Ask a Professional Detailer
08-30-2011, 12:04 PM
#122
Hey thanks bud I'll keep that in mind! I've been trying really hard to keep the car looking and running very nice while keeping costs down. Detailing is awesome, I really enjoy doing it especially when you have some good music and a few cold ones keeping me company!
GoFast- I went ahead and ordered the PorterCable. I'm done playing games, those swirls are going down.
GoFast- I went ahead and ordered the PorterCable. I'm done playing games, those swirls are going down.
08-30-2011, 06:46 PM
#126
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (26)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Waukee, Iowa
Posts: 1,564
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great thread!!! 
Any tips for cutting down on static on fiberglass parts? I some times notice it when wiping polish off & then it becomes a dust magnet...I double rinse my towels & add distilled white vinegar to the rinse cycle, but still see it from time to time.
Any tips for cutting down on static on fiberglass parts? I some times notice it when wiping polish off & then it becomes a dust magnet...I double rinse my towels & add distilled white vinegar to the rinse cycle, but still see it from time to time.
08-30-2011, 07:51 PM
#128
Ready to do some reading? You wanted perfect, so....
This is a quote from Todd Helme on Autopia Forums. So credit to him for making a flawless response to this common question.
For most people our car is the second largest investment we will make, second only to a purchase of a home or condominium. If you are a car nut like me, you will spend far more time caring about your car then you will your dwelling; maintaining and enhancing the finish of your car make's sense. Not only is it an enjoyable to spend time taking care of your car's appearance, but a gleaming ride is a sense of pride that you can recognize as the paint gleams with a luster that makes other cars on the road or in a parking lot jealous. Beyond emotional reasoning, a cosmetically maintained automobile makes financial sense. We tend to exchange our rides far more often than we would a home, so the higher resale value of a car with a high-gloss pristine finish can keep more money in our pockets.
Nothing is more responsible for the appearance of your car then the condition of your paint. Paint should appear wet and glossy, accentuating the curves and body lines. Dull, weathered, or “swirled-out” paint can greatly detract from not only your car's appearance but from the pride you take in your car. So the question arises, “How do you create and maintain a high quality finish?”
Whether you have an old classic meticulously hand painted with multiple coats of hand laid lacquer or a daily driver painted with today's anon-technology water based clear coats, the principles in this article will help not only help take your finish to the next level, but help maintain it. The principles with-in also work extremely well on motorcycles and on gel-coat finishes such as those found on most water-craft and RV's.
The first step in creating and maintaining your car's paint is to wash and dry it with precise technique. All paint systems, but particularly modern clear coat paint systems, are scratch sensitive. This means anytime dirt or grit is rubbed against the paint, even softly, it creates microscopic scratches. With enough accumulation these scratches form visible swirl marks that act to diffuse the reflected light and the paint appears dull. Larger more visible scratches form swirl marks, which are visible micro scratches that ruin the appearance of the paint in bright light. Properly washing your car greatly reduces the chances of creating micro-scratches, keeps your paint free of acidic fall-out, and removes any dirt that blankets an otherwise perfect shine. Properly washing your car using high quality materials with good technique will not only help prevent or eliminate micro-scratches, but will not strip (or may even reinforce) your existing wax coating.
How to wash properly. It wasn't too long ago that most detailers agreed that using a large volume of water with a high lubricity car soap was the safest (and perhaps most effective) way to wash your car. Advances in lubricant, polymer and surfactant technology has made other methods popular and arguably as effective. Regardless of the method chosen, certain precautions should be used to avoid scratching the paint and scuffing the finish.
Wash Media-
Wash media is defined as the material you choose to wash your car with. Whatever the wash media you choose, it should be soft so that it doesn't scratch paint, and it should hold volumes of solution.
-Natural Sheepskin or Lamb's Wool Mitts- Sheepskin or lamb's wool wash mitts remain a popular choice for good reason. Lamb's Wool is extremely soft to the touch and does not scratch paint. The long nap and large surface area hold grit and dirt off the surface to prevent scratching while allowing the mitt to hold copious amounts of soap solution. The Autopia Sheepskin Wash mitt is an excellent and affordable choice for a long lasting natural wash mitt. For those who want something more extravagant we carry the Dodo Juice Supernatural “Wookie's Fist” wash mitt. This mitt is four times more plush than a standard mitt and made from 100% Merino wool, the softest and most gentle wool in the world.
