Yank SS3600 or PT3800 for a daily driver/roll racing?
#1
Yank SS3600 or PT3800 for a daily driver/roll racing?
My T/A is a bolt-on/mild cam car (only spins to 6200rpms) that serves as my daily driver. I have 3.73 gears, so I know that'll help with some looseness of the stall. I'm planning on installing a stall soon and was looking for some input between these two choices.
I would rather have a strong top-end converter than a strong 60-foot converter, as the car doesn't see the track, but primarily roll races (don't want to destroy the 10 bolt just yet) and the occasional dig run.
I know Yank's PT series is known for being strong on the top end, but I'm also afraid it will be too lose for a daily driver.
On the other hand, I've heard the ss3600 is great as a daily driver, but fades quickly in the top end (zips up flame suit).
I'm just looking for advice from people who have/had these converters and their experience with them.
I would rather have a strong top-end converter than a strong 60-foot converter, as the car doesn't see the track, but primarily roll races (don't want to destroy the 10 bolt just yet) and the occasional dig run.
I know Yank's PT series is known for being strong on the top end, but I'm also afraid it will be too lose for a daily driver.
On the other hand, I've heard the ss3600 is great as a daily driver, but fades quickly in the top end (zips up flame suit).
I'm just looking for advice from people who have/had these converters and their experience with them.
#2
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My T/A is a bolt-on/mild cam car (only spins to 6200rpms) that serves as my daily driver. I have 3.73 gears, so I know that'll help with some looseness of the stall. I'm planning on installing a stall soon and was looking for some input between these two choices.
I would rather have a strong top-end converter than a strong 60-foot converter, as the car doesn't see the track, but primarily roll races (don't want to destroy the 10 bolt just yet) and the occasional dig run.
I know Yank's PT series is known for being strong on the top end, but I'm also afraid it will be too lose for a daily driver.
On the other hand, I've heard the ss3600 is great as a daily driver, but fades quickly in the top end (zips up flame suit).
I'm just looking for advice from people who have/had these converters and their experience with them.
I would rather have a strong top-end converter than a strong 60-foot converter, as the car doesn't see the track, but primarily roll races (don't want to destroy the 10 bolt just yet) and the occasional dig run.
I know Yank's PT series is known for being strong on the top end, but I'm also afraid it will be too lose for a daily driver.
On the other hand, I've heard the ss3600 is great as a daily driver, but fades quickly in the top end (zips up flame suit).
I'm just looking for advice from people who have/had these converters and their experience with them.
#3
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
I have run both the SS3600 and PT4000 and with 3.73 gears. I know it's not the the PT3800 but close enough. I like/dislike things about both...The SS3600 is the clear winner for street driving, more tight and more fun. The car felt more "torquey" and it was simply better for the street. I could blip the throttle and literally demolish the tires or put the car completely sideways, alot of fun! Top-end felt good but not as good as the PT4000 which wins that category. It's got some serious ***** but doesn't seem to wake up until 4k+ rpm. I love the PT4000 at the track but it's pretty damn loose on the street. Since I am more into track times it suits me better but I miss the SS3600 and would swap it back in a heartbeat if I drove the car on the street more.
I ran both converters with my heads/cam setup yet they made the car feel drastically different. With the PT4000 my car feels like a car with a large cam as the low-end is lacking (I need more gears to take advantage of the stall) and it comes alive in the higher rpm's. The SS3600 made it feel like a car with a mild street cam where the car has power all throughout the rpm range. I would get the SS3600 since the car is a DD, I DD'd mine for 2hrs. a day with the SS3600 and I loved every second of it!
BTW: Stop roll racing and start dig racing. It's fun to have a nice stall + tires and beat up on cars with alot more power. Use that automatic to your advantage
I ran both converters with my heads/cam setup yet they made the car feel drastically different. With the PT4000 my car feels like a car with a large cam as the low-end is lacking (I need more gears to take advantage of the stall) and it comes alive in the higher rpm's. The SS3600 made it feel like a car with a mild street cam where the car has power all throughout the rpm range. I would get the SS3600 since the car is a DD, I DD'd mine for 2hrs. a day with the SS3600 and I loved every second of it!
