What converter brand
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I have a 95 lt1 and was wondering what brand converter yall recomend, I like tci prices or are vig. the way to go even though they cost twice as much. IM probelly goig to get a 3500. do i need aa aftermarket trans cooler. And what other things should i buy to go along with the install.
Thanks
Thanks
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95TA,
You'll like the TCI converter. You'll pick up a lot of performance for the money. I would recommend a cooler and a TCI shift kit while you're at it. Keep in mind that some of the OBDI cars requires reprogramming when you go with a 3500 converter. On a real hard launch, the computer sees the torque converter slip and throws a code. Ed Wright says that he has the cure for that.
K1
You'll like the TCI converter. You'll pick up a lot of performance for the money. I would recommend a cooler and a TCI shift kit while you're at it. Keep in mind that some of the OBDI cars requires reprogramming when you go with a 3500 converter. On a real hard launch, the computer sees the torque converter slip and throws a code. Ed Wright says that he has the cure for that.
K1
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Kevin, most, if not all of the 95 F-bodies are OBDII. GM was a little ahead of the times on that one. ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Personally 95TA, I'm a Yank fan. But you'll get as many different answers as you will replies in this thread I'm sure. All the brands (Vig, TCI, Yank) will run a good number, but the Yanks seem to have the best top end efficency. The Vig converters I've seen are terrible with top end efficency, and although TCI advertises high efficency I have not seen proof or disproof just yet.
Also, the Vig converters notoriously have a higher-than-advertised stall rating. If you're in the market for a 3500 converter and go with Vig, a 3200 will probably be closer to what you need. A lot also has to do with your gearing. Does your car have 2.73 gears or 3.23 gears? The "looseness" factor of a converter has a lot to do with rear gearing.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Personally 95TA, I'm a Yank fan. But you'll get as many different answers as you will replies in this thread I'm sure. All the brands (Vig, TCI, Yank) will run a good number, but the Yanks seem to have the best top end efficency. The Vig converters I've seen are terrible with top end efficency, and although TCI advertises high efficency I have not seen proof or disproof just yet.
Also, the Vig converters notoriously have a higher-than-advertised stall rating. If you're in the market for a 3500 converter and go with Vig, a 3200 will probably be closer to what you need. A lot also has to do with your gearing. Does your car have 2.73 gears or 3.23 gears? The "looseness" factor of a converter has a lot to do with rear gearing.
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With 3.73 the converter should feel pretty "tight", meaning under light throttle the car should move fairly normally without a lot of slippage. The STR (Stall Torque Ratio) has a lot to do with it also. A higher STR, like 2.5, will hit VERY hard off the bottom, and feel tight. A lower STR, like the SY3500 with 1.86 STR, will have a softer hit, feel looser, but be a little more efficent up top.
OBDII, or OBD 2, is the latest version of on board diagnostics for cars. OBDII was a standard that was put in place as mandatory in 1996 for all cars sold in the US. Compared to OBDI (OBD one) it more closely moniters engine performance and sensor feedback, as well as adding additional O2 sensors after the catalysts to moniter their performance. The ultimate goal was reducing emmissions by requiring the vehicle computer to moniter critical engine and emission performance functions. The advantage to us is OBDII systems are an open standard, allowing us (and independant shops, not just dealers) affordable and comprehensive abilities to diagnose and tune computer controlled cars.OBDI computers required expensive, dedicated scan tools or expensive upgrades and adapters to read different manufacturers. Even then, many times very little sensor information was available to a technition.
The easy way to tell if your car is OBDI or OBDII is to look at the diagnostic connector under the dash on the drivers side. If the connector is trapazoidial (sp?) in shape, it's OBDII. If it's rectangular (on GM cars) it's OBDI.
OBDII, or OBD 2, is the latest version of on board diagnostics for cars. OBDII was a standard that was put in place as mandatory in 1996 for all cars sold in the US. Compared to OBDI (OBD one) it more closely moniters engine performance and sensor feedback, as well as adding additional O2 sensors after the catalysts to moniter their performance. The ultimate goal was reducing emmissions by requiring the vehicle computer to moniter critical engine and emission performance functions. The advantage to us is OBDII systems are an open standard, allowing us (and independant shops, not just dealers) affordable and comprehensive abilities to diagnose and tune computer controlled cars.OBDI computers required expensive, dedicated scan tools or expensive upgrades and adapters to read different manufacturers. Even then, many times very little sensor information was available to a technition.
The easy way to tell if your car is OBDI or OBDII is to look at the diagnostic connector under the dash on the drivers side. If the connector is trapazoidial (sp?) in shape, it's OBDII. If it's rectangular (on GM cars) it's OBDI.
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I'm happy with my Vig., but honestly you cant go wrong with any of your suggestions. You will hear people praising all of those brands...Yank, Vig., and TCI. They all seem to offer a quality product. I chose Precision Industries because of recomendations and one free re-stall (which I have taken advantage of) I am tempted to try another brand though....just not sure which one.
