01' Mustang GT full correction
#64
Jay, I've been following your threads and the Ask a detailer thread. i have a white TA that I'm going to do my first full correction on. It's not terrible, but I know it needs a good amount of time spent on it. It def has a slight yellowish tinge to it, after looking at what you did to this white mustang I'm ready to go at my TA and see what happens. You seem to really like Iron X, for a white car, sounds pretty much like a necessity, I'm going to guess you would highly recommend I use it? Is there anything else that could be used in it's place? (I'm thinking Sonax/Adam's DWC since they both bleed but I don't know if there really are any other similarities)
Thanks for the time, you (like Jeff did for you) have helped me learn a lot thus far and I'm eager to really put what I learned to the test
Thanks for the time, you (like Jeff did for you) have helped me learn a lot thus far and I'm eager to really put what I learned to the test
#65
Jay, I've been following your threads and the Ask a detailer thread. i have a white TA that I'm going to do my first full correction on. It's not terrible, but I know it needs a good amount of time spent on it. It def has a slight yellowish tinge to it, after looking at what you did to this white mustang I'm ready to go at my TA and see what happens. You seem to really like Iron X, for a white car, sounds pretty much like a necessity, I'm going to guess you would highly recommend I use it? Is there anything else that could be used in it's place? (I'm thinking Sonax/Adam's DWC since they both bleed but I don't know if there really are any other similarities)
Thanks for the time, you (like Jeff did for you) have helped me learn a lot thus far and I'm eager to really put what I learned to the test
Thanks for the time, you (like Jeff did for you) have helped me learn a lot thus far and I'm eager to really put what I learned to the test
I recommend Iron X or similar product for any color car not just white. I did a black Denali a couple months ago that bled purple for a long time, you just couldn't see it till it hit the floor.
You want your paint as clean as possible before you start correcting it so all that nasty stuff doesn't get in your pad and cause even more damage.
Also a thorough decon removal will help your wax/sealant bond to your paint better and will last longer.
If I haven't mentioned, Iron X freakin STINKS. The smell reminds me of when my mom would get her hair permed when I was a kid.
I'm glad I've been able to help you out.
#66
Yes I would recommend using Iron X, there are a few other products out there that do the same thing but I haven't used them. A friend of mine who's big into Adams products said some people use the DWC on paint. I can't comment either way on that. But if you look at the cost of Sonax/DWC vs. Iron X it would be cheaper to use the Iron X.
I recommend Iron X or similar product for any color car not just white. I did a black Denali a couple months ago that bled purple for a long time, you just couldn't see it till it hit the floor.
You want your paint as clean as possible before you start correcting it so all that nasty stuff doesn't get in your pad and cause even more damage.
Also a thorough decon removal will help your wax/sealant bond to your paint better and will last longer.
If I haven't mentioned, Iron X freakin STINKS. The smell reminds me of when my mom would get her hair permed when I was a kid.
I'm glad I've been able to help you out.
I recommend Iron X or similar product for any color car not just white. I did a black Denali a couple months ago that bled purple for a long time, you just couldn't see it till it hit the floor.
You want your paint as clean as possible before you start correcting it so all that nasty stuff doesn't get in your pad and cause even more damage.
Also a thorough decon removal will help your wax/sealant bond to your paint better and will last longer.
If I haven't mentioned, Iron X freakin STINKS. The smell reminds me of when my mom would get her hair permed when I was a kid.
I'm glad I've been able to help you out.
Thanks again
#67
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Jay, I've been following your threads and the Ask a detailer thread. i have a white TA that I'm going to do my first full correction on. It's not terrible, but I know it needs a good amount of time spent on it. It def has a slight yellowish tinge to it, after looking at what you did to this white mustang I'm ready to go at my TA and see what happens. You seem to really like Iron X, for a white car, sounds pretty much like a necessity, I'm going to guess you would highly recommend I use it? Is there anything else that could be used in it's place? (I'm thinking Sonax/Adam's DWC since they both bleed but I don't know if there really are any other similarities)
Thanks for the time, you (like Jeff did for you) have helped me learn a lot thus far and I'm eager to really put what I learned to the test
Thanks for the time, you (like Jeff did for you) have helped me learn a lot thus far and I'm eager to really put what I learned to the test
#68
http://www.carpro-us.com/decontaminate/
The decon process will get ride of a majority of the yellowish tint. Compounding/polishing will get rid of any oxidation on the paint.
