gMAG

iTrader: (1)

This video is just the thing, and what the moderator describes, is exactly what is going on with my paint, and explains why the rough parts are those on top ("horizontal"), and those exposed to air currents.
I'm psyched about using the clay to correct the paint finish.
Thanks, Gents!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Sweet man. Glad it helped you out.

AWDTBSS

I'd suggest using the plastic sandwich baggy trick to make sure you got rid of all the contaminants. All you need is a plastic bag I use a sandwich bag and just stick your hand inside it and gently glide it over your paint to see if you need to keep claying that section or your good to go

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Quoted for truth. I didn't mention that because I thought it was covered in Mike Phillips video.

dabest09

iTrader: (1)

Spot on. I'd say a daily driver truly needs clayed every 4-6 months. Maybe even more often depending on how often it is washed and what lsp is on it. I used to HATE claying with a passion until I got my speedy prep towel. Now I don't mind doing it as much. Makes sealing and waxing like a breeze.

egott_91

iTrader: (1)

Just to be clear, the clay will not do any amount of paint correction, it will only remove the contamination that is present on the clear.

blknSS

Maybe this was answered in this thread....its kind of long so refer me to what post if it has been answered.
I desperately need to degrease/clean the engine bay. Nervous as hell to be spraying gunk and water around all that expensive electrical ****. Tips/trick/advice? Thanks in advance.

egott_91

iTrader: (1)

Most modern vehicles you're fine spraying the motor down.

1) make sure the engine isn't hot/warm
2) cover any exposed filters
3) use a light stream of water (fan spray)
4) spray a degreaser/all purpose cleaner
5) use a brush to get into the nooks, crevices, crannies
6) let dwell for a few minutes
7) spray off degreaser/all purpose cleaner with a light stream of water
8) use a leaf blower/compressed air/car dryer to remove standing water
9) turn engine on and let it idle to burn off the remaining water (after removing the covered filters)
10) once engine is cool after letting it idle, apply a dressing to the plastics to protect them and just make them look 100 times better. Just don't use anything too greasy or it'll collect a **** ton of dust... Best bet would be to apply the dressing and then knock it down by going back over it with a towel

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

It's also a good idea to cover the pcm, alternator and relay/fuse center with aluminum foil or plastic wrap to prevent water from getting in there.

Try and use a non silicon base spray for the engine compartment. It doesn't attract dust and doesn't have that 'just bought it from the dealership look' unless you like that kinda thing.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

We live closeby & downstream to the highway. At times, you can smell the pollutants in the air, especially when the air is cool, and forces the pollutants
to hang low. I think that alot of the crud on the paint is just that.
Looks like the car will be done at least a couple of times a year.

05TurboCGM

I have this on my beater which looks like some bad water spots. You think some m105/205 combo would take this off?

TxOutlawZ28

I recommend superbrightleds.com and use RET71 as a coupon for 5% off.

anyone know what item number is for the lights in rearview mirror and where I may be able to find a write up on install thanks in advance

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

hey man thanks so much for doing this thread, i've had a question about my wheels and just wanted to know where to start, i bought some aluminum drag wheels and 1 day while cleaning the tires with bleach white it got on the wheels and damn near destroyed them, there's white powdery stuff all over the finish and stained like crazy. How can i get the wheels back to new or almost new?

DropTopBird

iTrader: (17)

Whats the best way to get road paint off a car? The lady got stuck on the turnpike behind a paint truck and got some spray on her car.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

I remember Jeff touching on this earlier in the thread. Road paint is meant to take a beating and from what I remember its near impossible to remove. I think Jeff told a story how some exotic got road paint on a lot of the car and it was totaled..

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

From what I can tell from the pic that looks like that's in the base coat not on top. It looks like there was some sort of issue between the primer/sealer and the base coat. I had the same thing happen on a fiberglass hood I painted last year. I had to sand it back down and use a different sealer to make it work. Again I very well could be wrong.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

How bad is it? Can you get a pic?

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

After you clean the wheels good, making sure all dirt/brake dust off of them try Mothers mag/aluminum wheel polish with a microfiber towel and see if that takes it off. If that's not aggressive enough you can use the Mothers w/ 0000 steel wool. That combo will leave some marring which you will have to go back over with the Mothers/MF. I have found that's the best way to do the "correction" part and that Adam's Metal Polish 1&2 after that with a good MF. Here are a few pics of the wheels on my T/A. They were stained, pitted with brake dust.

Before


After

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

There is some fine pitting but you have to get really close with a bright light to see it. Only way to fix that is wet sanding and for what the car is used for there wasn't any reason to go that far with it.

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

ok yeah i tried just mothers and it did help but i need something more aggressive so i will try the steel wool, thanks alot for the info man, i don't have any pitting just really bad stains and dull, those wheels look 10 times better than the top pic, what brand steel wool do you prefer?