Auto reasoning
#1
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Auto reasoning
Why should I stick with my auto car?
Made 398 rwhp, 395 rwtq, locked converter. Unlocked, knock what... 25 hp off that (3600 stall from Edge racing)? So I'm effectively racing around with ~375 hp, similar torque. Meanwhile, the manual version would not only make ~415 hp, similar torque to the wheels, but they would have all of it available when racing. That's a big difference to me, and it kind of opened my eyes when I had that actually explained to me.
Anyway... give me good reasoning on why this auto is going to be best in the long run.
Made 398 rwhp, 395 rwtq, locked converter. Unlocked, knock what... 25 hp off that (3600 stall from Edge racing)? So I'm effectively racing around with ~375 hp, similar torque. Meanwhile, the manual version would not only make ~415 hp, similar torque to the wheels, but they would have all of it available when racing. That's a big difference to me, and it kind of opened my eyes when I had that actually explained to me.
Anyway... give me good reasoning on why this auto is going to be best in the long run.
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Even if it can achieve a quicker E/T, that's something I only ever do once or twice a year max... on M/T drag radials no less. Most of the time, I'm on street tires crusing to and from classes. I don't feel it's worth the power loss
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You got it explained to you from a biased source I can tell. Autos are the faster car, period. Dont believe me? Go ask around at a drag strip. Ok, so you arent a track guy. Lets talk about auto vs. M6. Yes they will out dyno you. If you want dyno numbers buy an M6, plain and simple. You have a trans that takes a little more hp to run. Well, the advantage goes back to you ten fold because of the torque converter. Thats your key to beat an M6 car. How this works is simple, its called torque multiplication and shift extension. A manual car produces 1 foot/pound of torque and 1 foot/pound goes to the wheels. Plain and simple. With a converter with a 2.5 str, that means it takes your engine's 1 foot/pound and multiplies it to 2.5 foot/pounds. Now imagine that times 200. Wow, thats impressive. This happens mostly off the line and as rpms/speed increases this advantage goes away. So all else being equal we have an advantage getting moving. Let's talk about shift extension. Factory A4 shifts at say 6200 and then falls in the next gear down to say 4400 and climbs the gear from there. My car with a Yank SS4k shifts at 6200 and only drops to 5500. So lets say you make 300 hp at 4500 and you make 375 at 5500. After a gear change you are accelerating with 75 more hp then you should be thanks to your converter. This more then makes up for what hp you didnt have on the dyno. Not to mention auto cars break way less ****, dont need as aggressive of a tire to launch, and dont have to replace high dollar clutches every 20k. Have you priced clutches One other thing, out of powerband torque. How about, a 20 mph punch from second gear? Thats first gear territory.....ah on the contrary for a stalled auto, have an M6 guy try this and see how it works for him. Here's my car with cam/bolt ons and 3200 converter and forcing it to hold 2nd gear......see how it explodes?? that would be a joke in an M6 car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=napcHyy5WZA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=napcHyy5WZA
#5
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Auto Advantage
Low rolls to 130
Digs
Disadvantage
Any roll to 130+
High rolls
Check this video out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWh6vOImsPc
Those roll races in my car were all at 15 mph - 25 mph.
Low rolls to 130
Digs
Disadvantage
Any roll to 130+
High rolls
Check this video out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWh6vOImsPc
Those roll races in my car were all at 15 mph - 25 mph.
#6
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Even though on the dyno the auto may appear to have a lower torque and hp figure. in fact you have more usable torque and hp with a stalled auto.
A simple way of asking is which is better 400ft lbs from near a dead stop all the way to the top constant of 400ftlbs in a near flat curve with the right converter. Or as with the stick a big curve where the only time you see max torque is at or near the top of each gear even though that max torque is a little higher you can only use it for a short time.
A simple way of asking is which is better 400ft lbs from near a dead stop all the way to the top constant of 400ftlbs in a near flat curve with the right converter. Or as with the stick a big curve where the only time you see max torque is at or near the top of each gear even though that max torque is a little higher you can only use it for a short time.
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Thanks guys, helped solidify a few things in my mind. I guess for racing, I just need a more serious tire for the street. Currently, I roast the tires if I start at anything below 40 mph. :/
Also thanks performabuilt for that input.
I will be doing an 80 mm turbo /4l80e combo in the near future, and I was planning on coming to you guys if I had my automatic fears dissolved.
Also thanks performabuilt for that input.
I will be doing an 80 mm turbo /4l80e combo in the near future, and I was planning on coming to you guys if I had my automatic fears dissolved.