#69
Yes I would recommend using Iron X, there are a few other products out there that do the same thing but I haven't used them. A friend of mine who's big into Adams products said some people use the DWC on paint. I can't comment either way on that. But if you look at the cost of Sonax/DWC vs. Iron X it would be cheaper to use the Iron X.
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Thanks again for your help
#71
Jay, nice work man, that car turned out really good for what it was.
I had a few questions about the FG400.. What pad where you polishing with it on? Does it work well enough so that you could maybe use it alone and then finish with a LSP after? I know with the PC to cut out decent marks you would need to come back with a ligther cutting pad, because it would leave behind micro marring and such that would need to be cleaned up.
Would you recommend the FG400 on a PC or does it not work hard enough to make it useful?
I got a ton of Chemical Guys products. I think I've got the whole V3x line.. I've heard it's a decent line, but there are obviously better products on the market. I have some Menzerna SIP left over. It's worked out well for me in the past, but it dusted a lot on me? Was I over using it, letting it dry up? Or is it just that dusty?
Everyone has recommended M105 and 205.. a Tried and true option I suppose.
I had a few questions about the FG400.. What pad where you polishing with it on? Does it work well enough so that you could maybe use it alone and then finish with a LSP after? I know with the PC to cut out decent marks you would need to come back with a ligther cutting pad, because it would leave behind micro marring and such that would need to be cleaned up.
Would you recommend the FG400 on a PC or does it not work hard enough to make it useful?
I got a ton of Chemical Guys products. I think I've got the whole V3x line.. I've heard it's a decent line, but there are obviously better products on the market. I have some Menzerna SIP left over. It's worked out well for me in the past, but it dusted a lot on me? Was I over using it, letting it dry up? Or is it just that dusty?
Everyone has recommended M105 and 205.. a Tried and true option I suppose.
#72
Jay, nice work man, that car turned out really good for what it was.
I had a few questions about the FG400.. What pad where you polishing with it on? Does it work well enough so that you could maybe use it alone and then finish with a LSP after? I know with the PC to cut out decent marks you would need to come back with a ligther cutting pad, because it would leave behind micro marring and such that would need to be cleaned up.
Would you recommend the FG400 on a PC or does it not work hard enough to make it useful?
I got a ton of Chemical Guys products. I think I've got the whole V3x line.. I've heard it's a decent line, but there are obviously better products on the market. I have some Menzerna SIP left over. It's worked out well for me in the past, but it dusted a lot on me? Was I over using it, letting it dry up? Or is it just that dusty?
Everyone has recommended M105 and 205.. a Tried and true option I suppose.
I had a few questions about the FG400.. What pad where you polishing with it on? Does it work well enough so that you could maybe use it alone and then finish with a LSP after? I know with the PC to cut out decent marks you would need to come back with a ligther cutting pad, because it would leave behind micro marring and such that would need to be cleaned up.
Would you recommend the FG400 on a PC or does it not work hard enough to make it useful?
I got a ton of Chemical Guys products. I think I've got the whole V3x line.. I've heard it's a decent line, but there are obviously better products on the market. I have some Menzerna SIP left over. It's worked out well for me in the past, but it dusted a lot on me? Was I over using it, letting it dry up? Or is it just that dusty?
Everyone has recommended M105 and 205.. a Tried and true option I suppose.
Depending on how hard the clear is and what pad you are using will determine if you need a second step not just because you are using a PC. If this clear wouldn't have been so hard I would have still used the FG400 but would have used a foam pad.
The PC is still very capable of removing defects especially with the the FG400.
M105 and M205 are good and have their place. FG400 has more cut than M105 ever thought about and finishes down very nice.
As far as the SIP drying up its hard to say, you could have been working it too long, using too much or not enough product.
I hope I've answered your questions, if not let me know. I would give the FG400 a try on the PC. You are going to get great results.
#74
The head lights should have been replaced but I did it to show how bad they can look and still be brought back.