-Microfiber Towels or Wash Mitts- Microfiber wash mitts or towels are a popular choice for rinse-less and waterless wash media, but work remarkably well for traditional wash methods. Microfiber is an extremely soft man made material that will hold an ample amount of solution. Microfiber comes in various densities and pile length; for washing you will want to use a plush microfiber made from high quality material. I recommend using a Pinnacle Microfiber Detailing Mitt, or a Carrand Max Premium microfiber Wash Sponge.
-Sponges- Wash sponges remain a popular choice for car enthusiasts around the world. While sponges sacrifice a long soft nap they make up the difference with the ability to rinse clean and their long lasting durability. Wash sponges hold a huge amount of solution making them ideal for all washing methods. Sponges can either be man made or carefully hand selected from the ocean. Each wash sponge sold by Autopia-CarCare has been tested to be gentle to paint. The Lake Country Ulti-Mitts hold huge amounts of solution and are extremely soft, while the Lake Country Foam Car Wash sponge uses a specially made foam that traps and holds dirt far from the paint's surface.
Todd says: I generally use a gold Lake Country Ulti-Mitt for general washing duties, and a soft blue Cobra Microfiber towel for washing more difficult areas, creases, behind the hood handles, and other areas I cannot fully reach with a sponge. I have used everything from a natural sea-sponge to a sheepskin wash mitt and all are paint safe. The best wash media is going to be the one you are most comfortable with, but always remember to keep your wash media clean and free of paint damaging grit and dirt.
A final note on wash media: Perhaps more important than the actual selection of the wash media is how it is cared for. Using your favorite wash media on heavily soiled areas such as the wheel wells or on the wheels will impregnate them with hard to remove grit. Instead use a separate wash media for those areas. Also, we recommend rinsing out your wash media after washing each section. The most effective way of doing this is to have a separate 5 gallon bucket filled with water to rinse and wring your media into.
Nothing is more responsible for the appearance of your car then the condition of your paint. Paint should appear wet and glossy, accentuating the curves and body lines. Dull, weathered, or “swirled-out” paint can greatly detract from not only your car's appearance but from the pride you take in your car. So the question arises, “How do you create and maintain a high quality finish?”
Whether you have an old classic meticulously hand painted with multiple coats of hand laid lacquer or a daily driver painted with today's anon-technology water based clear coats, the principles in this article will help not only help take your finish to the next level, but help maintain it. The principles with-in also work extremely well on motorcycles and on gel-coat finishes such as those found on most water-craft and RV's.
The first step in creating and maintaining your car's paint is to wash and dry it with precise technique. All paint systems, but particularly modern clear coat paint systems, are scratch sensitive. This means anytime dirt or grit is rubbed against the paint, even softly, it creates microscopic scratches. With enough accumulation these scratches form visible swirl marks that act to diffuse the reflected light and the paint appears dull. Larger more visible scratches form swirl marks, which are visible micro scratches that ruin the appearance of the paint in bright light. Properly washing your car greatly reduces the chances of creating micro-scratches, keeps your paint free of acidic fall-out, and removes any dirt that blankets an otherwise perfect shine. Properly washing your car using high quality materials with good technique will not only help prevent or eliminate micro-scratches, but will not strip (or may even reinforce) your existing wax coating.
How to wash properly. It wasn't too long ago that most detailers agreed that using a large volume of water with a high lubricity car soap was the safest (and perhaps most effective) way to wash your car. Advances in lubricant, polymer and surfactant technology has made other methods popular and arguably as effective. Regardless of the method chosen, certain precautions should be used to avoid scratching the paint and scuffing the finish.
Wash Media-
Wash media is defined as the material you choose to wash your car with. Whatever the wash media you choose, it should be soft so that it doesn't scratch paint, and it should hold volumes of solution.
