adams wheel polish 1and2

 

I assume you are using a PC. If so, make sure that the Meg's 105 you are using says it is for Rotary or DA use. The first formulation was rotary only, and is very difficult to remove if being used with a DA or PC.

As GoFast said - never in the sun or on hot paint. You could also be using too much product, over working the product, or using it on severely oxidized paint.

 

whats the best wax/sealant to use on my car?

 

GoFast, what would be your suggestion for using a porter cable to buff a Camaro with anniversary stripe decals?

Is there any harm in damaging the decals? The paint has swirls on the hood, so it does need to be buffed.

 

I'd mainly like to know what products you use. Not pads and rags but what car wash, clay bars for what applications, tire dressing, interior (saw the leather conditioner in a previous post), what compound for what application, etc. I'm pretty versed on 105 & 205 now but why Minzerna at times, etc.

 

I have what I believe to be remains of window tint on my sail panel. It's about 1/4" long and probably 2mm wide. I've tried claying it off with no results.

Also I have white specs on my backglass. I sort of imagine it to be paint since the car has been hit and the quarter panel has been repaired.

What do you suggest to fix this?

 

A pic would help. I'd try a dedicated glass polish which you can get locally, or the PC and M105.

Sonax Full Effect is the best wheel cleaner on the market. Combine that with the Daytona Wheel brush and that should do it. If you still want it cleaner, you will have to pull the wheel and do it by hand.

^Not a good idea unless you know the wheels are bare metal. Metal polishes aren't to be used on clear coated wheels, which whether they are painted or "polished", 90% of them are clear coated. You care for them like you care for your paint.

Let me turn this around and ask you a question....

What's the fastest way to go down the dragstrip, Nitrous, Supercharger, Turbo, or N/A?

Thats too broad of a question. What do you use your car for? How often would you *like* to detail it? Do you like color and depth over gloss and reflectiveness? Is your car a daily driver, weekend cruiser, showcar, racecar? I could go on...... While I do want this to be an informative thread, a basic search would do you good as well since this topic comes up every week.

If you can fill me in on at least some of these questions I can definitely help you.


I'd tape off the decals with Meguiars masking tape or 3M painters tape if you're using an aggressive or moderately aggressive combination. If its a gentle combo, I wouldn't worry about it (ex: Megs 205 on LC black, or Menzerna SIP on LC white or black).


I have a HUGE array of products, but I will list my top choices in a few areas.

Car Wash:
-Zaino Z7
-Chemical Guys Citrus Wash (can be used to remove old LSP if desired)
-Meguiars Pro Line Shampoo Plus
-Blackfire soap

Clay Bars:
*All clay in the US is made by one manufacturer, the choice of grade of clay is more important than brand*
-Zaino Z18 (medium grade)
-Blackfire Poly clay (medium)
-Meguiars White clay (fine/med)
-Meguiars Red clay (aggressive)


Tire Dressing:
-Zaino Z18 (by far most versatile, you can choose the level of shine. Water based, will not sling)
-Adams Super VRT (moderate/high shine, not water based, will not sling)
-Gloss-It Signature Tire Gloss (moderate/high shine, only will sling if over-applied)
-Meguiars Pro Line Hyperdressing (moderate shine, only will sling if over-applied)


Leather:
*Use cleaner EVERY TIME before you condition. Stay away from 2-in-1 products*
-Leatherique twins (costly, long time to work, by FAR the BEST out there.)
-Zaino Z9/Z10 (cost effective, simple, smells great)
-Leather Masters (similar to Zaino)
-Lexol twins (a little pricey, thicker-application can cause use of too much product)
-Adams (cost effective, little goes a long way)

*NOTE: using leather conditioner on plastic coated leather (like ALL GM leather and 75% of most leather out there) will leave it shiny! The plasticized coating will not allow a conditioner to really soak in. So wipe it down with a slightly damp towel to knock down the shine and slickness.

Genuine leather (most BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Lamborghini, Jaguar, etc...) will soak up conditioners nicely.



Compounds:
-Meguiars 105 (numerous applications, fast cut, but short working time, use ONLY when required. Great for hard clear coats. Non-diminishing abrasives, BE AWARE OF THIS. It doesn't break down or reduce its cut)

-Menzerna Power Gloss (similar to 105, but not quite as efficient, doesn't finish down as nicely, but still good compound)


Medium to Fine polishes:
-Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
(designed for hard german ceramic clear coats....to cut fast but finish down to OEM quality. Works! PERFECT on C5/C6 corvettes and 4th/5th generation Fbody. Excellent working time, smooth, excellent gloss)

-Meguairs 205
(works similar to SIP, but has non-diminishing abrasives so the more you work it the more it cuts. It does NOT break down. Usually has a near LSP ready finish depending on pad. Very versatile without being too aggressive, numerous types of applications including on interior pieces and engines.

