Appearance & Detailing Interior & Exterior Appearance Modifications

Project "ObseSSed"

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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 10:22 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by transam5.7lt1
Hey! I like it! Looks like those little scale cars from Dub City But in real life! Keep it up, it seems like it will get the power plant necessary to shut a lot of mouths.
and it also has the suspension to make all that power a complete waste..
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 10:43 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by Asmodeus
and it also has the suspension to make all that power a complete waste..
what do you know about air ride??
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 11:01 PM
  #183  
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Thanks Slammed. I hope to be able to do that someday soon. Where did you mount your blocks?

Oh yea this is my desktop background to keep me going
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 11:06 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by slammed1500
Ha, ha! That's what I want to do.
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 11:13 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by sporty_drew
Thanks Slammed. I hope to be able to do that someday soon. Where did you mount your blocks?

Oh yea this is my desktop background to keep me going
lol cool man glad u like it

the titanium blocks are alot brighter in person
the block were on the sub frame where the rear LCA's mounted
but now they will be mounting 2 the sub frame connectors
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 11:17 PM
  #186  
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when u starting on yours Jasonww
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Old Dec 22, 2007 | 11:20 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by slammed1500
when u starting on yours Jasonww
When he finishes designing it

I hope soon tho
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 12:02 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by slammed1500
when u starting on yours Jasonww
I'm thinking about buying a set of those front bags right now.

At the moment my car has a knocking rod so I'm not driving it. My replacement engine should be here in a week or less assuming it gets shipped soon. I need to buy a new clutch and get a set of headers for it as well.

I think I can get all 4 bags maybe and just run an inflation valve to each bag and get a small $30-$40 pump from Walmart. I can drive it around the back roads just to see how it feels. Well, I do need to send my front Koni's in to be checked out. The adjustors are real hard to turn. They have a lifetime warranty so I'd like to get that taken care of sometime or another.

So, I'm basically looking around at the places that sell the Aero Sport bag and the Double Play plus has fittings and so forth so I can order from hopefully one store instead of multiple stores.
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 12:44 AM
  #189  
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Hey Slammed1500 Nice *** ride man, dont mind the haters. keep up the good work
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #190  
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all welded up and grinded smooth


and with the master cylinder in so u can see how it fits

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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 07:11 PM
  #191  
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Looks good. I'm hoping my drop spindle idea works out so I don't have to do the A-arm mods and the humps to clear them. Are you going to have any plastic splash shields in the wheel wells?

Hey, on your rear wheel tubs, do the tubs extend all the way to the outer fender and then are sealed with silicone?
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 07:20 PM
  #192  
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the drop spindles will make it alot easier
i will have parts of the inner liner in the wheel wells but just in the front and rear

on the rear tubs i left part of the inner wheel well on the edge 2 weld 2 so i can close it off and every thing is going 2 be seam sealed
silicone is no 2 good it MAY cause rust

u can see a little in this pic
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 08:13 PM
  #193  
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So were you able to weld the tub to the outer fender skin without damaging the paint? I know you don't care about heat blistering any paint as your going to repaint the whole car, but I'm not sure I want to damage the paint on my car.

I have a dent on one rear fender so that side needs to be repainted anyway. If the best way of attaching the tub is to actually weld it to the fender metal then I may do that and have the other fender painted as well. Painting one extra fender would only run about $250 or so. I'm just trying to decide what's the best way to do it.

Looking at it, I may dolly and hammer the fender lips flat and then cut an extra metal strip to fill the gap between the inner edge of the tub down to that fender lip. If I do small tacks far apart it shouldn't warp the fender.



Or I could just tack the tub to the fender itself. That may not be the best idea, though.



Why do I see 2 rows of tack welds near your fender lips?

Last edited by JasonWW; Dec 23, 2007 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #194  
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definitely not for a camaro..I like them on trucks and stuff..this just looks way out of place on a camaro..but props to good work..definitely can appreciate that
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 10:19 PM
  #195  
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the stock wheel well is spot weld 2 the quarter's lip
i left part of the stock well on so that i can weld the new tub 2 it with out hitting the outer quarter panel but you have 2 be careful you dont put 2 much heat and bubble the paint on the quarters
i did cut the lip all the way 2 the spot tacks

there is a lil gap between the 2

almost like the first drawing
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 11:05 PM
  #196  
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OK, I was also following a thread on mini-tubing and they were saying that they are noy welding the tub to the outer quarter panel as there will be a little flex between them. They just get the 2 pieces close and fill the seam with silicone to allow for some flex, but keep dirt and noise out. I think It will all make sense once I start cutting parts out and I see things more clearly.
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Old Dec 24, 2007 | 02:45 AM
  #197  
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there was an episode on Spike not tht long ago about a airbag install on a red LS1 camaro, and they did the tests and all, and numbers improved on the track (they did the road course not drag race).

plus, its cool how you can lower it or raise it.

a lot of people here dont lower their cars, which i find weird, as camaros and TAs have stupid huge wheel gap



BTW dude, love the car and effort that went into it.,
i would change a few things, but cant wait to see what it looks like when painted up and those tails outta there.
keep up the good work, and ur old mans ride is sweet
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 03:32 AM
  #198  
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Another question for you. How practical are single switches wired to inflate both front bags? Does the pressure from the tank help equalize the sides so the car lifts both sides equally?

Or, if you have one of the front bags at a lower pressure so the car is tilted and then you open both front fill valves, would air from the higher pressure bag rush to the lower pressure bag to equalize themselves and then the front of the car lift evenly to the desired height?

I know I'm going to have control of all 4 corners, but I might tuck those 4 switches in the center console. I think the main controls I will use are front up/down and rear up/down. These 2 switches will be exposed and within easy reach for when I come up to a steep driveway and need to raise the front for clearance.

Would that work and sound practical or am I forgetting something?
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 08:38 PM
  #199  
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i just have 2 switches on my wifes car 4 front and rear
but i have a playstation controller that works all 4 corners also

but it will raise up pretty equal with just one switch but i would have something else so that u can equal it out just in case
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Old Dec 25, 2007 | 10:51 PM
  #200  
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i like it it is some thing different. way to think out side the box. keep up the good and hard work. havent done this on a 4th gen but done plenty of metal work and tubs, can be a bitch if anyone needs a toy i have a 02 tacoma laying frame for sale
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