-Natural Sheepskin or Lamb's Wool Mitts- Sheepskin or lamb's wool wash mitts remain a popular choice for good reason. Lamb's Wool is extremely soft to the touch and does not scratch paint. The long nap and large surface area hold grit and dirt off the surface to prevent scratching while allowing the mitt to hold copious amounts of soap solution. The Autopia Sheepskin Wash mitt is an excellent and affordable choice for a long lasting natural wash mitt. For those who want something more extravagant we carry the Dodo Juice Supernatural “Wookie's Fist” wash mitt. This mitt is four times more plush than a standard mitt and made from 100% Merino wool, the softest and most gentle wool in the world.
-Microfiber Towels or Wash Mitts- Microfiber wash mitts or towels are a popular choice for rinse-less and waterless wash media, but work remarkably well for traditional wash methods. Microfiber is an extremely soft man made material that will hold an ample amount of solution. Microfiber comes in various densities and pile length; for washing you will want to use a plush microfiber made from high quality material. I recommend using a Pinnacle Microfiber Detailing Mitt, or a Carrand Max Premium microfiber Wash Sponge.
-Sponges- Wash sponges remain a popular choice for car enthusiasts around the world. While sponges sacrifice a long soft nap they make up the difference with the ability to rinse clean and their long lasting durability. Wash sponges hold a huge amount of solution making them ideal for all washing methods. Sponges can either be man made or carefully hand selected from the ocean. Each wash sponge sold by Autopia-CarCare has been tested to be gentle to paint. The Lake Country Ulti-Mitts hold huge amounts of solution and are extremely soft, while the Lake Country Foam Car Wash sponge uses a specially made foam that traps and holds dirt far from the paint's surface.
Todd says: I generally use a gold Lake Country Ulti-Mitt for general washing duties, and a soft blue Cobra Microfiber towel for washing more difficult areas, creases, behind the hood handles, and other areas I cannot fully reach with a sponge. I have used everything from a natural sea-sponge to a sheepskin wash mitt and all are paint safe. The best wash media is going to be the one you are most comfortable with, but always remember to keep your wash media clean and free of paint damaging grit and dirt.
A final note on wash media: Perhaps more important than the actual selection of the wash media is how it is cared for. Using your favorite wash media on heavily soiled areas such as the wheel wells or on the wheels will impregnate them with hard to remove grit. Instead use a separate wash media for those areas. Also, we recommend rinsing out your wash media after washing each section. The most effective way of doing this is to have a separate 5 gallon bucket filled with water to rinse and wring your media into.
08-30-2011, 07:52 PM
#129
....con't...
Wash Method Types-
There are three main types of washing methods: Traditional Washing, Rinse-less Washing, and Waterless Washing. Each type has advantages and draw backs.
-Traditional Washing- Traditional washing consists of using a car soap solution and ample amounts of free-running water to encapsulate dirt and debris and float them safely off of the paint. This method is the most ideal for heavily soiled cars as the constant flushing of the surface with solution provides the greatest barrier between the damaging girt and your paint. It is recommended to always use a Two-Bucket Method where a second bucket is used to rinse out your wash media frequently, in combination with a high quality wash media. Wash and rinse each section of the car separately making sure to use an ample amount of solution. Use a high quality car soap such as Blackfire's Gloss Shampoo, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo, or Meguiar's Gold Class.
-Rinse-less Washing- Rinse-less washing has gained popularity in recent years as increases in product chemistry have led to solutions which encapsulate dirt and grit and safely remove them from the paint without the use of rinsing. Rinse-less washing is ideal in areas where water is restricted or times when speed and efficiency are critical. Popular Rinse-less wash solutions include Detailer's Pro Rinseless Wash and Gloss and Optimum Polymer Technology's No-Rinse and Shine. As a benefit, each of these wash solutions utilize synthetic polymer technology that not only cleans the paint but adds a layer of protection and shine to the finish, making them ideal for maintenance washing as well.
-Waterless Washing- As the name implies, waterless washing uses a highly concentrated formula of surfactants and polymers to encapsulate dirt and grit to help prevent scratching. These are mist and wipe solutions that are ideal for areas where water use is extremely restricted or when your car is lightly soiled. Detailer's Pro Waterless Auto Wash, Optimum Opti-Clean, and Ultima Waterless Spray Wash Plus are great choices for this method of car washing.