-Menzerna PO203
-(Similar to SIP, but ideal for 1-step applications, great working time, finishes down with more gloss. Works best on European paints, most notably Porsche and Audi)

-Menzerna 106FA
-(also designed for hard ceramic clears. Designed for use after SIP. Finishing polish. Leaves superb gloss. Good working time)

-Menzerna FPII
-(similar to 106FA, but not made for hard clears. Delivers exceptional gloss and clarity)

-Menzerna PO85RD
-(minimal cutting ability. This is designed for enhancing gloss and clarity to its highest degree, ie jeweling. Longest working time of any product I've used. The more you work it, the better it gets. It simply does not get better than this for a finishing polish.)



*NOTE: Always use an isoprophyl alcohol wipedown to strip polishing oils BEFORE applying your wax or sealant, or you risk it not bonding properly and severely shortening its durability.



Ok I wrote way more than I intended to, but I hope that helps!


You have tint on the sail panel?? How did it get there? Is it the adhesive tint residue? It might be the bubbling issue with our tops, they seep out the adhesive that holds the top together and it can look like that and that is about the correct size. Polishing should remove it.

The specs could also be shoe polish from the track. Either way, a NEW flat razor blade should do the trick. Make sure to use a Stainless Steel one.

 

Lexol 1115 Leather pH Cleaner Spray and Lexol 1015 Leather Conditioner Spray
are those the duo?

 

Yes it is.

 

thanks ordering now. was using meguiars 2in1

 

I believe it's tint because it appeared after having my windows retinted. It's on the side about 9 inches from the bottom of the panel, and right next to the back glass.

 

Is it actual tint film or just residue from it? If its really from the tinting, some Johnson & Johnson's Baby Shampoo (no tears kind) mixed in a spray bottle with water will soften the adhesive and make removal easy. This is what I use (plus plastic razor blade) to remove old window tint film.

 

haha yeah i see what you mean. my car never see's rain but i usually take it out 3-4 night a week to shows or what not if its nice. i dont mind waxing it once a month. and i would rather have color and depth. the car has new paint and wetsanded pretty flat too.

 

That helps alot! Thanks for the reply! I have one more questions about the alcohol wipedown. I take it you wipe it down after washing and compounding, then apply wax or polish?

 

1) I had a bird dropping on my car that sat in the sun for 2-3 hours (I was in class when it happened). Of course I cleaned it as soon as I saw it. When I got home I used a lot of different products to try to remove it. Its almost completely gone, but you can see the faint outline of the bird dropping.

It looks like this, but not AS bad and about 1/4 the size.




2) Also, I have small spots of what I believe to be oxidation on various spots on my driver door. Its extremely difficult to see it. The angle has to be just right and the sun has to be extremely harsh. Is it possible to remove this by hand or do I need a buffer?

3) Lastly, what is the BEST way to remove stubborn hard water spotted windows? These annoy me so much. My car will look beautiful after a wash, but when I go up close I can see the hard water spots on the window. I've tried claybarring and it didn't do anything really.

Thanks man!!

 

Thought of another one...........

Do you have any set time-frame in which you replace your pads, wash mits, rags etc or do you go by look and feel?

 

I am pretty new at detailing and my question is have you seen any kits that an array of products that would cover all bases for newbies like me wanting to up keep their cars better. IMO i think my car's paint look great for 11yrs old but still needs a lot of work and i want it to keep the original paint. Also what are some tips would you suggest to newbies on using the Porter cable?

 

Is your car black? If so, Pinnacle Sovereign can not be beat on black. Not the cheapest stuff, but it looks amazing on black. The durability is only about 4 weeks, so you would have to do it every month.

Blackfire Wet Diamond is also gonna give you the color and depth. Goes on and off easier than any product I've used, and has a 3-4 month durability.

 

You wipe it down after polishing. Compounding must always be followed by polishing. After polishing, do the IPA wipedown, then apply your wax or sealant.

 

1) That is etching on the clear coat. It will have to be polished off. Try some Megs 105 and 205 on the PC. If that wont do it, it would require wetsanding.

2) I'd have to see it to know whether its oxidation, etching, or clear coat thinning/failure.

3) Like a previous answer above, a glass polish should be all you need. You can get that locally at an autoparts store.