question bout removing side molding
#1
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question bout removing side molding
my car is a 1994 with 30,000 miles on it and the paint is in perfect shape. i'm worried bout removing the side molding as in the paint being a different color then the rest..
#2
Not likely, with the clear coat on there. If it varies a bit, it will be next to impossible to detect, if at all. Just use some polishing compound after you remove them, and it will all blend together nicely.
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does it sit outside in the sun a lot? If not and you keep it garage kept and babied, you shouldn't have a problem with it. Just try and take up a corner and check underneath to see it's condition. If its bad just readhere that spot down again.
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hair dryer or heat gun, if u use a heat gun becareful not to burn yourself, or even worse mess up ur paint..
start from one end heating up about 1ft. at a time and pull the molding strait up as you go (pulling it up will remove 90% of the old adhesive tape, if u pull strait out it will leave most on the car, meaning you will have alot more to clean off)
once you get the molding off use goo-gone to take off the rest of the gunk, "rolling" the gunk off with your fingers seems the be the prefered method but be sure to switch fingers or else you will get blisters.
many people use fishing string to aid in the removal (sliding it behind the molding and having it cut through the tape)
if you still need more info just search, there is tons of info on this subject
start from one end heating up about 1ft. at a time and pull the molding strait up as you go (pulling it up will remove 90% of the old adhesive tape, if u pull strait out it will leave most on the car, meaning you will have alot more to clean off)
once you get the molding off use goo-gone to take off the rest of the gunk, "rolling" the gunk off with your fingers seems the be the prefered method but be sure to switch fingers or else you will get blisters.
many people use fishing string to aid in the removal (sliding it behind the molding and having it cut through the tape)
if you still need more info just search, there is tons of info on this subject
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+1 on the heat gun. Just make sure you keep it about 6-8 inches and I pulled it about at a rate of a foot every minute (thats probably slow for some people) but that gave it just enough heat (on high) to just keep moving through it consistently. I probably pulled it at a 45 degree angle, but adjusted as I went. worked good for me. 98 with 60k, no hidden paint problems either.
start slow and as you get it, its easy.
start slow and as you get it, its easy.
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I pulled them this weekend, along with the trans am emblems. I like the cleaner look.
Removing the adhesive was a pita. I wish I would have taken more time with the heat gun. Its too easy just to rip off the molding once you get it started. If you take your time you can get most if not all of the adhesive with it.
#13
IF you are worried about the paint not matching, which it shouldn't, just take off the smallest piece of molding first. That's what I did. Once I saw that the paint under the molding matched the rest of the car, I took it off, including the Trans Am lettering.
Like everyone said, use a hair dryer, goo-gone, and do a lot of rubbing with your thumb.
Like everyone said, use a hair dryer, goo-gone, and do a lot of rubbing with your thumb.
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my molding came off right away.. most of the glue was still stuck to the car but came right off.
side note what did you guys do with your moldings? just curious. i'm keeping mine incase i want to renstall them. makes me nervous though cause that molding blocked car doors from bumping the door itself.
side note what did you guys do with your moldings? just curious. i'm keeping mine incase i want to renstall them. makes me nervous though cause that molding blocked car doors from bumping the door itself.
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Originally Posted by Tim Noel
Not likely, with the clear coat on there. If it varies a bit, it will be next to impossible to detect, if at all. Just use some polishing compound after you remove them, and it will all blend together nicely.