4l80e pressure test results
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
4l80e pressure test results all the pres. were read at 1200 rpm(why, because my book on turbo 400's has that, so the 4l80e's may be diff)
with the mod hooked up unhooked
park-100 psi 110
rev- 125 psi 110
neu-100 psi 110
4th-45 psi 45
3rd- 70 psi 70
2nd- 70 psi 70
1st- 65 psi 65
when i nailed it in 1st, w/o the mod, would go up to 175, with mod hooked up,
150-i ran it on my lift, didnt actually drive it
not sure how much the 10" converter affects all this, or when the converter reaches its max pres
with the mod hooked up unhooked
park-100 psi 110
rev- 125 psi 110
neu-100 psi 110
4th-45 psi 45
3rd- 70 psi 70
2nd- 70 psi 70
1st- 65 psi 65
when i nailed it in 1st, w/o the mod, would go up to 175, with mod hooked up,
150-i ran it on my lift, didnt actually drive it
not sure how much the 10" converter affects all this, or when the converter reaches its max pres
Your line pressure even idling with the MOD unhooked should go to max line which should be about 180 to 230 psi
Looks like you have a pump or pressure control issue
Looks like you have a pump or pressure control issue
__________________
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
for some reason it grouped all the #'s together when i posted, the ones on the left were with the mod. hooked up, the ones on the right unhooked-i use full vacume
i took it out for a spin, when i hit it in 1st, and shifted, the pres droped to about 35 psi
at this point i dont know what the hell im doing-looking in the atsg book, drive, park or neut. should have 157-177 at idle, with min. amps on force motor, which i would assume would be my mod. with the vac. disc
rev should be over 300?
no telling where the problem could be, the pump was dead on specs
the only thing i was concerned about was having to beat the alumn. plugs
into a tight fit on the sep plate, trying to file them down, and hope it seals
i took it out for a spin, when i hit it in 1st, and shifted, the pres droped to about 35 psi
at this point i dont know what the hell im doing-looking in the atsg book, drive, park or neut. should have 157-177 at idle, with min. amps on force motor, which i would assume would be my mod. with the vac. disc
rev should be over 300?
no telling where the problem could be, the pump was dead on specs
the only thing i was concerned about was having to beat the alumn. plugs
into a tight fit on the sep plate, trying to file them down, and hope it seals
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Az
for some reason it grouped all the #'s together when i posted, the ones on the left were with the mod. hooked up, the ones on the right unhooked-i use full vacume
i took it out for a spin, when i hit it in 1st, and shifted, the pres droped to about 35 psi
at this point i dont know what the hell im doing-looking in the atsg book, drive, park or neut. should have 157-177 at idle, with min. amps on force motor, which i would assume would be my mod. with the vac. disc
rev should be over 300?
no telling where the problem could be, the pump was dead on specs
the only thing i was concerned about was having to beat the alumn. plugs
into a tight fit on the sep plate, trying to file them down, and hope it seals
i took it out for a spin, when i hit it in 1st, and shifted, the pres droped to about 35 psi
at this point i dont know what the hell im doing-looking in the atsg book, drive, park or neut. should have 157-177 at idle, with min. amps on force motor, which i would assume would be my mod. with the vac. disc
rev should be over 300?
no telling where the problem could be, the pump was dead on specs
the only thing i was concerned about was having to beat the alumn. plugs
into a tight fit on the sep plate, trying to file them down, and hope it seals
There is a major internal leak somewere in the modifications. What was the kit number you used?
The first thing I would do is pop off the pan and check the pressure regulator assembly.
Be sure everything is installed correctly, the boost valve isn't assembled backwards, snap ring is actually in its groove.
Be sure the VB and plates are tight.
Did you install the little pin in the valve body between the vacuum modulator and the VB? It's easy to drop and not realize.
If you need any help, I'm very familiar with the TG -3 kit and I'll try to help you figure it out.
Be sure everything is installed correctly, the boost valve isn't assembled backwards, snap ring is actually in its groove.
Be sure the VB and plates are tight.
Did you install the little pin in the valve body between the vacuum modulator and the VB? It's easy to drop and not realize.
If you need any help, I'm very familiar with the TG -3 kit and I'll try to help you figure it out.
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I have the same Transgo kit in my transmission. My initial pressure numbers were off due to low fluid level, but now with the engine at around 1300 rpm it has the following with the MOD unhooked.
Park: 150
Reverse: 250
Overdrive: 140
Third: 150
Second: 150
First: 150
I did notice that increasing the engine RPM raised the pressure some. I don't know if these are good or bad, or what the ideal pressure is for 1st - 4th. My first test drive should be tomorrow.
Park: 150
Reverse: 250
Overdrive: 140
Third: 150
Second: 150
First: 150
I did notice that increasing the engine RPM raised the pressure some. I don't know if these are good or bad, or what the ideal pressure is for 1st - 4th. My first test drive should be tomorrow.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,188
Likes: 292
From: woodbine, md
def sounds like i have low pressure for some reason, have to figure out how to eliminate the pump-i have a gut feeling maybe those split rings with spacers on the pump, turbine shaft were not a good idea (a seal kit from Transgo, #4l80e-htrk) i thought it was a way of getting around the "seal sizer" deal so i wouldnt need the tool, but i noticed if your not careful, those rings can slip out, and you might not notice, but the asemb. grease held them pretty good
def have the pin in the mod-i can rem the press. valve with the trans in the car, ck it, but pretty sure its in right
i have a lift in my garage(best thing i ever did), and good heat, so its only a 1 hour job pulling the trans, just the converter bolts are a pita with the starter in, lol
thank goodness for a 2 stage trans jack, dont think i could lift the trans any higher
Jake, pm me your # if you dont mind, i had it somewhere not sure where
i'll pull the pan, v/b before rem the trans, maybe find a gasket not sealing or something
def have the pin in the mod-i can rem the press. valve with the trans in the car, ck it, but pretty sure its in right
i have a lift in my garage(best thing i ever did), and good heat, so its only a 1 hour job pulling the trans, just the converter bolts are a pita with the starter in, lol
thank goodness for a 2 stage trans jack, dont think i could lift the trans any higher
Jake, pm me your # if you dont mind, i had it somewhere not sure where
i'll pull the pan, v/b before rem the trans, maybe find a gasket not sealing or something
You don't need the seal sizers anyway. You can use electrical tape to size the rings.
Or plastic from a soda bottle or similar to make a tool and use hose clamps.
The TransGo rings are OK and I don't think you have that much pressure loss at the rings anyway.
Or plastic from a soda bottle or similar to make a tool and use hose clamps.
The TransGo rings are OK and I don't think you have that much pressure loss at the rings anyway.
