Park to drive question
Going from park to drive or any gear it hits hard.It just about bangs into gear.I did check the tune,Not much more I can do there.I did freshen it up over the winter,But it didn't bang into gear when I first took it out in March.It's just starting to do it.I remember setting up the 1-2 or 2-3 acumulater I forget and it went into gear nice.Over the the winter I think I put it back together different,Could that be it? Or something else should I look for........................Paul
Sounds like you have a high line pressure condition. I would get a pressure gauge on the trans to see what the pressure is in park. Are you getting any codes that are EPC/PCS related? Maybe when you freshened up the trans you forgot to plug the pressure solenoid in. This will result in a high line pressure condition. Also verify that the case connector is fully installed and has a good solid connection with the internal transmission harness. I have seen issues here in the past as well. Vince
The last shop I worked in they liked to use aftermarket harnesses. I know they could be installed two ways. Don't hold me to this because I can't remember what it did exactly on the dyno. If memory serves me correctly, when the harness connector for the epc/pcs was installed backwards, the pressures would work backwards. Meaning high pressure at idle. On the aftermarket harness, on one side of the connector there are two little raised sections on the connector. We called these ski's. These need to face the solenoid. If they are facing outward from the epc it would not work correctly. A builder that I worked with told me a trick to remember which way the connection went. He said when ever he skied he would always ski into a tree! That is how he always remembered which way the connector went. Ski's in! I will have to confirm this next time I get some time on the dyno as to what it does. I have worked on transmissions for many years. It is a bad thing when you have forgotten more than you can remember!
Also you should make sure that the connectors are tight on the solenoid. Another thing to check if you had the boost valve out of the pump. Make sure the inner smaller spring, also known as the bumper spring, is seated correctly. I have seen when it is not it correctly, it will pin the pressure regulator valve in a high line position. Make sure the bumper spring floats in the pump. I always make sure to shake the pump when I install this lineup. You should be able to hear the boost valve stroke. Just a thought. Make sure to let me know what you find. Vince
Also you should make sure that the connectors are tight on the solenoid. Another thing to check if you had the boost valve out of the pump. Make sure the inner smaller spring, also known as the bumper spring, is seated correctly. I have seen when it is not it correctly, it will pin the pressure regulator valve in a high line position. Make sure the bumper spring floats in the pump. I always make sure to shake the pump when I install this lineup. You should be able to hear the boost valve stroke. Just a thought. Make sure to let me know what you find. Vince Could you possibly have assembled the forward clutch accum backwards ?
You said you took it out in march and it was fine was this before of after the build?
You said you took it out in march and it was fine was this before of after the build?
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The last shop I worked in they liked to use aftermarket harnesses. I know they could be installed two ways. Don't hold me to this because I can't remember what it did exactly on the dyno. If memory serves me correctly, when the harness connector for the epc/pcs was installed backwards, the pressures would work backwards. Meaning high pressure at idle. On the aftermarket harness, on one side of the connector there are two little raised sections on the connector. We called these ski's. These need to face the solenoid. If they are facing outward from the epc it would not work correctly. A builder that I worked with told me a trick to remember which way the connection went. He said when ever he skied he would always ski into a tree! That is how he always remembered which way the connector went. Ski's in! I will have to confirm this next time I get some time on the dyno as to what it does. I have worked on transmissions for many years. It is a bad thing when you have forgotten more than you can remember!
Also you should make sure that the connectors are tight on the solenoid. Another thing to check if you had the boost valve out of the pump. Make sure the inner smaller spring, also known as the bumper spring, is seated correctly. I have seen when it is not it correctly, it will pin the pressure regulator valve in a high line position. Make sure the bumper spring floats in the pump. I always make sure to shake the pump when I install this lineup. You should be able to hear the boost valve stroke. Just a thought. Make sure to let me know what you find. Vince
Also you should make sure that the connectors are tight on the solenoid. Another thing to check if you had the boost valve out of the pump. Make sure the inner smaller spring, also known as the bumper spring, is seated correctly. I have seen when it is not it correctly, it will pin the pressure regulator valve in a high line position. Make sure the bumper spring floats in the pump. I always make sure to shake the pump when I install this lineup. You should be able to hear the boost valve stroke. Just a thought. Make sure to let me know what you find. Vince
Do you have a picture on how it should be?This all started to come on gradual.I also put in new solinoids before this started happening,Except the pressure solinoid.Maybe I'll put the original one's back in.Thanks Frank! I'll keep you guy's posted..................Paul OK I dropped the pan,Took the 1-2 accumulator apart,Took out a spacer I had in there,Checked the boost valve,Thats OK.I didn't change the harness,Could not push the clips in to get it out,I would need that special tool.I unplugged it and plugged it back in,Seems to be OK.But it stills bangs into gear
.I have EFIlive and I messed with the force motor current and that helped.Just a thought,I had a code come up for the #6 coil,I changed the coil,spark plug wire,Checked the wires going to the pcm,Nothing worked.So I changed the PCM and the code is gone and the car idle's betteralso.So it might have been the PCM.I'll see today,Was to late last night.If it is not the PCM,Could I have a blown seal inside the trans or a stuck check ball or something?.........Paul
.I have EFIlive and I messed with the force motor current and that helped.Just a thought,I had a code come up for the #6 coil,I changed the coil,spark plug wire,Checked the wires going to the pcm,Nothing worked.So I changed the PCM and the code is gone and the car idle's betteralso.So it might have been the PCM.I'll see today,Was to late last night.If it is not the PCM,Could I have a blown seal inside the trans or a stuck check ball or something?.........Paul Trending Topics
Are you by chance running a tune without a MAF and have the MAF tuned out? If you are there are a couple options in the trans diagnostics section of your tuner that you need to turn off. In HPtuners its Max Line Pressure DTC options P0101, P0102, P0103 and you need to set them to disabled. With them enabled anytime you get these codes it maxes out line pressure in the trans. Don't know what your setup is but this could be it.
Are they off in the trans diagnostics section of your tuner as well as the DTC section? With HPtuners those particular codes are in both sections of the software. The ones in the trans diagnostics section is what causes the high line pressures.
You said you checked the 1-2 accum but what about the forward clutch accum the one on the valve body with the three 8mm bolts holding the cover on?
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No Frank,I did not check that.I'll check that during the week.How should I set up the 1-2 accum? I have it now like picture that the transgo shift kit has it,Blue spring,Disk & orange spring,Under the blue spring is a type of washer.Thanks............Paul
Not that I am aware of the forward clutch accum should be stock . disk then springs then cover
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Well I like its stock and use the larger feed hole for second, But thats not the source of the slam into drive.
The layout you have for it sounds correct to the transgo kit.
The layout you have for it sounds correct to the transgo kit.
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I think I might have found something.I hooked up the scanner from EFILive with all the trans tables.And one part say's SOLENOID D SHORT TO 12V and it has a YES next to it.Anybody know what Solenoid D is.
To the best of my knowledge on a 4l60e there is no solenoid D Now some types of cars made by GM may have a solenoid D perhaps GM software cover multiple vehicles.
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