Ask a Professional Detailer
I have a '94 Cadillac which has a great factory paint job in fairly good shape. Before using a sealer I wash then use Mothers Gold Pre-wax cleaner by hand. Want to get the PC and use for this along with paint correction. What LC flat pad should I use with that product or should a different procedure be used other than clay? I also have an '02 Trans Am. Should both those cars be treated as having a hard clear coat when selecting paint correction products? Thank you!
As far as compounds go I would start with M205 and see what that does. The only way to know for sure is to do a test spot.
If you are asking these basic questions my suggestion is read this thread several times. All of these things have been covered.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 312
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
It takes a special buffing pad to buff glass. We do it at my shop. (Novus Auto Glass). Since it's a lot harder then clear paint. Also if you can feel it with your finger nail it's too deep, and it will always leave a distortion where the scratch/wiper mark is. Best thing to do is replace the glass.
9 Second Club
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Eagle River, Alaska
^^ that's good. That's common to have on windshields that get the wipers used more often. An option to try is at Target or a glass shop, get a product called Aquapel and apply that. It's a water repellant.
I do have the wiper scape mark on mine and it's way too deep to buff out without distorting the glass a lot. So I've left most of it alone.
That Eastwood kit is close to what I use on finer scratches in windshields (laminated glass). On tempered door glass that kit won't beable to cut hard enough to do anything though.
I do have the wiper scape mark on mine and it's way too deep to buff out without distorting the glass a lot. So I've left most of it alone.
That Eastwood kit is close to what I use on finer scratches in windshields (laminated glass). On tempered door glass that kit won't beable to cut hard enough to do anything though.
They are my favorite MF pad thus far. Obviously, they are a little more pricey than the Optimum and Meguiars pads. However, I have noticed they seem much more durable than the Meguiars MF pads, and seem to cut a tad bit better than both the Optimum and Meguiars. I have pretty much used entirely MF pads on my porter cable for correction, and used the foam pads on my Makita rotary. I find that many of my correction work has been with my DA/LC MF pad combo lately because it is quick and efficient. Don't get me wrong though, when heavy correction is needed I still usually bust out the Makita but for practically everything else, the DA/MF combo does the job. These LC MF pads are my new "go to" MF pad, and I would highly suggest them.
I was going to pick up some microfiber pads with the buffer and pad sale AG is having. Is there a learning curve to them? Or use them just like foam pads? They seem a lot easier to clean from what I've seen.
They are my favorite MF pad thus far. Obviously, they are a little more pricey than the Optimum and Meguiars pads. However, I have noticed they seem much more durable than the Meguiars MF pads, and seem to cut a tad bit better than both the Optimum and Meguiars. I have pretty much used entirely MF pads on my porter cable for correction, and used the foam pads on my Makita rotary. I find that many of my correction work has been with my DA/LC MF pad combo lately because it is quick and efficient. Don't get me wrong though, when heavy correction is needed I still usually bust out the Makita but for practically everything else, the DA/MF combo does the job. These LC MF pads are my new "go to" MF pad, and I would highly suggest them.
Cleaning them up is about the same. I started using Dawn Power Dissolver. I have used Meg's APC, Simple Green and some Pinnacle stuff and like the Dawn the best. It's pretty popular on Autopia too.
The Meg's MF are machine washable. I tried them in the washing machine a few times but they didn't come that clean. Now I shoot them with the Dawn PD and let them sit 5-10 minutes then rinse them out by hand under hot/warm water. After I squeeze them out I throw them in the dryer.
With the MF pads or the foam pads for that matter I use the cleaning brush to knock off most of the heavy stuff before I wash them, it makes cleaning them a lot easier.
MF pads and M105 is an awesome combo and can do some serious correction. The hood on the Camaro I'm doing needs wet sanded. I think I am going to get some Surbuf pads and test them out.
J
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area
He did like a week long detailing trip last week so I bet he's recovering from that lol. I gave him one of my LC MF pads so you will prolly hear what he does and doesnt like about them.
I'd wash them before use, it shedded like crazy lol
I'd wash them before use, it shedded like crazy lol
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
Ive got another question now. When polishing the center piece between the trail lights should I tape over the "trans Am" logo and firebird symbol? Mine are not faded at all and Id like to keep them on there.
Polish it by hand if you're that worried. I doubt going over the decal with the PC will do anything though. *correct me if I'm wrong*
Popping my head in briefly as I've been in high production mode lately......been a Euro-car summer!
Yes I have been...but no Enzo yet 
Truth.
Yes try to protect it if you like it. Its single stage red paint and will come off very easily. But might be better to just get a new vinyl decal to replace it after fully correcting the panel so its nice and even.
I agree it looks best without it.
You can actually take it off very quickly by machine. Very thin single stage paint.
You can actually take it off very quickly by machine. Very thin single stage paint.
That's awesome to hear. I am starting a full correction on another black Z28 today. I will have to pick some up, this car is going to need it. I haven't made the switch to a rotary yet and don't know if/when I will. I have considered a Flex though. From what I have read on Autopia and talking to Kevin Brown the Flex is about 20% faster than the PC. However a big part of optimizing your time with the PC is technique.
The differences with the MF pads from what I have found and talking to Jeff is you use a little more pressure than the foam. You use a little more product when priming the pad but don't add as much as you go.
