good but are a bit large for the PC. 5.5" pads are better, you get more rotation and they conform better to the panels.

As for the big white one that comes in the PC box, break that one out the next time you want to polish your bath tub, because that's about all its good for. I'd never use that one on the paint.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Paint correction on my bathtub....If my wife came home and found me doing that I think she might leave. HA!

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

I actually polished out the hard water spots on the tub and shower at my parent's house back when I lived there. Mom thought I was nuts, Dad just kinda laughed..... both were floored when I was done and it was perfect in 10 min.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

You need help man.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Jeff while you on here I want to ask a quick question. What's the difference between the M101 and M100?

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Quite possibly! But this thread was born out of that craziness.

A promise keeps me from going into detail, but they both cut like crazy and both are VERY worthwhile compounds to have and must be RESPECTED or they will hurt you when you let your attention waiver for a split second. M100 has a better working time but its more slippery on the pad.... Don't apply it at an angle because it might run off the pad, but its still a thick liquid.

I haven't used it with a DA yet but have heard positive results about it. I will say that for rotary use, M100 decimates defects faster than anything I've ever used, even M101...yet its not a replacement for M101....hard to explain. But I would never give one up for the other, I want them both.............
English or Metric sockets....you'll find a fit with either one, they are just a little different but both are great tools to have in your arsenal.

In a head-to-head battle rotary/wool M101 vs M100 I would go with M100. It almost cuts too fast. Yet somehow it still finishes down well.

You might be more confused now after all that lol.... give it a try and post your thoughts. Perhaps another can word it better than I.

GoFast908Z

iTrader: (12)

Sightings are rare these days lol. Gotta catch me when I pop my head up from time to time.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Who can reiterate the best way to clean MF towels and to clean pads? I know its been covered and I remember reading it when I went through the whole thread back in August but for some reason I didnt take note of it and I dont remember much.

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Cool/cold and gentle setting on washing machine with a little bit of microfiber rejuvinator.
Air dry if possible, or LOWEST HEAT SETTING POSSIBLE on dryer. High heat and/or dryer sheets will **** them up.

That is what I do...taken from Junkman's instructions.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Alright, air dry is no problem. What if you dont have the MF rejuvinator? I assume laundry detergant is no good, maybe a little bit of dawn?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

To clean the MF pads this is what works best for me.

1. When you get done using the pad, blow it out with compressed air with the pad on the machine but with he machine turned off, move the the middle out towards the edge and back. This blows most of the compound out and stands the fibers up. I normally have my compressor set around 80psi for this.

2. Spray Dawn Power Dissolver on the pad and let it sit, work some of the PD into the pad with your fingers.

3. Washing machine on normal with cold or warm water. Hot's no good.

4. Dry on low setting. Again hot is no good. I made that mistake and the heat kills the foam on the pad.

I made the mistake of not blowing out the pad after I was done with it. I forgot to wash them and they dried with the fibers matted down. I washed and dried them and thought they were good till the next time I went to use them. I couldn't believe how much compound will still in the pad even though it looked clean. It took SEVERAL washes to get them clean.

I use Tide Free or Cheer Free to wash them. Both had no dyes or perfumes. I'm not saying its right or the best, but for me it has worked well with no loss in pad performance.

egott_91

iTrader: (1)

I cannot comment on microfiber pads as I do not have any.

For towels:

A liquid laundry detergent, no granulated, can be substituted. Make sure it is a dye/perfume free product.

Also, do a second rinse for the towels if you have a machine that is equipped with it.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I have a question about a rough-feeling paint finish.
After the car was painted and cleared, the paint was perfectly smooth-no roughness.
After some time, and a coat of wax, the paint became rough.
By accident, I used some Mother's wax/cleaner on it (brand new container), rather than straight wax/protector. Could this have caused the paint to feel rough? Before using the wax, the car was cleaned perfectly, using chamois cloth & the best cleaner.
Also, it seems that those areas that are roughest, are the same areas that are exposed most to wind/dirt abrasion.
This is, by no means, a deluxe paint/clear job.
One wouldn't be able to detect the rough, by looking at it. The paint looks great.
Do you have some suggestions?
Thanks!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Has the car been clayed recently?

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

No, Jay...I wasn't sure what the recommendation should be, and not knowing much about all of this, I let it be.
Right now, there is an additional coat of regular Mother's wax on the car.
Would clay remove the clear?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

The clay won't remove the clear. Clay is designed to remove above surface bonded contaminants. This is just a fancy way of saying it removes dirt thats stuck in the clear coat. When using you clay you use some sort of detail spray as a lubricant. The clay slides over the clear coat and grabs the dirt/contaminants that is stuck in the clear coat.

Depending on how much you drive the car you should clay your car twice a year.

Claying your car gets all the junk out of your clear coat which helps your wax bond to the clear coat longer which helps your wax to stay on the car later.

When you start to clay your car you will feel and hear the dirt bonded to the clear coat. After a few passes it will start to smooth you and then the clay wiill glide over it.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

I'll give this a try in the spring.
Thanks, Jay!

egott_91

iTrader: (1)

My suggestion would be to clay also. On a daily driver I've heard suggestions of claying as often as you change your oil. I usually do it at least 2 times a year on the truck, in the spring and fall. The SS rarely sees rain or anything so it usually only gets clayed in the spring.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

If you aren't familiar with how to clay your car here's a link to one of Mike Phillips videos from Autogeek.

http://www.autogeek.net/video-clay.html

Junkman also has a lot of great video's on Youtube if you are interested in learning how to do more than claying.

This thread is also a great resource too.