Todd says: I tend to use the traditional wash method in combination with the Two-Bucket Method or moderate to heavily soiled cars. Nothing is going to protect the paint as well as an ample amount of water to flood dirt off the paint. However if the car is just moderately soiled, or if I am washing my own car (because it never gets too dirty) I prefer a rinse-less was such as DP Rinseless Wash and Gloss or Optimum's No-Rinse. Both of these formulas leave the paint protected and glossy, so my personal car constantly looks 'just-detailed.' If I have just driven around town and got caught in a light rain storm I will use a waterless wash such as Optimum Opti-Clean to safely remove the water spots and light soiling.
A final note on wash methods: Select the wash method that best suits the needs and paint condition of your automobile. Many professional detailers and enthusiasts will use different methods depending on the level of soiling as well as time restraints. Traditional washing is usually the most time consuming yet is safe enough to tackle heavy soiling, where as a mist-and-wipe waterless wash is very efficient but may not provide the lubricity needed for extremely dirty cars. In the middle, rinse-less car washing provides near the efficiency of waterless washing while offering many of the benefits of traditional washing. Regardless of the method you find to best suit your needs, it is critical that you practice paint friendly techniques to avoid scratching or scuffing the surface. It is almost always best to wash your car in the shade out of direct sunlight and to wash more heavily soiled areas last.
Drying-
Most of the swirl marks and damage to the paint is caused during the drying process. Car wash solutions feature high lubricity that allows dirt, grit and even towels to glide across the surface. Once that solution is rinsed off your paint is at risk from abrasion. While the actual drying technique is dependent on the method you use to wash your car, a couple of pointers will help keep your car swirl free and shiny.
-Flood the paint- If you are using a traditional car wash method, remove the nozzle from your hose and let the water flow out in a steady stream. Water is viscous in nature, and by flooding the surface with a pool of water, you will cause it to sheet itself off the paint. It is possible to remove more than 90% of the standing water by simply flooding the surface with a steady stream.
-Blow dry the paint- Using a high speed air blower such as a Metro MasterBlaster to blow standing water off of the paint and out of nooks and crannies such as light housings, body lines, and door handles. The more water that can be removed with out physically touching the paint the less the chance of creating marring or swirl mark damage.
-Use a high quality paint friendly towel for final drying- Using a paint friendly non-scratch towel for final drying is imperative. Many people incorrectly use a cotton bath towel. Unless the towel is a true 100% cotton towel, it is made from cotton loop attached to a nylon backing. Nylon will scratch paint. Our recommendation is to avoid use if the towel feels any less that baby soft to your skin. Instead use a high quality waffle weave drying towel such as a Cobra Supreme Guzzler or a Meguiar's Water Magnet. Alternatively you can choose to use a synthetic chamois such as P21s's Super Absorbing Drying Towel or a natural man made chamois like a Prince of Wale's. Regardless of the drying media, make sure that it is clean and free of grit or dirt. If you live in a dusty area it is often better to stick with a waffle weave microfiber drying towel as it has some nap that will prevent dust from grinding into the paint's surface.
-Drying with a detail spray- As an optional step, many detailers and enthusiast prefer use a high lubricity detail spray in combination with their favorite waffle weave drying towel to add lubricity to the paint (preventing towel marks), remove any fresh water spots, and boost the shine of their paint.
Wash Method Types-
There are three main types of washing methods: Traditional Washing, Rinse-less Washing, and Waterless Washing. Each type has advantages and draw backs.
-Traditional Washing- Traditional washing consists of using a car soap solution and ample amounts of free-running water to encapsulate dirt and debris and float them safely off of the paint. This method is the most ideal for heavily soiled cars as the constant flushing of the surface with solution provides the greatest barrier between the damaging girt and your paint. It is recommended to always use a Two-Bucket Method where a second bucket is used to rinse out your wash media frequently, in combination with a high quality wash media. Wash and rinse each section of the car separately making sure to use an ample amount of solution. Use a high quality car soap such as Blackfire's Gloss Shampoo, Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo, or Meguiar's Gold Class.
