Write Up: C6 Steering Wheel in an F-body
02-06-2013, 10:11 AM
#22
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Subscribed. I too like the OEM look, but want a fancier wheel. On frrax.com, there is a thread on wheel size in regards to performance driving and the pluses and minuses of different diameter wheels. With that said, can you take measurments?
Also, if you can, compare weights! If it shaves off 4-5 lbs, even better!
I, for one, do want an functional airbag, though.
Also, if you can, compare weights! If it shaves off 4-5 lbs, even better!
I, for one, do want an functional airbag, though.
02-06-2013, 10:50 AM
#23
I looked at a pic of the rear of a C6 air bag and there are only two 2-pin plugs on it. One for the bag itself and one for the horn. I doubt the connector to the air bag is any sort of data bus because there are only 2 pins, which should be power and ground. To have data you'd need a 3rd pin more than likely. Power applied = airbag pop.
But as mentioned one issue could be airbag system reading the different airbag properly. Not sure what the resistance is that it looks for and what the resistance of the newer airbag is. Might take some testing but I'd be standing far, far back when doing that!
But as mentioned one issue could be airbag system reading the different airbag properly. Not sure what the resistance is that it looks for and what the resistance of the newer airbag is. Might take some testing but I'd be standing far, far back when doing that!
02-06-2013, 11:25 AM
#24
Subscribed. I too like the OEM look, but want a fancier wheel. On frrax.com, there is a thread on wheel size in regards to performance driving and the pluses and minuses of different diameter wheels. With that said, can you take measurments?
Also, if you can, compare weights! If it shaves off 4-5 lbs, even better!
I, for one, do want an functional airbag, though.
Also, if you can, compare weights! If it shaves off 4-5 lbs, even better!
I, for one, do want an functional airbag, though.
I looked at a pic of the rear of a C6 air bag and there are only two 2-pin plugs on it. One for the bag itself and one for the horn. I doubt the connector to the air bag is any sort of data bus because there are only 2 pins, which should be power and ground. To have data you'd need a 3rd pin more than likely. Power applied = airbag pop.
But as mentioned one issue could be airbag system reading the different airbag properly. Not sure what the resistance is that it looks for and what the resistance of the newer airbag is. Might take some testing but I'd be standing far, far back when doing that!
But as mentioned one issue could be airbag system reading the different airbag properly. Not sure what the resistance is that it looks for and what the resistance of the newer airbag is. Might take some testing but I'd be standing far, far back when doing that!
02-06-2013, 11:29 AM
#25
I was looking at a bag from a 2010. That older style 2 pin is probably what you'd want to stick with.
If the resistance of the newer bag is higher than the old, you can put resistors in parallel to make the circuit resistance lower. I just don't know how that might affect bag deployment. Same goes with putting resistors in series if the bag resistance is lower than the old. I'm curious actually what the sense voltage the fbody and the C6 are sending to the bags without deploying.
If the resistance of the newer bag is higher than the old, you can put resistors in parallel to make the circuit resistance lower. I just don't know how that might affect bag deployment. Same goes with putting resistors in series if the bag resistance is lower than the old. I'm curious actually what the sense voltage the fbody and the C6 are sending to the bags without deploying.
Last edited by SparkyJJO; 02-06-2013 at 12:02 PM.
02-06-2013, 02:08 PM
#28
Ill be honest, if the bag thing gets to complicated I probably wont hook it up. Im doing some research but i havent decided if its worth it or not.
The wheel diameter is 14.5 inches... not sure yet on the f-body wheel, that involves walking to the garage and im feeling lazy at the moment lol. Ill put them both on a scale this weekend as well without bags
The wheel diameter is 14.5 inches... not sure yet on the f-body wheel, that involves walking to the garage and im feeling lazy at the moment lol. Ill put them both on a scale this weekend as well without bags
02-08-2013, 03:18 PM
#33
Cool project and lots of luck to completion man. Be VERY patient and take lots of pictures disassembling the steering shaft. It is tedious times 100. I swapped my upper shaft in my 95 Trans Am back 9-10 years ago so I could run the thick rim 01-03 Grand Prix whee( looking back, this wheel is UGLY as sin
) l. The steering shaft from the GP swapped right over. Looking at your Vette shaft, it appears it will do the same, given the claw dimensions are the same, Im assuming they will be. Just going off logic it would make sense that any type steering shaft joint like that, for the sake of cost savings is gonna use the same nylon spherical bushing.
