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What's the difference in difficulty between soft and hard paint?
I always assumed the harder the paint, the more of a btch it is to work with
The harder the clear the harder it is to cut but less finicky to finish down because it takes so much to get it to move.
The softer the clear the faster it's will cut but it pushed around quite easy. The changes happen fast so if you tilt the polisher the wrong way, use the wrong product pad, even lift the polisher off the paint wrong the clear is so soft that your minor slip up will take effect. Hope that explains a bit, tried to fire this off quick while at work
The harder the clear the harder it is to cut but less finicky to finish down because it takes so much to get it to move.
The softer the clear the faster it's will cut but it pushed around quite easy. The changes happen fast so if you tilt the polisher the wrong way, use the wrong product pad, even lift the polisher off the paint wrong the clear is so soft that your minor slip up will take effect. Hope that explains a bit, tried to fire this off quick while at work
I would much rather work on hard paint any day....to a point. There are some really hard finicky paints also. Problem being that it clogs up the pad, especially a MF pad. I did a C5 Zo6 several months ago. C5's are known for having hard paint anyway, but I had never ran across anything like it before. Using a Rupes 21, Meg's cutting MF pad and M101 did absolutely nothing. Some people would have used a rotary and a wool pad to knock it down but I'm not a rotary guy and I'm not going to practice on a customers car, lol.
As strange as it sounds, what worked was a Meg's cutting MF disc and A LOT of M205 on a lower speed. I remember reading an article Kevin Brown wrote several years ago about alternative polishing methods. What I believe was happening was the M101 had "too much" cut and the abraded paint was basically glazing over the MF pad rendering it useless. M205 is normally considered a "polish". It's thin, has a ridiculous amount of work time and has lots of lubricants in it "I can't think of the technical term at the moment" Using a large of amount of M205 kept the MF pad wet and allowed the abraded paint to dissipate out of the MF pad. M205 itself doesn't have a lot of cut...but a MF pad does. It's basically the same thing when you wet sand paint. The water is there for lubrication and the sand paper is doing the cutting.
As strange as it sounds, what worked was a Meg's cutting MF disc and A LOT of M205 on a lower speed. I remember reading an article Kevin Brown wrote several years ago about alternative polishing methods. What I believe was happening was the M101 had "too much" cut and the abraded paint was basically glazing over the MF pad rendering it useless. M205 is normally considered a "polish". It's thin, has a ridiculous amount of work time and has lots of lubricants in it "I can't think of the technical term at the moment" Using a large of amount of M205 kept the MF pad wet and allowed the abraded paint to dissipate out of the MF pad. M205 itself doesn't have a lot of cut...but a MF pad does. It's basically the same thing when you wet sand paint. The water is there for lubrication and the sand paper is doing the cutting.
I will have to give this a try. I did a couple vehicles last week. 2017 Gt350 and a 2007 C6 Z06
The Gt350 paint was really nice to work with. The Z06 was extremely hard and I forgot my rotary which would have made it so much easier.
Any of you guys work with single stage paint much?
Every once in a while I do and use a glaze/ polish/ paint sealant.
What I'm wondering is thoughts on single stage paint if I were to use a glaze then polish then carpro Essence for a ceramic base, would Cquartz Uk 3.0 or any ceramic coating take to it?
Any of you guys work with single stage paint much?
Every once in a while I do and use a glaze/ polish/ paint sealant.
What I'm wondering is thoughts on single stage paint if I were to use a glaze then polish then carpro Essence for a ceramic base, would Cquartz Uk 3.0 or any ceramic coating take to it?
I wouldn't glaze it. I would be worried that Essence and UK wouldn't bond to the paint properly. It's been a while since I've looked but CQ said that they can't guarantee the same longevity results on SS paint. I've done a handful of SS cars.
Essence will fill in some very minor imperfections as it is. Just my .02
Any of you guys work with single stage paint much?