-Rinse-less Washing- Rinse-less washing has gained popularity in recent years as increases in product chemistry have led to solutions which encapsulate dirt and grit and safely remove them from the paint without the use of rinsing. Rinse-less washing is ideal in areas where water is restricted or times when speed and efficiency are critical. Popular Rinse-less wash solutions include Detailer's Pro Rinseless Wash and Gloss and Optimum Polymer Technology's No-Rinse and Shine. As a benefit, each of these wash solutions utilize synthetic polymer technology that not only cleans the paint but adds a layer of protection and shine to the finish, making them ideal for maintenance washing as well.
-Waterless Washing- As the name implies, waterless washing uses a highly concentrated formula of surfactants and polymers to encapsulate dirt and grit to help prevent scratching. These are mist and wipe solutions that are ideal for areas where water use is extremely restricted or when your car is lightly soiled. Detailer's Pro Waterless Auto Wash, Optimum Opti-Clean, and Ultima Waterless Spray Wash Plus are great choices for this method of car washing.
Todd says: I tend to use the traditional wash method in combination with the Two-Bucket Method or moderate to heavily soiled cars. Nothing is going to protect the paint as well as an ample amount of water to flood dirt off the paint. However if the car is just moderately soiled, or if I am washing my own car (because it never gets too dirty) I prefer a rinse-less was such as DP Rinseless Wash and Gloss or Optimum's No-Rinse. Both of these formulas leave the paint protected and glossy, so my personal car constantly looks 'just-detailed.' If I have just driven around town and got caught in a light rain storm I will use a waterless wash such as Optimum Opti-Clean to safely remove the water spots and light soiling.
A final note on wash methods: Select the wash method that best suits the needs and paint condition of your automobile. Many professional detailers and enthusiasts will use different methods depending on the level of soiling as well as time restraints. Traditional washing is usually the most time consuming yet is safe enough to tackle heavy soiling, where as a mist-and-wipe waterless wash is very efficient but may not provide the lubricity needed for extremely dirty cars. In the middle, rinse-less car washing provides near the efficiency of waterless washing while offering many of the benefits of traditional washing. Regardless of the method you find to best suit your needs, it is critical that you practice paint friendly techniques to avoid scratching or scuffing the surface. It is almost always best to wash your car in the shade out of direct sunlight and to wash more heavily soiled areas last.
Drying-
Most of the swirl marks and damage to the paint is caused during the drying process. Car wash solutions feature high lubricity that allows dirt, grit and even towels to glide across the surface. Once that solution is rinsed off your paint is at risk from abrasion. While the actual drying technique is dependent on the method you use to wash your car, a couple of pointers will help keep your car swirl free and shiny.
-Flood the paint- If you are using a traditional car wash method, remove the nozzle from your hose and let the water flow out in a steady stream. Water is viscous in nature, and by flooding the surface with a pool of water, you will cause it to sheet itself off the paint. It is possible to remove more than 90% of the standing water by simply flooding the surface with a steady stream.
-Blow dry the paint- Using a high speed air blower such as a Metro MasterBlaster to blow standing water off of the paint and out of nooks and crannies such as light housings, body lines, and door handles. The more water that can be removed with out physically touching the paint the less the chance of creating marring or swirl mark damage.
-Use a high quality paint friendly towel for final drying- Using a paint friendly non-scratch towel for final drying is imperative. Many people incorrectly use a cotton bath towel. Unless the towel is a true 100% cotton towel, it is made from cotton loop attached to a nylon backing. Nylon will scratch paint. Our recommendation is to avoid use if the towel feels any less that baby soft to your skin. Instead use a high quality waffle weave drying towel such as a Cobra Supreme Guzzler or a Meguiar's Water Magnet. Alternatively you can choose to use a synthetic chamois such as P21s's Super Absorbing Drying Towel or a natural man made chamois like a Prince of Wale's. Regardless of the drying media, make sure that it is clean and free of grit or dirt. If you live in a dusty area it is often better to stick with a waffle weave microfiber drying towel as it has some nap that will prevent dust from grinding into the paint's surface.
