Engine Washing
-Spray down with mild engine degreaser
-use a spray nozzle from a distance from a hose to wash it off
-blow dry with electric leaf blower($30)
-Hook battery up, drive..... good to go
For the most part everything is water proof. I always point car on a slight decline nose first.
Here is a picture but I never had massive grim under the hood either. Just a quick soak (degreaser) and rinse works.
I also agree with the Simple Green recommendation for a moderately dirty engine bay. Something stronger will be needed if it's really bad. If it's generally just dusty with a bit of grime, I just use dish soap mixed with water in a spray bottle, and then a soft paint brush to lightly scrub where needed. For a rinse, you can use a garden hose with normal home water pressure. If you are really ****, you can use distilled water for the final rinse to avoid any water spots in areas that the leaf blower might not dry fully or quickly enough.
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Only problem has been with the knock sensors under the intake getting wet and shorting out.
First time I replaced them when I installed a ZO6 intake and valley cover breather set up. At the time I was getting knock sensor codes.
Sealed up the rubber plugs with silicone, and probably about fourteen years later started getting several codes, checked resistance to knock sensors, some how water got in again (see photos).
I sealed the new ones in again, but now I also stuff a towel under the front of the intake to keep any water from flowing through there.
Last edited by 2000 WS6 Formula; Sep 24, 2016 at 10:15 PM.
As mentioned about, you can use distilled water, and taking it for a drive will help rid the car if any sitting water. These days I only wash the 78 and a self-wash place and use the "spot-free final rinse" on every thing, so I guess that helps. Once I get back home I go over all of the visible parts with detailing spray to get them looking right. But as at as drying, nothing is really necessary