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95TA,
I feel confident that if you're mechanically inclined enough to install a torque converter, that you can install one of our shift kits. They're a breeze compared to some that are on the market. TCI part number 376001. Although I wouldn't say that it's mandatory, you will be glad that you installed the shift kit. TCI part number 243110 is a 3500 stall converter for your car. You'll definitely need some sticky tires with that converter and 3.73 gears.
Pete2k_Z28,
Actually, the '95 model F-body was OBD I, but because it had the OBD II connector under the dash some people thought that meant it was OBD II. It's printed on the emmisions decal under the hood as to what gen the diagnostics were.
http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/obd_info.jpg
Here's a link to another website that explains a little more about it.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=obd+what+year
K1
I feel confident that if you're mechanically inclined enough to install a torque converter, that you can install one of our shift kits. They're a breeze compared to some that are on the market. TCI part number 376001. Although I wouldn't say that it's mandatory, you will be glad that you installed the shift kit. TCI part number 243110 is a 3500 stall converter for your car. You'll definitely need some sticky tires with that converter and 3.73 gears.
Pete2k_Z28,
Actually, the '95 model F-body was OBD I, but because it had the OBD II connector under the dash some people thought that meant it was OBD II. It's printed on the emmisions decal under the hood as to what gen the diagnostics were.
http://csce.uark.edu/~jgbertr/rb/obd_info.jpg
Here's a link to another website that explains a little more about it.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=obd+what+year
K1
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Kevin, most, if not all of the 95 F-bodies are OBDII. GM was a little ahead of the times on that one. ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Personally 95TA, I'm a Yank fan. But you'll get as many different answers as you will replies in this thread I'm sure. All the brands (Vig, TCI, Yank) will run a good number, but the Yanks seem to have the best top end efficency. The Vig converters I've seen are terrible with top end efficency, and although TCI advertises high efficency I have not seen proof or disproof just yet.
Also, the Vig converters notoriously have a higher-than-advertised stall rating. If you're in the market for a 3500 converter and go with Vig, a 3200 will probably be closer to what you need. A lot also has to do with your gearing. Does your car have 2.73 gears or 3.23 gears? The "looseness" factor of a converter has a lot to do with rear gearing.
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Personally 95TA, I'm a Yank fan. But you'll get as many different answers as you will replies in this thread I'm sure. All the brands (Vig, TCI, Yank) will run a good number, but the Yanks seem to have the best top end efficency. The Vig converters I've seen are terrible with top end efficency, and although TCI advertises high efficency I have not seen proof or disproof just yet.
Also, the Vig converters notoriously have a higher-than-advertised stall rating. If you're in the market for a 3500 converter and go with Vig, a 3200 will probably be closer to what you need. A lot also has to do with your gearing. Does your car have 2.73 gears or 3.23 gears? The "looseness" factor of a converter has a lot to do with rear gearing.
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Thanks Kevin and Joe for clearing that up for me ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
I had been told by MANY people that most 95F-bodies were OBDII. I guess they made the same mistake I did; not knowing an OBDI car would have an OBDII connector.
Who knew?
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
I had been told by MANY people that most 95F-bodies were OBDII. I guess they made the same mistake I did; not knowing an OBDI car would have an OBDII connector.
Who knew?
![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
#13
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I have a raptor 9" converter with billet cover.
My 60ft's are 1.60's on motor and low 1.5's
on juice(100shot). Im very happy with the converter. BTW, it's a 3500stall and costs $450.
Oh yeah, it's also 18lbs lighter than the vig3200 stall
I had before
My 60ft's are 1.60's on motor and low 1.5's
on juice(100shot). Im very happy with the converter. BTW, it's a 3500stall and costs $450.
Oh yeah, it's also 18lbs lighter than the vig3200 stall
I had before
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GreekZ, not to hijack this thread but aside from the improved 60' how do you like the converter? Is it efficient up top? I think their other products are great (Billet servo's, etc) but never heard anything about their converters so I was a little weary about them, wich is why I went Yank. Do you know what the STR is on that converter?
#15
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GreekZ, not to hijack this thread but aside from the improved 60' how do you like the converter? Is it efficient up top? I think their other products are great (Billet servo's, etc) but never heard anything about their converters so I was a little weary about them, wich is why I went Yank. Do you know what the STR is on that converter?
As for being efficient, I think my mph is on the low side
but it's also a non-lockup converter which is why it's so
much lighter than the vig I had before. I've had it for over
a year now with no problems. I think the converter is rated
to handle 800hp. The guys there are very helpfull and their
service is great. You can check out their products on
their website: www.transmissioncenter.net
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Ahh, it's non-lockup. That explains a lot ![Winky](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_wink.gif)
Yeah they got great stuff. I just ordered the Beast sunshell, billet intermediate servo, raybestos 3/4's, and a Pro Series band. Cant wait to see how it all works behind the new SS 3600
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Yeah they got great stuff. I just ordered the Beast sunshell, billet intermediate servo, raybestos 3/4's, and a Pro Series band. Cant wait to see how it all works behind the new SS 3600
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#17
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I got a tci 3500 w/ 2.5 str and 3.23 gears and couldnt be happier, no traction probs on the street (unless you want them
) Dont forget the cooler, its a must. I dont have the shift kit and it works just fine. Just wish I would have gone bigger now
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