Converter shudder....PLEASE HELP
Converter shudder....PLEASE HELP Hi guys. This is my first post here. I have asked this question on several forums and can not get a straight answer from anyone.
I have a '96 Z28 A4. Ever since I got the car in March, the car shudders while coming to a stop, then jerks really hard when im almost totally about to stop, and thats when the shuddering stops. It does not do it in neutral. I'm thinking the converter is not fully unlocking, and when the car is almost fully stopped, it unlocks and thats when it jerks hard. Can someone please help me out? Thanks.
Matt
I have a '96 Z28 A4. Ever since I got the car in March, the car shudders while coming to a stop, then jerks really hard when im almost totally about to stop, and thats when the shuddering stops. It does not do it in neutral. I'm thinking the converter is not fully unlocking, and when the car is almost fully stopped, it unlocks and thats when it jerks hard. Can someone please help me out? Thanks.
Matt
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,514
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From: Long Island, NY
i would probably replace the TC anyway but you might have a PCM problem where the computer isnt recognizing your speed, gear choice and braking force....the TC should unlock THE SECOND the breaks are applied....is this a stock converter???? if so ditch it and buy a vig anyway....you wont be sorry...good luck
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 521
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From: Farmingdale NJ
Sounds like a bad TCC PWM solenoid, or a restriction in the fluid circut that is not allowing the clutch to disengage. Could also be a PCM problem but that's not very likely. If it's not internal the most likely cause is a wiring problem, such as a pinched wire, etc.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 521
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From: Farmingdale NJ
Also check the operation of your brake lights, make sure the switch is functioning. If you have access to a Tech2, see if the BCM is recieving a signal for brake pedal apply.
By the way, does it also happen if you shift to neutral during braking?
By the way, does it also happen if you shift to neutral during braking?
It does not happen if I put the car in neutral. I highly doubt it's the PCM because it happened with my old PCM, and still happens with my madz28.com custom tuned PCM (I bought a whole new PCM, I still have the old one). How should I go about checking the wires? How hard is it to change the solenoid? Do you have a part number?
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
From: Farmingdale NJ
The solenoid is a very easy change, just requires a pan drop. Sorry I don't have a part # handy.
As far as checking the wires, look for obvious signs first. Is the harness rubbing somewhere? Stuck to exhaust or header components? Pull the connector off the trans (Big grey one on pass side). Is there corrosion? Beyond that electrical diagnostics become more difficult.
If I think of any other simple tests you can make I'll let you know
As far as checking the wires, look for obvious signs first. Is the harness rubbing somewhere? Stuck to exhaust or header components? Pull the connector off the trans (Big grey one on pass side). Is there corrosion? Beyond that electrical diagnostics become more difficult.
If I think of any other simple tests you can make I'll let you know
Alright thanks.....what about those fluid additives? I remember someone mentioning they had converter shudder and they added "Transmission fluid friction modifier" and it got rid of it. My friend thinks I should run Transmedic through it.....what do you think?
Is this the part I'm looking for?
51873
TCC (PWM) Solenoid 1995-on $35.85
from:
http://www.drivetrain.com/4l60e.html
51873
TCC (PWM) Solenoid 1995-on $35.85
from:
http://www.drivetrain.com/4l60e.html
Originally Posted by flyinZ
ya, there is an additive that Midwest sells for their converters...I just received it from them...They say it helps, but I haven't give it enough time to work yet
I had an old Olds beater that I put some of that snake
oil in and within the week the trans quit. I would stay
away from anything that claims to have "seal-swell" or
seal conditioners, their idea of conditioning is softening
and swelling them up but this also weakens them.
Dunno about the friction modifiers but the juice I put
in that was supposed to have different friction modifiers
(B&M) modified it so my TCC squealed like a pig. Might
just start off with a straight fluid (Dex) & filter change.
When's the last time, anyway?
oil in and within the week the trans quit. I would stay
away from anything that claims to have "seal-swell" or
seal conditioners, their idea of conditioning is softening
and swelling them up but this also weakens them.
Dunno about the friction modifiers but the juice I put
in that was supposed to have different friction modifiers
(B&M) modified it so my TCC squealed like a pig. Might
just start off with a straight fluid (Dex) & filter change.
When's the last time, anyway?