HotWhipT/A

iTrader: (31)

Fantastic work man! How many days/hours in that job?

CamaroSS27

iTrader: (6)

Man looks like you sure did spend some time on this, good work!

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

Nice work. Couple of questions......

-Do you put any car shampoo in the Foammaster II foam gun?
-How much shampoo did you add vs. water?
-Did you foam prior to using iron-x?
-Do you foam after iron-x?
-What are your thoughts on the Nanoskin vs. Clay bar. I am thinking about picking one up.

Products on my bucket list: Adams DWC, Iron X, Nanoskin, Foam gun.

Thanks

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I use Dawn/APC+/Adams car shampoo in the foam gun for the presoak. I put about two ounces of each and fill the rest up with water. If i'm doing a normal wash I use 2-3 oz of car shampoo and fill the rest up with water.

I always foam when I wash not just whe I use Iron X.
I don't foam after Iron X.

I'm pickup up the Nanoskin Autoscrub today. The Charger I'm doing right now has all sorts of stuff stuck to the paint. If I would clay it by hand it would probably take 5-6 hours(it's that bad)so it's worth it in this case to use to the autoscrub.

If the car wasn't this bad I would clay it by hand. I think it's an extra step breaking out the D/A just to clay a car, but with this Charger it's going to be worth it.

I've read a lot of good things about the nanoskin was mitts and towels but haven't used them yet. I'm sure I will pick one up in the future. Stick with the fine grade unless you are planning on polishing.

I hope this helps.

White.Lightning

iTrader: (53)

So you did.....

Rinse
Foam w/ dawn/APC/shampoo
Two bucket Wash while foamed
Rinse
Iron-X
Rinse

I've never used a foam gun or Iron X, so sorry for the dumb questions and thread hijack.

Rare96LT1Formula

iTrader: (32)

Thanks man. Funny how that "Ask a Professional Detailer" thread spawned a few professional detailers. Let me know if you ever need a hand on anything. I'm about 45 minutes southwest of Chicago.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

amazing man, simply amazing.

So how much would you charge someone to do all of this just for the labor if you had to?

Just wondering.

9WhiteCamaro9

You brought that car back. Great work on it.

Need to break out the stuff and do this to mine but I'm trying to get my car legal for the road again since I had issues with my insurance company and had the state send a letter wanting my tag.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

It's cool man, no worries. You are correct on the order, you want to dry the car before you Iron X it, if there is a bunch of water on it it will dilute the Iron X. You spray the Iron X on and let it dwell and the car will start bleeding purple if there are ferrous metals in the paint. After you let it dwell take a soft sponge, I use a grout sponge from lowes and glide it over the paint. The helps agitate and break loose the ferrous metal. The rinse really well. Oh, don't let the Iron X dry on the paint.

After that you would clay/nanoskin to complete the decon process. If there's anymore questions let me know. If I don't know the answer I will find someone who does.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I'm not quite understanding what you're asking.

egott_91

iTrader: (1)

Awesome!

Flow master on a mustang...how original. Lol.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I know right? lol. I thought the same thing when I was taking the picture.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

I'm just asking how much would you charge someone for labor to do what you did with that GT. Without the cost of all the product you used, just labor.

Reason being, from past experience, it looks like it was extensive. But you did everything that, that car really needed and it came out beautiful.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I don't consider myself a "professional" by any means but I get what you are saying. I'm sure Autogeek's stock went up after Jeff posted that thread. I wish you were a little bit closer I would take you up on the offer. I think you are about six hours north of me.

I can't answer that. The reason is I charge a flat hourly rate, I don't add anything on for the cost of the products I use unless it's Opti Coat because of how expensive it is. So the product cost is factored into my hourly rate. I don't ever know how much of whichever product I might use so there really is no way for me to say how much I would charge an hour minus the products.

I would only use the stuff I have because every car is different and I don't know 100% if product "A" and "B" are going to work on a particular vehicle. I have close to a dozen different compounds/polishes and probably just as many different type of pads. Does that make any sense? LOL.

This was a pretty extensive correction but there's been worse. The two things that help out greatly with this job is 1. FG400 and 2. The paint is extremely hard which finishes down nicely even when compounding. I probably would have had more time in this car if the paint would have been soft. I had right at 30 hours in this one.

Thanks for the kind words.

Raoul-Duke

iTrader: (6)

I was going to say I bet it was a decent amount of time. I've never seen a car transform as much as it did with this one.

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

I'll never own one, but those 2v Mustangs look absolutely great when they're all shined up, and sound soooooo good! Nice job!

HotWhipT/A

iTrader: (31)

I know you weren't particularly answering me, but I got what I wanted to know. You missed my simple question completely when replying back to us.

I hope you charge a decent amount. I charge a flat rate, but my breakdown of pay per hour is usually $20-30. Not too bad!

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I had missed your question previously. When I was reading through the thread this afternoon I saw it so that's why I made sure I said how much time I had in it. I apologize for not seeing sooner.

HotWhipT/A

iTrader: (31)

Thanks man

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Nice work! Looks way better.