do converter every go bad?
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From: Lake Tapps, WA
do converter every go bad? I have a 1999 firehawk stock trans and converter, the car will brake stall up to 2600rpm, when traveling down the freeway I'm turning about an extra 500-600rpm over what the calculator says I should be. If a blip the throttle cruising the rpm goes up, good crisp shifts when on it. checked and the converter is being command to lock up but doesn't feel like it. Put a rebuilt valve body on it so shouldn't be an issue with the solenoidor bore wear. new filter, fluid looks great, 38K miles
Does this sound like a bad converter?
Does this sound like a bad converter?
Its possible but usually if the converter has been commanded to lock and does not you will set a code .
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it has had a pending P1870 that's when I replaced the valvebody and it still will set it. It hasn't actually turned on the CEL light but when you clear it eventually it shows up in pending again when you scan it.
Then likely its gonna be either the TCC solenoid, PWM solenoid, ORING damaged on input shaft Or some issue with the converter clutch then
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From: Lake Tapps, WA
The car runs around town like it's got a loose converter, 2000-2300 rpm around town the response between throttle input and car acceleration is sluggish. All the electrical components on the vavle body where replaced when rebuilding the valve body.
Its possible but near impossible to say without actually feeling or driving the car. The only way you will really know is to have the converter cut for sure.
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Converters can break in various ways:
- the TCC friction material can get glazed or it can break/peel off.
- the stator one-way roller can seize or break.
- the turbine fins can get bent/loose.
- the snout (pump drive) can crack or get grooved (leaks).
If the fins are bent or the stator freewheels, acceleration will be sluggish.
If the stator seizes, cruising speed will seem like car is holding back.
If TCC is damaged, then lockup will slip, generating heat.
There's more to it than "it's doing this, is it broken...?"... there could be a combination of problems.
Have someone who is familar with the feel of a stall converter test drive it... this will show any severe problems...
like Performabuilt said, the only way to know for sure is to have it cut open.
- the TCC friction material can get glazed or it can break/peel off.
- the stator one-way roller can seize or break.
- the turbine fins can get bent/loose.
- the snout (pump drive) can crack or get grooved (leaks).
If the fins are bent or the stator freewheels, acceleration will be sluggish.
If the stator seizes, cruising speed will seem like car is holding back.
If TCC is damaged, then lockup will slip, generating heat.
There's more to it than "it's doing this, is it broken...?"... there could be a combination of problems.
Have someone who is familar with the feel of a stall converter test drive it... this will show any severe problems...
like Performabuilt said, the only way to know for sure is to have it cut open.
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From: Lake Tapps, WA
I guess the best way to describe it is the car feels like it's got a loose stall, lots of rpm to get it moving and to keep it going. It feels like the old high stall converters without the kick. I'm putting a converter in it this week.
Also the 4l60E in my suburban if you run it up again the brakes it will start to pull throught them at about 1600rpm doing the same thing in my firehawk I went up to 2600rpm and stopped. Also the motor needs to be turning 2200-2500rpm to push the car along.
Also the 4l60E in my suburban if you run it up again the brakes it will start to pull throught them at about 1600rpm doing the same thing in my firehawk I went up to 2600rpm and stopped. Also the motor needs to be turning 2200-2500rpm to push the car along.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
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From: So.Cal.
I guess the best way to describe it is the car feels like it's got a loose stall, lots of rpm to get it moving and to keep it going. It feels like the old high stall converters without the kick. I'm putting a converter in it this week.
Also the 4l60E in my suburban if you run it up again the brakes it will start to pull throught them at about 1600rpm doing the same thing in my firehawk I went up to 2600rpm and stopped. Also the motor needs to be turning 2200-2500rpm to push the car along.
Also the 4l60E in my suburban if you run it up again the brakes it will start to pull throught them at about 1600rpm doing the same thing in my firehawk I went up to 2600rpm and stopped. Also the motor needs to be turning 2200-2500rpm to push the car along.
