Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

Ask a Professional Detailer

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-06-2012, 10:02 AM
  #1901  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (32)
 
Rare96LT1Formula's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Screamin_99
Thoughts on a long lasting sealant for paint protection. I realize that UV will be a huge breakdown/downfall of most.

Opti-Coat seems to be something that is becoming very popular? Perma sealing though?

What's a good long lasting sealant? I would like to throw something on and feel comfy knowing the car is protected very well through the winter/summer months.

CG's Jetseal seems OKAY, but I doubt it really lasts very long for the price. Maybe 5 months or so?
Jetseal is a fantastic product, and I have seen durability of 6 months + on all three cars I applied it to. Opti Guard and Cquartz are also nice options and have durability ratings far exceeding other non permanent products. Keep in mind if you choose a coating like that, you're going to want the car to be as close to perfect as possible (compound, polish, finish polish) before you apply. Each and every car is different, it just depends on how far you want to go with the project. Is your car a daily driver?
Old 11-06-2012, 07:54 PM
  #1902  
TECH Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
Screamin_99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
Jetseal is a fantastic product, and I have seen durability of 6 months + on all three cars I applied it to. Opti Guard and Cquartz are also nice options and have durability ratings far exceeding other non permanent products. Keep in mind if you choose a coating like that, you're going to want the car to be as close to perfect as possible (compound, polish, finish polish) before you apply. Each and every car is different, it just depends on how far you want to go with the project. Is your car a daily driver?
Yes.. And is non garaged. So the longest lasting product would be ideal I think. Especially since I live in a place where we see our fair share of snow/sleet and rain.
Old 11-07-2012, 12:11 AM
  #1903  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
 
LilJayV10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Evansville,IN
Posts: 9,463
Received 904 Likes on 645 Posts

Default

Has the Lake Country pads been talked about yet? I know they were brought up but I can't find if Jeff ever commented on them.

I need to buy some more MF pads and I am debating on trying the LC's or sticking with the Megs.
Old 11-07-2012, 08:07 PM
  #1904  
TECH Regular
 
AWDTBSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

He said he doesn't like them too short of pile and stiff, also they warped after washing it. I didn't have that wash problem with mine tho
Old 11-07-2012, 09:05 PM
  #1905  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
 
LilJayV10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Evansville,IN
Posts: 9,463
Received 904 Likes on 645 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by AWDTBSS
He said he doesn't like them too short of pile and stiff, also they warped after washing it. I didn't have that wash problem with mine tho
Cool. Thanks for letting me know. I had a similar problem with the Megs but I found out I was drying them at too high of heat.

I will stick with the Megs. I am interested to see when the M101 is going to be released.
Old 11-07-2012, 09:13 PM
  #1906  
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
 
juSStin4171's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: At my house
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

What would you recommend for these water spots on the trim of my t-tops. I've tried every type of soap, sponge, mitt, brush and trim spray, gel, goup etc... It's starting to make my right eye twitch when I look at them...



Old 11-08-2012, 09:53 PM
  #1907  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
CamaroSS27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Denton, TX
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

maybe try a stong APC and tooth brush to scrub, that is what I used if I accidentally get compound on rubber trim and gets that white residue.
Old 11-08-2012, 09:57 PM
  #1908  
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
 
juSStin4171's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: At my house
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by CamaroSS27
maybe try a stong APC and tooth brush to scrub, that is what I used if I accidentally get compound on rubber trim and gets that white residue.
I haven't tried a diluted Simple Green mix... do you think that would discolor the trim?
Old 11-13-2012, 12:36 AM
  #1909  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
DoggyB22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Hey Jeff was wondering what would work best for getting these to look near brand new... 4 years of the spray tint has finally came off.. Or should I just buy some new ones? haha Thanks! I promise this summer your going to be doing a detail on my car!