Cleaning them up is about the same. I started using Dawn Power Dissolver. I have used Meg's APC, Simple Green and some Pinnacle stuff and like the Dawn the best. It's pretty popular on Autopia too.
The Meg's MF are machine washable. I tried them in the washing machine a few times but they didn't come that clean. Now I shoot them with the Dawn PD and let them sit 5-10 minutes then rinse them out by hand under hot/warm water. After I squeeze them out I throw them in the dryer.
With the MF pads or the foam pads for that matter I use the cleaning brush to knock off most of the heavy stuff before I wash them, it makes cleaning them a lot easier.
MF pads and M105 is an awesome combo and can do some serious correction. The hood on the Camaro I'm doing needs wet sanded. I think I am going to get some Surbuf pads and test them out.
J
The differences with the MF pads from what I have found and talking to Jeff is you use a little more pressure than the foam. You use a little more product when priming the pad but don't add as much as you go.
Cleaning them up is about the same. I started using Dawn Power Dissolver. I have used Meg's APC, Simple Green and some Pinnacle stuff and like the Dawn the best. It's pretty popular on Autopia too.
The Meg's MF are machine washable. I tried them in the washing machine a few times but they didn't come that clean. Now I shoot them with the Dawn PD and let them sit 5-10 minutes then rinse them out by hand under hot/warm water. After I squeeze them out I throw them in the dryer.
With the MF pads or the foam pads for that matter I use the cleaning brush to knock off most of the heavy stuff before I wash them, it makes cleaning them a lot easier.
MF pads and M105 is an awesome combo and can do some serious correction. The hood on the Camaro I'm doing needs wet sanded. I think I am going to get some Surbuf pads and test them out.
J
I really enjoy these new LC MF pads, but the price is brutal!! Wish these were a little cheaper but I'm always happy to pay for quality, and thats what these are.
The surbuf pads cut like hell but finish like crap in my experiences with them. It doesn't really matter to me at least, because when you need a pad as aggressive as the surbuf is, you're going to have to finish down either way. I will say this though, everytime I have used a surbuf, I have had to do a three step on each vehicle. All of them finished fantastic though, just needed the extra polishing step.
I've been following this thread since day 1 and don't recall this ever being asked.......
My car has a slight musty odor to it. I did have a small window leak which lead some water to sit behind the drivers seat. The window was adjusted and all is good as far as sealing. This was about a year ago.
Is there any way to get rid of that smell? I've tried baking soda boxes, dryer sheets, air fresheners, etc. The only other option I can think of is deep cleaning the carpets and allowing them to dry thoroughly.
Thanks
My car has a slight musty odor to it. I did have a small window leak which lead some water to sit behind the drivers seat. The window was adjusted and all is good as far as sealing. This was about a year ago.
Is there any way to get rid of that smell? I've tried baking soda boxes, dryer sheets, air fresheners, etc. The only other option I can think of is deep cleaning the carpets and allowing them to dry thoroughly.
Thanks
I've been following this thread since day 1 and don't recall this ever being asked.......
My car has a slight musty odor to it. I did have a small window leak which lead some water to sit behind the drivers seat. The window was adjusted and all is good as far as sealing. This was about a year ago.
Is there any way to get rid of that smell? I've tried baking soda boxes, dryer sheets, air fresheners, etc. The only other option I can think of is deep cleaning the carpets and allowing them to dry thoroughly.
Thanks
My car has a slight musty odor to it. I did have a small window leak which lead some water to sit behind the drivers seat. The window was adjusted and all is good as far as sealing. This was about a year ago.
Is there any way to get rid of that smell? I've tried baking soda boxes, dryer sheets, air fresheners, etc. The only other option I can think of is deep cleaning the carpets and allowing them to dry thoroughly.
Thanks
I've been following this thread since day 1 and don't recall this ever being asked.......
My car has a slight musty odor to it. I did have a small window leak which lead some water to sit behind the drivers seat. The window was adjusted and all is good as far as sealing. This was about a year ago.
Is there any way to get rid of that smell? I've tried baking soda boxes, dryer sheets, air fresheners, etc. The only other option I can think of is deep cleaning the carpets and allowing them to dry thoroughly.
Thanks
My car has a slight musty odor to it. I did have a small window leak which lead some water to sit behind the drivers seat. The window was adjusted and all is good as far as sealing. This was about a year ago.
Is there any way to get rid of that smell? I've tried baking soda boxes, dryer sheets, air fresheners, etc. The only other option I can think of is deep cleaning the carpets and allowing them to dry thoroughly.
Thanks
Awesome!!!!! Good project for the weekend! Thanks for the reply.
Also, leave the car open for multiple days to dry out. Now that it's in a garage, you can do that. I always leave the windows open on the cars while they are in the garage so any remnant smells can dissipate.
Cleaning out the interior, then closing it up won't eliminate the odors.
Like mentioned above, pull your interior, spray the backside of the carpet with a mild bleach spray, then leave it in the sun for the day to completely dry. Then re-install a few days later in your car.
Cleaning out the interior, then closing it up won't eliminate the odors.
Like mentioned above, pull your interior, spray the backside of the carpet with a mild bleach spray, then leave it in the sun for the day to completely dry. Then re-install a few days later in your car.