Engine Washing
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Engine Washing
With an LS1 engine there's a lot of wires and stuff take should not get wet, so what this the correct way of washing an LS1 engine? (a video would be nice).
#2
TECH Junkie
-Cover up computer, alternator and disconnect battery.
-Spray down with mild engine degreaser
-use a spray nozzle from a distance from a hose to wash it off
-blow dry with electric leaf blower($30)
-Hook battery up, drive..... good to go
-Spray down with mild engine degreaser
-use a spray nozzle from a distance from a hose to wash it off
-blow dry with electric leaf blower($30)
-Hook battery up, drive..... good to go
#4
TECH Junkie
If your engine compartment is not totally trashed then just cover a few things up, spray it down with degreaser then wash it off with water.
For the most part everything is water proof. I always point car on a slight decline nose first.
Here is a picture but I never had massive grim under the hood either. Just a quick soak (degreaser) and rinse works.
For the most part everything is water proof. I always point car on a slight decline nose first.
Here is a picture but I never had massive grim under the hood either. Just a quick soak (degreaser) and rinse works.
#7
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I agree, no need to cover anything unless you've removed the PCM before and not replaced the gaskets - I seem to remember GM recommending replacement of those any time that the harness is disconnected. Even then, it's probably not much of an issue unless you use high pressure. I do usually stuff some plastic in the air intake area of the lid, just to keep the air filter from getting saturated.
I also agree with the Simple Green recommendation for a moderately dirty engine bay. Something stronger will be needed if it's really bad. If it's generally just dusty with a bit of grime, I just use dish soap mixed with water in a spray bottle, and then a soft paint brush to lightly scrub where needed. For a rinse, you can use a garden hose with normal home water pressure. If you are really ****, you can use distilled water for the final rinse to avoid any water spots in areas that the leaf blower might not dry fully or quickly enough.
I also agree with the Simple Green recommendation for a moderately dirty engine bay. Something stronger will be needed if it's really bad. If it's generally just dusty with a bit of grime, I just use dish soap mixed with water in a spray bottle, and then a soft paint brush to lightly scrub where needed. For a rinse, you can use a garden hose with normal home water pressure. If you are really ****, you can use distilled water for the final rinse to avoid any water spots in areas that the leaf blower might not dry fully or quickly enough.
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#11
Launching!
I'm the original owner and washed the engine with Simple Green and use a electric leaf blower to dry it off, never covered anything from day one.
Only problem has been with the knock sensors under the intake getting wet and shorting out.
First time I replaced them when I installed a ZO6 intake and valley cover breather set up. At the time I was getting knock sensor codes.
Sealed up the rubber plugs with silicone, and probably about fourteen years later started getting several codes, checked resistance to knock sensors, some how water got in again (see photos).
I sealed the new ones in again, but now I also stuff a towel under the front of the intake to keep any water from flowing through there.
Only problem has been with the knock sensors under the intake getting wet and shorting out.
First time I replaced them when I installed a ZO6 intake and valley cover breather set up. At the time I was getting knock sensor codes.
Sealed up the rubber plugs with silicone, and probably about fourteen years later started getting several codes, checked resistance to knock sensors, some how water got in again (see photos).
I sealed the new ones in again, but now I also stuff a towel under the front of the intake to keep any water from flowing through there.
Last edited by 2000 WS6 Formula; 09-24-2016 at 10:15 PM.
#14
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This is where distilled water can be useful, as it won't leave spots during an air dry. You don't have to do the whole washing with it, but you can poor a couple gallons over everything for a final rinse and then just let it air dry if necessary. High speed driving would also dry it pretty quickly.
#15
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As mentioned about, you can use distilled water, and taking it for a drive will help rid the car if any sitting water. These days I only wash the 78 and a self-wash place and use the "spot-free final rinse" on every thing, so I guess that helps. Once I get back home I go over all of the visible parts with detailing spray to get them looking right. But as at as drying, nothing is really necessary
#17
Sorry for the thread necro but Im wondering if its ok to use an electric pressure washer on the engine bay without covering the alternator? The alternator is of particular concern because I was under the impression that was a part that needed to be covered but its also the part dirtiest in my car since the crappy power steering pump has coated it in power steering fluid. The car also has nitrous installed but I wouldn't be directly spraying the solenoids but I don't know if that is cause to avoid pressure washing the engine. What about the wiring harness if resistors were used to retard ignotion timing when the nitrous is armed?