Last edited by DoggyB22; 11-14-2012 at 03:43 AM.
Old 11-13-2012, 02:09 AM
  #1910  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
 
crimson_bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

goddamn those things look bad. you shoulda bought the ones I was selling!! I got some LT1 style lights I may be selling if you're interested
Old 11-13-2012, 03:07 AM
  #1911  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
DoggyB22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by crimson_bird
goddamn those things look bad. you shoulda bought the ones I was selling!! I got some LT1 style lights I may be selling if you're interested
Haha tell me about it... I don't know how I feel about the LT1 style. But Ill let you know if I will
Old 11-13-2012, 03:16 AM
  #1912  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (4)
 
crimson_bird's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The Bay Area, CA
Posts: 4,138
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

alright, I may have them posted on Norcal tomorrow. I'm sure you can bring your lights back to life though, with a little elbow grease. A good wet-sanding followed up with polishing should have them looking good.
Old 11-13-2012, 11:05 AM
  #1913  
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
 
juSStin4171's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: At my house
Posts: 250
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

DoggyB22 - With as bad as those look you have NOTHING to loose trying to sand them down and polish them back to a gloss. I'd personally start with something around 400 - 600 grit (wet) and work my way up to 2000 then use a polish of your choice. All in all it should only take about 1 to 1 1/2 hours to complete. I brought mine back years ago using that method. (They weren't as bad as yours tho...)
Old 11-13-2012, 07:08 PM
  #1914  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
CamaroSS27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Denton, TX
Posts: 1,474
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

^ I dont think I would go that low, start with a 1000 or 1500, doesnt look like you have a lot to cut through, then polish them back and seal them. They will look brand new.
Old 11-13-2012, 09:22 PM
  #1915  
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (20)
 
Conrad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: 48348
Posts: 653
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by CamaroSS27
^ I dont think I would go that low, start with a 1000 or 1500, doesnt look like you have a lot to cut through, then polish them back and seal them. They will look brand new.

I agree here.
Old 11-13-2012, 11:31 PM
  #1916  
TECH Regular
 
AWDTBSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 449
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Cool. Thanks for letting me know. I had a similar problem with the Megs but I found out I was drying them at too high of heat.

I will stick with the Megs. I am interested to see when the M101 is going to be released.
Nanoskin the people who make the Autoscrub pad/Towel are coming out with a MF Pad from what I heard, so there will be more options on the market shortly
Originally Posted by DoggyB22
Hey Mark was wondering what would work best for getting these to look near brand new... 4 years of the spray tint has finally came off.. Or should I just buy some new ones? haha Thanks! I promise this summer your going to be doing a detail on my car!
Who the hell is Mark? LOL
Old 11-14-2012, 03:48 AM
  #1917  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
DoggyB22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Alright thanks for the help! Hopefully it works out..

Originally Posted by AWDTBSS
Who the hell is Mark? LOL
Lol one of those things when you are typing & then your about to spell the persons name but you hear someone same another name & you type it lol sorry Jeff
Old 11-14-2012, 05:15 PM
  #1918  
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
GoFast908Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 3,367
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by LilJayV10
I know Jeff use to recommend using the polish w/ steel wool but changed his mind to polish/MF towel.

However I don't know EXACTLY what circumstances where made in the decision.


Yes polish and steel wool is aggressive but sometimes its the only thing that seems to work.

What finish(polished aluminum, stainless, chrome)will play a big role in what you decide to go with.
I found that the steel wool (#0000) was leaving very light marring in chrome and some other metals I used it on, so I switched to MF towels. They take longer but reduce the chance of marring.

Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Thanks for the tip. I will be sure to keep it on.

If we could, could we talk about cleaning the interior? I know its been brought up a few times through out the thread. I know Folex and a few other products have been mentioned. I guess I'm looking for a little more, like the depth of information that has been covered with paint correction.

With interiors, like exteriors, there is no one solution for cleaning/correcting every problem. From the countless hours I have spent on Autopia reading about interiors there is just as much if not more technique/knowledge than exteriors.

I know the thread has stalled a little bit, so I was wondering if we could change the direction somewhat.

I doubt that Jeff gets the Caravans will soda all over the inside of it but I would like to be able to break down what products/techniques you use for different types of stains.

Well the BEST way to clean interiors is a steamer (not a $90 one) and a hot water carpet extractor. For smaller stains and such, 303 Carpet cleaner works amazingly well, better than Folex IMO, but both are great choices. For light interior cleaning (doors, dash, console, etc) Meguiars Quick Interior detailer is VERY good. They have a professional version as well that is also exceptional. Just a few thoughts for now...