The airbag stuff though, I am not so optimistic about, since Can-bus systems send varied voltage pulsed signals. In my past experience trying to cross the new can-bus items into and older electrical system, it just doesn't work. A can bus radio will not operate on 12 volts, I tried to power a can-bus adaptive projector headlight module from a Opel Astra VXr with 12 volts and could not get any of the 3 servo motors in the assembly to power up. I would be scared 1 of the bag blowing when powered up, or if it didnt blow, I would be worried about it firing when your driving. My guess is the bag simply would not function at all. Any older hot rod Ive seen that has used retro'd in can-bus powered electronics including airbags, have retro'd the entire OEM can-bus electrical system from the donar car.
If you cant power the bag and since I think your gonna be successful retro'ing the shaft, you will likely be-able to just unbolt the inflator from the back of the airbag cover. On the 01 Grand Prix airbag cover I had, the inflator was retained with bolts. Unlike the F-body bags which is permanent mounted( theoretically ). I just unbolted the inflator and used the OEM cover. No worries of the bag going off and it since the bag still remains you dont have to worry bout the cover collapsing on the front side. Another thing to note, if you still want the horn to work, in the disassembly and reassembly process don't let your OEM clock-spring rotate out of it's normal range, it can be damaged. If damaged it wont transfer any power.
Good luck with everything man. I liked that wheel alot when I had my 09 Cobalt SS.
Here's a pic of the GP wheel in my car to back myself up on what I said about the shaft to show Im not talking out my ***
) l. The steering shaft from the GP swapped right over. Looking at your Vette shaft, it appears it will do the same, given the claw dimensions are the same, Im assuming they will be. Just going off logic it would make sense that any type steering shaft joint like that, for the sake of cost savings is gonna use the same nylon spherical bushing. The airbag stuff though, I am not so optimistic about, since Can-bus systems send varied voltage pulsed signals. In my past experience trying to cross the new can-bus items into and older electrical system, it just doesn't work. A can bus radio will not operate on 12 volts, I tried to power a can-bus adaptive projector headlight module from a Opel Astra VXr with 12 volts and could not get any of the 3 servo motors in the assembly to power up. I would be scared 1 of the bag blowing when powered up, or if it didnt blow, I would be worried about it firing when your driving. My guess is the bag simply would not function at all. Any older hot rod Ive seen that has used retro'd in can-bus powered electronics including airbags, have retro'd the entire OEM can-bus electrical system from the donar car.
If you cant power the bag and since I think your gonna be successful retro'ing the shaft, you will likely be-able to just unbolt the inflator from the back of the airbag cover. On the 01 Grand Prix airbag cover I had, the inflator was retained with bolts. Unlike the F-body bags which is permanent mounted( theoretically ). I just unbolted the inflator and used the OEM cover. No worries of the bag going off and it since the bag still remains you dont have to worry bout the cover collapsing on the front side. Another thing to note, if you still want the horn to work, in the disassembly and reassembly process don't let your OEM clock-spring rotate out of it's normal range, it can be damaged. If damaged it wont transfer any power.
Good luck with everything man. I liked that wheel alot when I had my 09 Cobalt SS.
Here's a pic of the GP wheel in my car to back myself up on what I said about the shaft to show Im not talking out my ***
Last edited by LT4vert; 02-08-2013 at 03:29 PM.
02-08-2013, 03:59 PM
#35
I couldnt find at the time. It sucks when you get into the less often traveled topics how-to's are like finding a flying elephant. I will say if your mechanically inclined you wont have a problem. Theres alot of small parts, pay very close attention to how you dis assemble and do take lots and lots of pictures and lay it out in the order you remove. Most definitely have a good pair of snap ring pliers. Its not hard just tedious. If you forget how stuff goes back together like I did on a couple things it gets baffling. When I disassembled mine instead of reassembling the same day when its all fresh in your head, I let a month lapse. Mistake 
welcome 
02-09-2013, 03:29 PM
#40
I'll be starting on it the weekend after next. I didnt have time to grab a bag and test everything before motorama. If i were trailering it there it would be a different story but I gotta drive her now unfortunately. But worry not, this is coming soon with full high res pics.