F**K prothane tranny mounts!!!
03-21-2010, 11:03 PM
#61
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Where can u buy a good factory style one? The only place i can find them in stock around here is Advanced auto for 14 bucks, but i have to change them after every 2 or 3 days! They don't last long at all. Nothing like the trans bashing the bottom of the car unexpectedly to scare your passenger half to death either. I think my Girlfriend is used to it now, but it makes me want to bash my head off the window. I am so sick of changing those damn things.
04-10-2010, 04:31 PM
#64
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polly motor mounts and energy suspension trans mount here and pinion angle set right where it needs to be and no unusual vibrations, good for a best of 1.4960ft and still no vibrations. Lets hope it stays that way 
04-10-2010, 05:35 PM
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i have an energy suspensions t/a and trans mount and the only shaking i get is from my cam no vibes here.... i think you guys that get the bad vibes might have some other issues you may not be aware of...
no vibes here.... i think you guys that get the bad vibes might have some other issues you may not be aware of...
04-10-2010, 08:57 PM
#66
Yeah I'm sure I've got a wheel that's got a slight balance issue. I can still watch the passenger seat dance on the interstate. I noticed the bad vibrations (with the poly trans mount) even after I installed a new S60 rear and new PST driveshaft, and koni shocks. I changed back to the rubber mount shortly after and that got rid of my vibrations, mostly.
05-27-2010, 09:39 PM
#67
When I bought my car it had stock engine mounts and an Energy Suspension tranny mount and it had a slight vibration around 2,000 RPM. When putting on longtube headers I did the poly engine mounts and the vibration was the same. I recently changed the clutch and the car started vibrating worse- thinking maybe I got an out of balance clutch set??? I don't know if disturbing the trans mount caused it to vibrate worse. It was really bad and I was afraid to drive it. Put the car up on a lift with someone holding the gas at 2K RPM and holding a screwdriver on all parts under the car and the worst of the vibration is coming from the RH header; trans and bellhousing have little noticeable vibration. Ended up driving it and the vibration reduced slightly- maybe the trans mount settling back in???? Anyway going to try the 94-97 Firebird rubber mount from NAPA and see what happens. I'll report the results.
05-28-2010, 06:45 PM
#68
Installed a rubber trans mount from Pep Boys ($14) and it took about 90% of the vibration away. I'll chalk up the little bit of vibration I have to poly engine mounts and 107K mile engine. The car is MUCH MUCH more enjoyable to drive. This thread was very informative and helped me "fix" my car. To those of you that have a street car/occasional drag with long tube headers I recommend poly engine mounts and a rubber trans mount. If you really like your **** smooth do all rubber mounts and new rubber engine mounts when doing headers and if the y-pipe hits the floor "clearance" the Y-pipe.
07-07-2010, 01:09 AM
#69
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I out in a poly trans mount and had nothing but really bad vibrations with it. I balanced the drive shaft, wheels and tires, and new trans/converter and still had the problem. I put in a $17.00 rubber trans mount from napa and it fixed 90-95% of the vibration problems! Thank god and LS1tech!!
07-12-2010, 11:34 AM
#70
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Like the title says WOW they really REALLY suck! (cant stress that enough!)
For the last year now I've been trying to trace vibrations/ changing pinion angles/ having my driveshaft balanced, even bought a second driveshaft! / replaced U-joint's/ replaced convertor (well that one just wanted to go bigger
) but it didnt help with the vibes! And have been to the transmission shop numerous times trying to get them to figure it out. Not to mention the hours I've spent under the car myself 
... and finally FINALLY! thanks to advice off LS1Tech just switched back to a stock rubber mount I picked up at napa for $21 ******* dollars and that just fixed 95% of my vibrations!
Holly **** are you kidding me!? I'm so happy right now I can drive on the freeway again, and at the same time SOOO pissed at prothane and the jackass who designed their poly trans mount I wish I could kick him square in the nuts so ******* hard for all the money and headach that mount has caused me!
Anyone with an automatic who is thinking of using prothane or any poly trans mount for that matter DONT DO IT! Its not worth it I'd much rather have to replace a torn rubber mount occasionally than ever go back to poly!
And btw the napa mount i got is only listed for 94-97 firebirds but it works great on LS1's trust me! End Rant! I think I'm going to go for a drive and actually enjoy it for the first time in forever... THANK YOU LS1tech!!!
For the last year now I've been trying to trace vibrations/ changing pinion angles/ having my driveshaft balanced, even bought a second driveshaft! / replaced U-joint's/ replaced convertor (well that one just wanted to go bigger
) but it didnt help with the vibes! And have been to the transmission shop numerous times trying to get them to figure it out. Not to mention the hours I've spent under the car myself ... and finally FINALLY! thanks to advice off LS1Tech just switched back to a stock rubber mount I picked up at napa for $21 ******* dollars and that just fixed 95% of my vibrations! Holly **** are you kidding me!? I'm so happy right now I can drive on the freeway again, and at the same time SOOO pissed at prothane and the jackass who designed their poly trans mount I wish I could kick him square in the nuts so ******* hard for all the money and headach that mount has caused me!