-Drying with a detail spray- As an optional step, many detailers and enthusiast prefer use a high lubricity detail spray in combination with their favorite waffle weave drying towel to add lubricity to the paint (preventing towel marks), remove any fresh water spots, and boost the shine of their paint.
08-30-2011, 07:56 PM
#130
The static electricity is a byproduct of friction with cloth on the surface, there isn't any way to really eliminate it. I've noticed that when removing a sealant or wax on fiberglass, hearing the crackling of static electricity....that when I use the Blackfire Detail Spray, it goes away. I have not had that luck with any other product. Outside of that, I don't know a way to cut it down.
The GF thinks I'm real bad at it, I always have my phone!
08-30-2011, 08:02 PM
#132
Pretty much yes. I've learned a LOT from Todd. Any professional detailer should take a look at their methods and compare them to Todd's, and if it doesn't match up, they should start doing some reading. Todd is one of, if not THE best in the business.
08-31-2011, 09:42 AM
#133
What is a CR system I assume its some type of filter but who makes them to I can take a look at a few. Also if you rated both meguires gold and adam's as fair. What do you use? As far matching detail spray to your wax/selant for when you wash in between the big jobs, how do you go about this process?
I'm on my phone so sorry if the response is all fudged up
I'm on my phone so sorry if the response is all fudged up
08-31-2011, 10:25 AM
#134
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 1,863
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you recommend the regular lake country pads or the ccs pads? and what's the difference? 6.5 or 5.5?
Also what do you use to apply tire shine? Those foam applicators I use always fall apart.
Also what do you use to apply tire shine? Those foam applicators I use always fall apart.
08-31-2011, 07:04 PM
#136
Hey Jeff, I have a question about cleaning the pads you apply LSP with. What is your process of doing this? I use either red LC cccs pads on the PC or the small oval red LC hand applicators to apply. The LSP I use is Blackfire wet diamond. My cleaning method is the Snappy pad cleaner, 1 pouch to about a couple gallons of warm water, let pads soak for an hour or so, then work the pads by hand in the water until clean. Then rinse and spin out the excess water on my rotary. I have 0 issues cleaning polishes and compounds out of the pads, but the Blackfire, no matter how long I clean, will not fully come out of the pads.While the surface of the pad is clean, I can never get them clean to a point where I cant squeeze out sealent. Its got me baffled. When I apply Blackfire, I never use an excess amount because a small amount of it goes a long long way, so its not like pad is overly saturated. So I dont get it
Kudo's to you for your devotion to this thread and patience. Your a true professional man and great asset to this forum. I often wanna pull my hair out trying to expain detailing procedures to those less knowledgeable as dealing with different skill levels can get pretty tedius, hats off to ya man.
Kudo's to you for your devotion to this thread and patience. Your a true professional man and great asset to this forum. I often wanna pull my hair out trying to expain detailing procedures to those less knowledgeable as dealing with different skill levels can get pretty tedius, hats off to ya man.
08-31-2011, 08:45 PM
#137
11 Second Club
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NW IN
Posts: 1,730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you have any tips for removing tree sap? Some ended up on the hood of my work truck and need ideas on where to start to remove it.
Thanks for making the thread, can't wait to try some of these tips on the Camaro as it needs a full detail done soon.
Thanks for making the thread, can't wait to try some of these tips on the Camaro as it needs a full detail done soon.
08-31-2011, 11:00 PM
#140
What is a CR system I assume its some type of filter but who makes them to I can take a look at a few. Also if you rated both meguires gold and adam's as fair. What do you use? As far matching detail spray to your wax/selant for when you wash in between the big jobs, how do you go about this process?
I'm on my phone so sorry if the response is all fudged up
I'm on my phone so sorry if the response is all fudged up
http://www.autogeek.net/cr-spotless-water-systems.html
I like the Zaino Z7 soap and Meguiars Pro Line Shampoo Plus.
For the detail spray, if I finished a car with Blackfire, then I'll use Blackfire's Detail Spray, if its finished with Zaino, I'll use the Zaino Z6 or Z8 detail spray. So whatever brand of wax or sealant is on the car, thats what you should use for detail spray.