Originally Posted by TransAmcoupe98
I apologize, I meant to start a thread, but posted in here haha. My bad
No worries, just trying to keep thread on track as its nearly 100 pages now.

Originally Posted by LilJayV10
I used some BFWD on a car this past weekend. Let it sit on for 24 hours. Damn that stuff is impressive.
Me thinks you speak the truth....

Originally Posted by Rare96LT1Formula
Hey Jeff,

Any duragloss products you specifically like? I have used the 501, 601, 111, AW, etc. Loved every one of them. What are your thoughts? Any great DG products that I'm missing out on? Ever try any Auto Finesse products?
I may step on some toes with this....but.... If you've used Zaino, you've used Duragloss. Decent product with great durability. I've only tried the Auto Finesse glass cleaner (impressive for VERY dirty/greasy glass)....though I'll always final wipe with DI water.

Originally Posted by Screamin_99
Thoughts on a long lasting sealant for paint protection. I realize that UV will be a huge breakdown/downfall of most.

Opti-Coat seems to be something that is becoming very popular? Perma sealing though?

What's a good long lasting sealant? I would like to throw something on and feel comfy knowing the car is protected very well through the winter/summer months.

CG's Jetseal seems OKAY, but I doubt it really lasts very long for the price. Maybe 5 months or so?
Zaino will give 6+ months, Collinite will match that and looks good too. CQuartz/AQuartz will give 18-24months, Opti-Coat 2.0 or Opti-Guard will last many years and are the ultimate long term protection. I do a lot of OC/OG coating and am also the only Authorized (by Optimum Polymer Technologies) Opti-Guard Installer in the SF Bay Area.

Originally Posted by AWDTBSS
HD Nitro Seal is very nice and lasts a long time
^True. Looks fantastic too. I'd expect 6mo-1yr.

Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Has the Lake Country pads been talked about yet? I know they were brought up but I can't find if Jeff ever commented on them.

I need to buy some more MF pads and I am debating on trying the LC's or sticking with the Megs.
Well Drew relayed my thoughts on them, but pretty much I don't care for the LC ones. Too stiff, pile is too short, and doesn't retain its shape well.

Originally Posted by juSStin4171
What would you recommend for these water spots on the trim of my t-tops. I've tried every type of soap, sponge, mitt, brush and trim spray, gel, goup etc... It's starting to make my right eye twitch when I look at them...





Gloves are a must with this.

Originally Posted by CamaroSS27
maybe try a stong APC and tooth brush to scrub, that is what I used if I accidentally get compound on rubber trim and gets that white residue.

This will work MUCH better. Use gloves with it.

Originally Posted by DoggyB22
Hey Jeff was wondering what would work best for getting these to look near brand new... 4 years of the spray tint has finally came off.. Or should I just buy some new ones? haha Thanks! I promise this summer your going to be doing a detail on my car!


Wetsand, compound, polish, then a permanent coating (so it doesn't happen again.) I can do it for you if you like. A set of used ones would be cheaper though....but swirl/defect-free lights are super glossy and really make a car look sharp. I never correct a car without correcting the lights too....just puts a nice finishing touch on it.


Originally Posted by CamaroSS27
^ I dont think I would go that low, start with a 1000 or 1500, doesnt look like you have a lot to cut through, then polish them back and seal them. They will look brand new.
Yeah, 400-600 is too strong. 1200-1500 is a good starting point, then 2000, 2500, then 3000. Too aggressive will just make more work than needed.

Last edited by GoFast908Z; 11-14-2012 at 05:25 PM.
Old 11-14-2012, 05:30 PM
  #1919  
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (12)
 
GoFast908Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 3,367
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

For you BDoggy22.....


LED for the light of truth! This is what most lights look like when the light hits them.





Corrected





Old 11-14-2012, 09:31 PM
  #1920  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
DoggyB22's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 1,677
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Alright thanks! The Vette ones look good. If I can find some for a good price Ill probably just buy them.


Quick Reply: Ask a Professional Detailer



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:26 AM.