Anyone with an automatic who is thinking of using prothane or any poly trans mount for that matter DONT DO IT! Its not worth it I'd much rather have to replace a torn rubber mount occasionally than ever go back to poly!
And btw the napa mount i got is only listed for 94-97 firebirds but it works great on LS1's trust me! End Rant! I think I'm going to go for a drive and actually enjoy it for the first time in forever... THANK YOU LS1tech!!!
01ws666,
You are the fuking **** sir! So picked up the NAPA 94-97 Firebird rubber job and it took out all vibs like you said. I just put on a Poly trans mount and the 2K RPM range was so rough, my *** would sting due to the vibration. I could not find a 01 Camaro Stock replacement at NAPA, AutoZone and had to go the poly route. Parkway Chevrolet in Tomball Texas wanted $80.00 for the stocker. So that's why I went poly.
We need to get a pic of why it works so well. The NAPA part is not a solid rubber core; it has an oval look to it and provides additional isolation for the vibs. Thank you Sir, you should get a Gold Star!
07-12-2010, 02:10 PM
#71
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I drove cross country twice with poly trans mount on but they certainly were annoying. And they get worse after 10s of thousands of miles. Car vibrates, mirror shakes, etc. I have 16" rims too. Hate poly mounts. Going back to stock mounts soon.
07-13-2010, 09:57 PM
#72
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As bad as it sounds after I had U joints installed I thought it threw off my driveshaft balance somehow. I will be swapping my prothane mount out with the stock one to see if this helps, Mine vibrates like a Mo Fo at 80 and up as well. I've set the BMR Torque arms pininion angle 3 times thinking it was off but i just get the same thing. My pinion angle is set at -2. We'll see what happens when I swap that **** out. Hopefully I dont break them every month as I did when I first got the car, lol! Weak bastard stock mounts all though they seem to do the job from what I've read.
07-24-2010, 12:58 PM
#73
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94 Formula Hello, anybody have some input or solutions for this?
I had the following done and now have unusual vibrations and noise. I understand using a poly tranny mount can do this from reading this thread.
However, I think the mechanic may have screwed up the pinion angle.
In the process of an inspection the garage told me the lower rear control arm bushings needed to be replaced and I asked them to check the tranny mount.
The tranny rubber mount was broke. I purchased the Prothane Kit 7-227 for the control arms and a separate Poly tranny mount.
When he was installing the front lower control arm bushings the mechanic said the 1 of the bushings was different than what was on the car. He said the car had 1 bushing in it and the kit had a 2 piece bushing to use. 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. Maybe it was the lower front bushing he was referring to.
He changed those lower control arm bushings on both sides, the front stabilizer links (moog blue poly)and changed the tranny mount. Now it over steers and the steering wheel doesn’t come back to center by itself like it use to. He told me I need an alignment now. I also had him change the pinion seal since there was some evidence of a leak allthough I never saw anything on the ground from it.
I have read about changing the pinion seal with the mention of marking the nut and counting the threads to unscrew the nut and using the same number of threads to put it back on. I found this information after he did it so I was not able to tell him when he did it.
If he didn't do it that way does that affect the pinion angle? How can I tell if the pinion angle is correct? I want to check the pinion angle and try it with the poly trans mount before I revert back to a rubber mount.
What is the best rubber mount if I need to go back to that?
All reccommendations are much appreciated.
Thanks
I had the following done and now have unusual vibrations and noise. I understand using a poly tranny mount can do this from reading this thread.
However, I think the mechanic may have screwed up the pinion angle.
In the process of an inspection the garage told me the lower rear control arm bushings needed to be replaced and I asked them to check the tranny mount.
The tranny rubber mount was broke. I purchased the Prothane Kit 7-227 for the control arms and a separate Poly tranny mount.
When he was installing the front lower control arm bushings the mechanic said the 1 of the bushings was different than what was on the car. He said the car had 1 bushing in it and the kit had a 2 piece bushing to use. 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. Maybe it was the lower front bushing he was referring to.
He changed those lower control arm bushings on both sides, the front stabilizer links (moog blue poly)and changed the tranny mount. Now it over steers and the steering wheel doesn’t come back to center by itself like it use to. He told me I need an alignment now. I also had him change the pinion seal since there was some evidence of a leak allthough I never saw anything on the ground from it.
I have read about changing the pinion seal with the mention of marking the nut and counting the threads to unscrew the nut and using the same number of threads to put it back on. I found this information after he did it so I was not able to tell him when he did it.
If he didn't do it that way does that affect the pinion angle? How can I tell if the pinion angle is correct? I want to check the pinion angle and try it with the poly trans mount before I revert back to a rubber mount.
What is the best rubber mount if I need to go back to that?
