Stall Question
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Stall Question I have a 2001 Camaro SS A4 STOCK except SLP LM1 exhaust and a Diablosport Tune.
My tranny is making noise and about to probably take a crap on me, so I was planning on beefing up the tranny, putting in a mild shift kit and mild stall while I'm having to rebuild it anyway.
I'm planning on keeping the car pretty much stock atleast till I pay it off......and even then, it will only be bolt on's probably....
What brand and size stall should I get?
How will it effect my day to day driving?? I don't want anything crazy....
What kind of shift kit? I want it to drive pretty much normal until I nail it......
Would I be better off just rebuilding my stock tranny or buying an already built tranny and stall and having it installed?
How much should I expect to pay someone locally to R&R my tranny and rebuild it? If It's cheaper, I can provide some of the parts to the rebuilder.....
Do I need a tune for the stall?? I have a diablosport, can I use that to re-tune???
any help is greatly appreciated....thanks in advance guys!!!!
My tranny is making noise and about to probably take a crap on me, so I was planning on beefing up the tranny, putting in a mild shift kit and mild stall while I'm having to rebuild it anyway.
I'm planning on keeping the car pretty much stock atleast till I pay it off......and even then, it will only be bolt on's probably....
What brand and size stall should I get?
How will it effect my day to day driving?? I don't want anything crazy....
What kind of shift kit? I want it to drive pretty much normal until I nail it......
Would I be better off just rebuilding my stock tranny or buying an already built tranny and stall and having it installed?
How much should I expect to pay someone locally to R&R my tranny and rebuild it? If It's cheaper, I can provide some of the parts to the rebuilder.....
Do I need a tune for the stall?? I have a diablosport, can I use that to re-tune???
any help is greatly appreciated....thanks in advance guys!!!!
ls1 a4 id do a 3600 stall yank or a precision industries always seem to work well. tuning wise id get rid of the torque managment on it. there are many sponsors on here, finish line transmissions and performabuilt are two id look in to...pm them and they an help u out.
I agree and I have had both the Yank and Precision Industries ..just don't short cut on the stall get at least a 3,200. I have a 3,600 and can daily drive it but when you get on it..look out!
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Dont go lower then 3200. For stock cam a 3600 is a perfect match up but a 3200 will still see a great improvement over stock. I like to see a 4k in any car running a 220 or bigger cam.
ditto on 01ss. A 3600 minimum. we build these converters that will drive very close to stock under light pedal and shine when you stomp it. The 3200 will give you great performance gains as well but not as much as the 3600. there is not much difference between the driveability of the two.
Greg
Greg
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The fallacy of the torque converter debate rages. Your torque converter should be picked to optimize your torque and horsepower curves, along with the weight of the car, suspension setup, and tire choice. Furthermore, you also have to weigh in the STR ratio and stall in terms of driveability and usage of the vehicle.
If you are staying pretty much stock/bolt ons right now, I think I would stay in the 3200-3400 range at most. With your setup, you make a broad range of power and torque, so you want to make sure you don't short change the torque curve.
Lets look at two identical cars, one with a big stall (4000) and one that is a 3200 stall
Notice the torque curve below each of their stall speeds. The 4K stall basically is flat, because you are past your torque peak and it is pretty flat after that. The lower speed stall was a quicker car, and was a lot more fun to drive.
If you are staying pretty much stock/bolt ons right now, I think I would stay in the 3200-3400 range at most. With your setup, you make a broad range of power and torque, so you want to make sure you don't short change the torque curve.
Lets look at two identical cars, one with a big stall (4000) and one that is a 3200 stall
Notice the torque curve below each of their stall speeds. The 4K stall basically is flat, because you are past your torque peak and it is pretty flat after that. The lower speed stall was a quicker car, and was a lot more fun to drive.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I agree, as I have always heard you keep your converter speed under your peak torque or you are just spinning your wheels so to speak. A stock LS1's torque peaks at what rpm??? Anyone know?
What type of gears do you have in the rear? I recommend (have done similar myself) to go with a 3200 Stall. I am running a Vig 3200 with a cam/procharger setup. I wouldn't go to a 3600+ unless you were at least doing heads/cam.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I discussed this just yesterday with someone who claimed you dont need gears in the rear end. But he was claiming he had 550hp. Well no you dont need gears when you have have a boosted 550hp, however when you are NA and 375 well it changes things a tad.
MadIce, where is your powerband with a procharger? Bc my stock LS still had dead spots after a 3200 stall. Hence my recommendation for a 3600.
MadIce, where is your powerband with a procharger? Bc my stock LS still had dead spots after a 3200 stall. Hence my recommendation for a 3600.
The converter has to be configured for the car. i would like to see time slips from the car that made the dyno pulls. It all depends on the car and the application. we can go on for hours about this but the facts are what puts down the best ET. You can have the same static stall at 3600 and be built with different strs and one will look better on the chassis dyno than the other but yet the one that looks the worse will out run the other in real time. In other words not all 3600 converters all built the same. This is assuming that both converters were built to be 3600 behind your combo. While converter X is 3600 behind your combo at 350 ft lbs it will be much higher at 550 ft lbs.The problem with a dyno is there is no momentum of weight as far as making 1/4 mile predictions. I do think dynos a great tuning tools but to make an assumption as to what converter is faster on the dyno is tough.
Greg
Greg
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
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FTI COMPETITION CONVERTERS AND TRANSMISSIONS
"IT'S NOT CHEATING, IT'S THE COMPETITIVE EDGE."
1-866-726-8358
info@ftiperformance.com
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FTI Converter build sheet
