Shift Solenoid LED Light Mod
Thanks.
Parts- all from radio shack cheap
1-Three 12v LEDs They can be different colors(NO LIGHT BULBS WILL NOT WORK)
2-Some sort of bevel to mount them in Or you can mount them in a panel in your car permanent.
3-Three lengths of wire. Perferably different colors to avoid confusion.
4-Blue side wire splicers the type you use pliers to push down the tab to make a splice.
Ok you want to hook the three wires to the following in the harness either at the trans or find them at the PCM
A-Light green wire. This is the 1-2 shift solenoid.
B-Yellow with black stripe. This is the 2-3 shift solenoid
C-Tan wire with black stripe. This is the lockup (TCC)
solenoid.
Do not cut the wires use the slicers and connect your wires one to each and then run them into the car.
Inside the car take each wire and hook up to the negative side of the LEDs choose which ones you want to represent each solenoid.
Tie the POSITIVE side of all the LEDs together and run a wire to a 12v switched source(radio fuse)
Ok now its simple
(1-2)on and (2-3) on is 1st gear
(1-2)off and (2-3) on is second gear
(both off ) is 3rd gear
(1-2)on and (2-3) off is 4th gear
TCC on means your converter should be locked.
"This IMO is cool and helpful no more will you wonder if that 2-3 shift that hit the limiter was tuning or trans related and you will know the time from comand to actual shift watching when the lights iluminate and feeling when the shift happens. This could be usefull when setting shift poits since the time is a constant.
No more wondering wether your converter not being locked is a tuning or transmission issue you will see when and if the PCM comands lockup and this can all be done for less than $10 and 30 minutes setting it up.
Hope someone finds this usefull was thinking I have explained this a dozen times to people trying to solve various lockup and shifting issue and may or may not have scanner tools and its proved invaluable to them so why not just post it for anyone who might wanna make a new toy/gadget."
Feel free to ask questions.
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[/IMG]Here is the 12v switched source that I have under my dash that I tied into and for other various items.
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[/IMG] Last edited by LeftySS; Jan 12, 2010 at 09:40 AM.
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Frank at PerformaBuilt
Frank at PerformaBuilt
Thanks for the link Frank. That sticky should come in very handy this spring when I am tuning at the track. So at the track would you recommended putting the car in D3 or D4 to race?
Thanks.
The pro is with the trans in the D position the overun clutch is on which provides additional support and strength to the sprag.
The con is that in the 60e the overun clutch is turnoff during second gear then turns back on in 3rd gear at the same time as the 3-4 clutch is being applied. So you have agiven amount of fluild to fill two chambers rather than 1 which can delay the 2-3 shift a little and the apply presure during the apply of the clutch.
Now And ideal scenaro is launch in manual low then move the shifter dorectly to the overdrive position, which sorta gives the best of both worlds.
Generally though with a well built unit and we advise with our units just to leave in the OD position and let the computer do its thing. Since most built transmissions have upgraded input sprags to handle this.














