Project "ObseSSed"
the titanium blocks are alot brighter in person
the block were on the sub frame where the rear LCA's mounted
but now they will be mounting 2 the sub frame connectors
At the moment my car has a knocking rod so I'm not driving it. My replacement engine should be here in a week or less assuming it gets shipped soon. I need to buy a new clutch and get a set of headers for it as well.
I think I can get all 4 bags maybe and just run an inflation valve to each bag and get a small $30-$40 pump from Walmart. I can drive it around the back roads just to see how it feels. Well, I do need to send my front Koni's in to be checked out. The adjustors are real hard to turn. They have a lifetime warranty so I'd like to get that taken care of sometime or another.
So, I'm basically looking around at the places that sell the Aero Sport bag and the Double Play plus has fittings and so forth so I can order from hopefully one store instead of multiple stores.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Hey, on your rear wheel tubs, do the tubs extend all the way to the outer fender and then are sealed with silicone?
i will have parts of the inner liner in the wheel wells but just in the front and rear
on the rear tubs i left part of the inner wheel well on the edge 2 weld 2 so i can close it off and every thing is going 2 be seam sealed
silicone is no 2 good it MAY cause rust
u can see a little in this pic
I have a dent on one rear fender so that side needs to be repainted anyway. If the best way of attaching the tub is to actually weld it to the fender metal then I may do that and have the other fender painted as well. Painting one extra fender would only run about $250 or so. I'm just trying to decide what's the best way to do it.
Looking at it, I may dolly and hammer the fender lips flat and then cut an extra metal strip to fill the gap between the inner edge of the tub down to that fender lip. If I do small tacks far apart it shouldn't warp the fender.

Or I could just tack the tub to the fender itself. That may not be the best idea, though.

Why do I see 2 rows of tack welds near your fender lips?
Last edited by JasonWW; Dec 23, 2007 at 08:26 PM.
i left part of the stock well on so that i can weld the new tub 2 it with out hitting the outer quarter panel but you have 2 be careful you dont put 2 much heat and bubble the paint on the quarters
i did cut the lip all the way 2 the spot tacks
there is a lil gap between the 2
almost like the first drawing
plus, its cool how you can lower it or raise it.
a lot of people here dont lower their cars, which i find weird, as camaros and TAs have stupid huge wheel gap
BTW dude, love the car and effort that went into it.,
i would change a few things, but cant wait to see what it looks like when painted up and those tails outta there.
keep up the good work, and ur old mans ride is sweet
Or, if you have one of the front bags at a lower pressure so the car is tilted and then you open both front fill valves, would air from the higher pressure bag rush to the lower pressure bag to equalize themselves and then the front of the car lift evenly to the desired height?
I know I'm going to have control of all 4 corners, but I might tuck those 4 switches in the center console. I think the main controls I will use are front up/down and rear up/down. These 2 switches will be exposed and within easy reach for when I come up to a steep driveway and need to raise the front for clearance.
Would that work and sound practical or am I forgetting something?
but i have a playstation controller that works all 4 corners also
but it will raise up pretty equal with just one switch but i would have something else so that u can equal it out just in case


Looks like those little scale cars from Dub City 


That's what I want to do.

