Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

I kept the heater, A/C is gone. The air line you see controls the flapper doors in the HVAC box under the dash. All I did was take a section of the same plastic tube from a spare engine harness I had, and join it with heater tubing from the parts store to extend it.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

Yeah...the hard vac line coming off the harness...I knew about that one. I was talking about the larger hoses going from the firewall to back behind/under the PCM. I guess they are the heater hoses, but I thought it was AC lines. Either way it gave me an idea. LOL

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Oh, gotcha. Yea, those are the stock heater hoses. All the A/C stuff is gone. You should be able to find plenty of info on ditching A/C and keeping heat on here.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

I plan on keeping the AC.....I even have a couple cars that previous owners deleted the HVAC system from that I may add it all back. It get's too hot down here not to have it in a daily driver. Your picture gave me an idea about possibly hiding most of the AC and heater hoses though. I know some custom hoses would need to be built, but most local NAPA or Bumper To Bumper stores can make those.

U1D10T

With the exposed metal should we have any issue with rust?

silverWS.6

iTrader: (1)

You mean the hole that is cut to feed the harness through? I don't see how water or anything that could cause rust getting there. You could also give it a coat of paint with a small brush if you want.

crimson_bird

iTrader: (4)

^that. You can certainly just brush some paint on the edge to prevent that. Also add a grommet around the edge so that the hard edge is not exposed. When I did this mod I also repainted everything, so rust was never a concern.

Blownbayou

iTrader: (7)

Pic of mine with a few other mods done....

redcamaro4140

iTrader: (2)

Hey buddy will doing the wire mod hurt any of the car running stuff

TechCam97

iTrader: (5)

The only way you will hurt the car is if you half *** it and nick / cut wires that you shouldn't. Just take your time, be patient, and be sure to measure twice and cut once.

Bengtson95

what did you guys use to cut the hole?

TechCam97

iTrader: (5)

1-3/4 Bi-Metal hole saw. Lowes has them and it gets the job done very well. Just did a friend's car this past weekend actually.

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

I always thought you had to remove the fender to do this. I may be doing this soon, I relocated my passenger coils to the batterly location, and routed the wire bundle on the frame rail and Im not a fan of how it turned out. This would allow me to hide it all though I will end up with some excess wire because of it though

TechCam97

iTrader: (5)

Nope, just the plastic inner wheel well.

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

I would also get a electrical connector disconnect tool from Lisle... makes the job a **** ton easier.. dont forget to make a diagram on a notepad of which colored wire goes where in the connector...

TechCam97

iTrader: (5)

If you use a 1-3/4" hole saw, there is no need to break down the wiring connectors. They fit through perfectly!

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

1 3/4 hole saw is overkill.. I used a 1 inch hole saw and removed the connectors.

more time consuming but I also didnt want a giant hole..

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

A paperclip is much cheaper and works just as well.

LPE 403

iTrader: (6)

1 3/4 hole saws, connector disassembly....yikes, some of you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill, lol.

IIRC, I used a 1" hole saw, drilled two holes side by side keeping in mind the width of the widest plug connector and some play room for the next connector sharing the wiring from feeding the first harness through. Blend both holes together using a die grinder so that now you have a slot. Smooth rough edges, prep with paint, modify a grommet, start feeding wires.