Project "ObseSSed"
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Webb City, MO...out in the garage
sweet car dude, i love it! people like you are what drive the industry, not the posers that buy off the shelf parts and pay shops to bolt them on so they can brag about going .2" faster 
Hey Kenny, do you have a sense of how low your F-body can be driven at? Let me show you this cool pic I drew up. Now beside the choptop I raised the front fender lip about 1" and then lowered the front a matching 1".
It puts the front crossmember pretty close to the ground. Now I do plan to lift the car for steep driveways and such, but I'm wondering how low is too low for everyday driving?
Btw, since you beat me to having the lowest F-body, the choptop is how I'll one-up you.
It puts the front crossmember pretty close to the ground. Now I do plan to lift the car for steep driveways and such, but I'm wondering how low is too low for everyday driving?
Btw, since you beat me to having the lowest F-body, the choptop is how I'll one-up you.
Last edited by JasonWW; Jan 31, 2008 at 01:49 AM.
It's just cosmetic. The Carbotech Panther Plus pads stop like gangbusters. I don't even need brake cooling ducts. I do have a plan setup to fit the 14" C6 Z06 rotors to the front if it want to. Here's a pic with the Z06 calipers although I plan to use 4 piston Brembo's from the CTS-V.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7BigBrake2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...7BigBrake2.jpg
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From: Marrero/ New Orleans
Hey Kenny, do you have a sense of how low your F-body can be driven at? Let me show you this cool pic I drew up. Now beside the choptop I raised the front fender lip about 1" and then lowered the front a matching 1".
It puts the front crossmember pretty close to the ground. Now I do plan to lift the car for steep driveways and such, but I'm wondering how low is too low for everyday driving?
Btw, since you beat me to having the lowest F-body, the choptop is how I'll one-up you.
It puts the front crossmember pretty close to the ground. Now I do plan to lift the car for steep driveways and such, but I'm wondering how low is too low for everyday driving?
Btw, since you beat me to having the lowest F-body, the choptop is how I'll one-up you.
as long as u have a stiff suspension u should be able 2 ride pretty low
that pic looks crazy with the choptop lol
man with the choptop and the car being slammed that thing going 2 look really low
I don't know if I'll have the time to do it, but it certainly looks possible. Have you considered it? You go to shows and I don't. It would sure draw a lot of attention. LS1 Tech Stories
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Do you have headers installed? (Well, I see you do) That's my next move and I'm wondering the best way to tuck them up high. I don't mind raising they floor boards some for room, but the headers themselves (longtubes) hang low. There's some stainless ones on ebay for about $250 shipped. I think I'm going to get those and see if I can mod them to make them tuck higher.
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From: Marrero/ New Orleans
Do you have headers installed? (Well, I see you do) That's my next move and I'm wondering the best way to tuck them up high. I don't mind raising they floor boards some for room, but the headers themselves (longtubes) hang low. There's some stainless ones on ebay for about $250 shipped. I think I'm going to get those and see if I can mod them to make them tuck higher.
i got a set of used pacesetters and im going 2 raise them and the floor a lil
I just got an engine installed 2 weeks ago. No ported heads for right now, but i do have the GM hotcam in it. Gives it a nice rumble, but I could definetely go bigger. The sound from the stock manifolds isn't that great, though. I went with an LS7 clutch. It's very smooth.
I'm going to be doing a front breather conversion and relocating the radiator. I'm going to also remove the upper and lower radiator crossmembers. I want to weld in a 2x4 tubing crossmember between the front framerails about a foot in front of the motor, before I cut the stock ones out. Any suggestions on a better way to tie them together?
I'll be getting the E-1 bumper as well.
click for photo on the E-1 bumper. $400
I gutted the stock lights as well and plan to finish my fixed projector headlight project. So the suspension stuff is going on the back burner for a while seeing as how the current suspension is fine.
I'm going to be doing a front breather conversion and relocating the radiator. I'm going to also remove the upper and lower radiator crossmembers. I want to weld in a 2x4 tubing crossmember between the front framerails about a foot in front of the motor, before I cut the stock ones out. Any suggestions on a better way to tie them together?
I'll be getting the E-1 bumper as well.
click for photo on the E-1 bumper. $400
I gutted the stock lights as well and plan to finish my fixed projector headlight project. So the suspension stuff is going on the back burner for a while seeing as how the current suspension is fine.
Thread Starter
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From: Marrero/ New Orleans
I'm going to be doing a front breather conversion and relocating the radiator. I'm going to also remove the upper and lower radiator crossmembers. I want to weld in a 2x4 tubing crossmember between the front framerails about a foot in front of the motor, before I cut the stock ones out. Any suggestions on a better way to tie them together?
I'll be getting the E-1 bumper as well.
click for photo on the E-1 bumper. $400
.
what u talking about relocate the radiator?
I'd like to get a short, wide radiator and ac condenser and mount it in the nose. The Jeep Cherokee from 91-01 has a nice unit. Since people like to do serious offloading with them, there are companies that make a heavy duty 3 core radiator for them. I'm not sure the cooling capacity will be enough, but it might. It will look similar to a front mount intercooler. See attachments
Or maybe I'll use the originals and flip the top forward like this:
I can then use ducts to direct the hot air out through vents in the hood. I'm also moving the dryer into the nose as well to clean things up.
I basically want a totally unique looking under hood area. Not the typical lid and MAF everyone has.
Or maybe I'll use the originals and flip the top forward like this:
I can then use ducts to direct the hot air out through vents in the hood. I'm also moving the dryer into the nose as well to clean things up.
I basically want a totally unique looking under hood area. Not the typical lid and MAF everyone has.
Last edited by JasonWW; May 11, 2008 at 11:02 PM.