All reccommendations are much appreciated.
Thanks
Last edited by DataCom; 07-24-2010 at 01:12 PM.
07-24-2010, 06:43 PM
#74
Do you have an adjustable torque arm? If not then the pinion angle won't be any differen since that's going to be fixed with the stock torque arm. You're referring to pinion preload. If it's too loose then the first thing that you'd notice is that it's louder, and you would hear it making other noises too.
07-25-2010, 09:42 AM
#75
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Do you have an adjustable torque arm? If not then the pinion angle won't be any differen since that's going to be fixed with the stock torque arm. You're referring to pinion preload. If it's too loose then the first thing that you'd notice is that it's louder, and you would hear it making other noises too.
Your saying pinion angle can only be changed if the torque arm is adjustable?
I guess I don't understand that part as how can the torque arm adjust the pinion angle? I will have to look at the torque arm.
From what I have read so far if the nut and position of the yoke on the pinion are not marked and put back together identical to the same position and location it will affect the crush sleeve (pinion preload) and in the event of doing it blindly(unmarked), the crush sleeve should have measured for thickness before removal and been replaced before they put it back together. That is what effects pinion pre load correct? At this point I do understand that using a poly trans mount will alter the trans tail shaft angle since the poly doesn't collapse(change height) like a rubber mount will with weight on it. This probably affects the harmonic balancer angle as well.
Will the front lower control arm bushings have any affect on the height?
As far as noise, yes it is louder and I can hear what appears to be a vibration coming from the back of the car. I test drove it after they did the work and quit using it till this is resolved.
Last edited by DataCom; 07-25-2010 at 11:01 AM.
07-26-2010, 07:54 PM
#77
The mounts don't CAUSE vibrations. The job of an engine or transmission mount is to positively locate the driveline in the vehicle AND to isolate the body from vibration and noise to some extent. Also, for someone looking to transmit as much power to the ground as possible, solid mounts would be ideal, followed by poly mounts, then lastly stock rubber mounts. As stated above, there are tradeoffs for any performance enhancment. The stock rubber mount's job is to MASK vibrations in your drivetrain. Just because you don't feel those vibrations anymore, doesn't mean they aren't there...
Shane
Shane
Agreed w 110%!!! The more solid your mounts the more Vibs your going to feel in your car Because they dont give as much....I have Had solid motor mounts w Poly Trans Mount AND Poly all the way around....and NEVER had a problem like what the OP has. FYI when adj pin angle on ANY car good rule of thumb is to put the angle finder on your Harmonic Balancer and start From there Mine was at +2 on the balancer so if you want your Rear Pinon angle at -2 to the car you would set it at 0 in my case a perfect drive train is set up on all HOT Rods to be perfectly Flat in line w its self NOT the Horizon.....and if your running a spool in th rear for EX your going to feel every little thing if you have your drive line off at all.
07-26-2010, 08:33 PM
#79
Your saying pinion angle can only be changed if the torque arm is adjustable?
I guess I don't understand that part as how can the torque arm adjust the pinion angle? I will have to look at the torque arm.
From what I have read so far if the nut and position of the yoke on the pinion are not marked and put back together identical to the same position and location it will affect the crush sleeve (pinion preload) and in the event of doing it blindly(unmarked), the crush sleeve should have measured for thickness before removal and been replaced before they put it back together. That is what effects pinion pre load correct? At this point I do understand that using a poly trans mount will alter the trans tail shaft angle since the poly doesn't collapse(change height) like a rubber mount will with weight on it. This probably affects the harmonic balancer angle as well.
Will the front lower control arm bushings have any affect on the height?
As far as noise, yes it is louder and I can hear what appears to be a vibration coming from the back of the car. I test drove it after they did the work and quit using it till this is resolved.
I guess I don't understand that part as how can the torque arm adjust the pinion angle? I will have to look at the torque arm.
From what I have read so far if the nut and position of the yoke on the pinion are not marked and put back together identical to the same position and location it will affect the crush sleeve (pinion preload) and in the event of doing it blindly(unmarked), the crush sleeve should have measured for thickness before removal and been replaced before they put it back together. That is what effects pinion pre load correct? At this point I do understand that using a poly trans mount will alter the trans tail shaft angle since the poly doesn't collapse(change height) like a rubber mount will with weight on it. This probably affects the harmonic balancer angle as well.
Will the front lower control arm bushings have any affect on the height?
As far as noise, yes it is louder and I can hear what appears to be a vibration coming from the back of the car. I test drove it after they did the work and quit using it till this is resolved.
If your running the stock 10 bolt that came in our cars you can't take the pinon nut off and put it back on w out screwing up your gear pattern our stock rear uses a crush style shim and onces it crushed you have to replace it to re torque the pinon nut....a moser 12bolt and 9in usualy use a solid spacer so you can get away w doing this...hope this helps
Last edited by 1999FirehawkLS1; 07-27-2010 at 05:51 PM.
