Doing CETA mod, couple of questions
#1
Doing CETA mod, couple of questions
Doing the CETA on a white 2000 TA, semi gloss black.
My questions are, should i wait until its warmer out? Where i am its like 28 degrees, second, whats the easiest way to tape off? Im **** poor at taping, any tips/tricks? Ill do whatever makes the cleanest line, either in the indentation or on the outside. Ive read pinstripe tape, anyone use this? Does it make it easier?
Thanks
Ive searched, most posts are older and i didnt see anything specific to these questions.
My questions are, should i wait until its warmer out? Where i am its like 28 degrees, second, whats the easiest way to tape off? Im **** poor at taping, any tips/tricks? Ill do whatever makes the cleanest line, either in the indentation or on the outside. Ive read pinstripe tape, anyone use this? Does it make it easier?
Thanks
Ive searched, most posts are older and i didnt see anything specific to these questions.
#3
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (104)
If you have an auto-body paint supply type of auto parts store in your area, you could pick up a roll of stripe tape. It is more flexible then masking tape & will leave a cleaner edge without bleeding under it. They are usually available in many sizes, but maybe something in the 1/8"-1/4" size would be easy to work with.
I'd use 1/4" myself. Then you can put your masking tape right along mid-stripe of that tape.
I think most people do paint the indentation also.
Do ya have a garage at all? If so, I'd try to warm it up a bit.
Most paint is not meant to work well in low temperatures.
Read the labels, I'm sure they all say 40 or 60 degrees or better.
Or, just go to a local auto-body shop & ask them to do it. It probably wouldn't cost that much.
If ya think about all the time & material you'd have in it, ..., they have experience & product available to do it, ..., in a warm enviroment.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...umper-how.html
I'd use 1/4" myself. Then you can put your masking tape right along mid-stripe of that tape.
I think most people do paint the indentation also.
Do ya have a garage at all? If so, I'd try to warm it up a bit.
Most paint is not meant to work well in low temperatures.
Read the labels, I'm sure they all say 40 or 60 degrees or better.
Or, just go to a local auto-body shop & ask them to do it. It probably wouldn't cost that much.
If ya think about all the time & material you'd have in it, ..., they have experience & product available to do it, ..., in a warm enviroment.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...umper-how.html
#4
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Just an idea, maybe try using Plasti-dip first to practice your taping/technique...it's easy to remove if you mess up and it's durable enough to see if you really like the look on your car. If you do like it you can peel it off and do the real thing w/ paint later on down the road.
Plasti-Dip
Plasti-Dip
#5
I picked up the paint (krylon fusion), and it says 50-80, so Im going to wait until the outside temp goes up. I do have a garage but ita not heated.
I was going to pay someone but they want between 100-150, i can screw up like 5xs for that lind of money.
if anyone in Jersey knows someone who will do it cheaper let me know.
It seems easy enough if I take my time. im going to so the ceta, paint calipers and pull side molding in one weekend. Should look good when im all done.
I was going to pay someone but they want between 100-150, i can screw up like 5xs for that lind of money.
if anyone in Jersey knows someone who will do it cheaper let me know.
It seems easy enough if I take my time. im going to so the ceta, paint calipers and pull side molding in one weekend. Should look good when im all done.
#6
Finally warming up here, hopefully itll get done next weekend.
Last question, when spraying with a rattle can, the how to says dont start of stop the spray over the bumper, so this leads me to believe Im painting it in up and down strokes? If i went left to right my strokes would be like 5 feet long.
Any technique suggestions, I know start light and work the color on over 3 coats or so.
Thanks again
Last question, when spraying with a rattle can, the how to says dont start of stop the spray over the bumper, so this leads me to believe Im painting it in up and down strokes? If i went left to right my strokes would be like 5 feet long.
Any technique suggestions, I know start light and work the color on over 3 coats or so.
Thanks again
#7
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
If it were me, I'd purchase some base coat + clear coat rattle can touch-up paint. They are fairly cheap, there's plenty in the can to do the whole area, and you'll get a much better finish. I just started playing around with these, and I'm really impressed at how easy they are to work with. Most auto parts stores have a moderate selection of them.
Painting technique is usually best from the top down (side-to-side, with each overlapping stroke lower than the last, 5' strokes are good). This way the drips run to the bottom and don't leave any trace. Most importantly, keep the spray perpendicular to the surface as much as possible. First you paint the areas that are hardest to reach if the part is complex with nooks and crannies, that way any overspray will be covered by your final coats. Not too many problem areas with the CETA except maybe the dividing groove and above your exhaust tips if they are in the way. With a base coat, you don't deposit much paint as it's very thin and fairly idiot-proof. Then the clearcoat goes on top, nice and wet to make the base coat shiny. You can use the Krylon, but it will build up a bit more unevenly, giving a bit of orange peel. Also, make sure to sand down the area with 600 grit and to wash it down with dish soap and hot water (let it air dry) before you start painting anything. I also recommend 1/4" vinyl tape for the masking.
Painting technique is usually best from the top down (side-to-side, with each overlapping stroke lower than the last, 5' strokes are good). This way the drips run to the bottom and don't leave any trace. Most importantly, keep the spray perpendicular to the surface as much as possible. First you paint the areas that are hardest to reach if the part is complex with nooks and crannies, that way any overspray will be covered by your final coats. Not too many problem areas with the CETA except maybe the dividing groove and above your exhaust tips if they are in the way. With a base coat, you don't deposit much paint as it's very thin and fairly idiot-proof. Then the clearcoat goes on top, nice and wet to make the base coat shiny. You can use the Krylon, but it will build up a bit more unevenly, giving a bit of orange peel. Also, make sure to sand down the area with 600 grit and to wash it down with dish soap and hot water (let it air dry) before you start painting anything. I also recommend 1/4" vinyl tape for the masking.