Every once in a while I do and use a glaze/ polish/ paint sealant.
What I'm wondering is thoughts on single stage paint if I were to use a glaze then polish then carpro Essence for a ceramic base, would Cquartz Uk 3.0 or any ceramic coating take to it?
Did a 55 Bellaire this past weekend. Single stage urethane that was last painted in '83. Boy o boy was that a tough one. I couldn't so much as wipe my polish off without leaving marks. Definitely a tough style of paint whatever the previous painter used. In the end it turned out damn good but many many frustrating points and quite a bit of redoing some of my work. Starting point After
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; 07-23-2018 at 04:43 PM.
Just a recommendation post..... Couple weeks ago I recieved some Carpro Ech2o and use it as a detail spray and the gloss and shine level is insane. I highly recommend you guys try it if you haven't already.
Just a recommendation post..... Couple weeks ago I recieved some Carpro Ech2o and use it as a detail spray and the gloss and shine level is insane. I highly recommend you guys try it if you haven't already.
You guys ever wash your vehicles with a waterless or rinseless wash?
I just did my first and it didn't feel right lol. I would probably only do it again in a pinch but I'm definitely not a fan of rinseless washes. And the traditional way seems just as efficient but does light years better job.
You guys ever wash your vehicles with a waterless or rinseless wash?
I just did my first and it didn't feel right lol. I would probably only do it again in a pinch but I'm definitely not a fan of rinseless washes. And the traditional way seems just as efficient but does light years better job.
Yup all the time. A rinseless wash takes some getting used to and they do a good job. It takes time to get a proper technique going with it. Once you experience a drought or some sort of water restriction you will be forced to use it more often just like us here in Southern California who adopted a rinseless wash and have become accustomed to it. It takes me less time to do a rinseless wash then a bucket wash.
Yup all the time. A rinseless wash takes some getting used to and they do a good job. It takes time to get a proper technique going with it. Once you experience a drought or some sort of water restriction you will be forced to use it more often just like us here in Southern California who adopted a rinseless wash and have become accustomed to it. It takes me less time to do a rinseless wash then a bucket wash.
I have done it a few more times now and am getting used to it.
I will have about 100 ml. of unopened coating and was wondering if there is a good way to store it that will prolong the shelf life. I will not be using it until next season so how long can I expect the ceramic to keep?
I have done it a few more times now and am getting used to it.
I will have about 100 ml. of unopened coating and was wondering if there is a good way to store it that will prolong the shelf life. I will not be using it until next season so how long can I expect the ceramic to keep?
You will get used to a rinseless. The first time it feels weird but after a few times one hones their technique and then it is all good. I have been doing a 2 bucket method as of late testing that out with some McKee's N914 and this seems to be like a great method. I have also used Optimum No Rinse and the Big Red Sponge with success. These two methods saved on the number of towels used in the so called Gary Dean method.
I store all of my coatings indoors on my shelf. I have had opened bottles that were sealed tight of DLUX last for a year. With Cquartz Classic and UK they are still fine after a few months. Same with some Gyeon coatings. The only coating that crystallized on me was GTechniq Crystal Serum Light that was never opened. I had it for 1 year. I have heard people store them in there fridge as well to keep them from being exposed to any air.
Some nice *** work guys!!!! It's not an easy job/hobby but seeing your completed work makes it all worth it for detailer, customer, and potential customers.
Couple questions, on my 01 Camaro I have CCW Classics and they are a pain in the *** to keep clean but look great when polished out. They weren't always taken care of the best probably because they are kinda time consuming to clean all the time unlike a big 5-star rim. What are some products you guys like to really polish up and protect on a wheel like mine? I've used this stuff called Wizards in the past it was like a fabric material that worked ok but can't seem to find anymore at retailers.
Second question what have you guys found to work best for headlight restoring? My 04 G35x work car has some pretty oxidized headlights and wondering what some have found to make them clear up best.
06-28-2018, 07:40 PM