BTW: Stop roll racing and start dig racing. It's fun to have a nice stall + tires and beat up on cars with alot more power. Use that automatic to your advantage
#4
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My SS4k goes a tad over 2k to get the car moving. My Edge 3200 2.3 went a tad under 2k to get the car moving. WOT, they are 2 different animals. I say SS4k and part of that reason is ^^post. You dont want to make your car less fun to drive. With a decent set of DRs they will fight for grip and mostly hang on even with stock suspension. It can still be difficult to hook from a dead stop though. Non-DR street tires, forget about it. It will wipe them clean from a 40 punch, no bullshit.
#5
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Running a 3600 FTI converter with the billet front cover. STR 1.78. I was in the same boat as a lot of people; Should I go 35ish or 4xxx stall for my car that I drive on the street.
I Went with the slightly smaller stall with a low STR. Never plan on spraying. Never taken it to the track some I cant promise any times but on the street its nice and tight, still pulls nice up top too. I had driven cars with an ss4000 and pt4400. Id say if your going for maximum results at the track go big or go home but for more of a daily car just get the smaller stall and see how you like it. Could always re-stall it.
I Went with the slightly smaller stall with a low STR. Never plan on spraying. Never taken it to the track some I cant promise any times but on the street its nice and tight, still pulls nice up top too. I had driven cars with an ss4000 and pt4400. Id say if your going for maximum results at the track go big or go home but for more of a daily car just get the smaller stall and see how you like it. Could always re-stall it.
#6
I know there are more stalled Yank cars on this site. Why do you like the converter you have/had?
#7
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
Just to throw it out there check out the Circle D 4C, it may be a good fit for you. I have talked to Chris at Circle D a few times and I am very impressed with their service, reputation, quality etc. I haven't yet used them but more than likely he will get my business next. Just throwing out another option for you.
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#8
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I went from a 3600 stall to the PT4000 in my heads/cam car. I don't have any back to back track comparisons as other items were installed before the track reopened. On the drive after the PT4000 install 1st and 2nd felt no different. The 3rd gear pull amazed me though. It honestly felt like a small nitrous shot comparing the 2 converters, and I up until that point I was very happy with my old converter.
#9
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I have a pt4000. its a monster at the track. pulls pulls and PULLS. ran a 12.1@113 with my stock motor. BABIED out the hole. Once I get some drag radials I know its a 11.8 car. stock motor.
Im content with the pt4000 on the street. I have 3.23 gears. Im used to it now so I dont notice looseness. The only thing that sucks is you cant go fast real quick. what I mean is, like I can punch it...and it will go forward, then it will kick in harder. so ill spin a little, then ill spin harder 10 feet later. So it lacks that instant hit, so you cant really show off. Its got a fairly low str. 2.2 I believe. This means it does more work over a distance as opposed to the SS series which have a higher Str. they hit harder, but do less work over a distance. It will still instant smoke my tires from a dead stop though.
Im about to get a rear with 3.73's so Ill know the difference soon.
If your serious about the track, or even roll racing from like 30-100 then pt series all the way.
Id go ss series if you just like hitting it for a few seconds.
and go with a 4000! you wont regret it. dont do that 3800 stuff.
Im content with the pt4000 on the street. I have 3.23 gears. Im used to it now so I dont notice looseness. The only thing that sucks is you cant go fast real quick. what I mean is, like I can punch it...and it will go forward, then it will kick in harder. so ill spin a little, then ill spin harder 10 feet later. So it lacks that instant hit, so you cant really show off. Its got a fairly low str. 2.2 I believe. This means it does more work over a distance as opposed to the SS series which have a higher Str. they hit harder, but do less work over a distance. It will still instant smoke my tires from a dead stop though.
Im about to get a rear with 3.73's so Ill know the difference soon.
If your serious about the track, or even roll racing from like 30-100 then pt series all the way.
Id go ss series if you just like hitting it for a few seconds.
and go with a 4000! you wont regret it. dont do that 3800 stuff.
#10
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I have run both the SS3600 and PT4000 and with 3.73 gears. I know it's not the the PT3800 but close enough. I like/dislike things about both...The SS3600 is the clear winner for street driving, more tight and more fun. The car felt more "torquey" and it was simply better for the street. I could blip the throttle and literally demolish the tires or put the car completely sideways, alot of fun! Top-end felt good but not as good as the PT4000 which wins that category. It's got some serious ***** but doesn't seem to wake up until 4k+ rpm. I love the PT4000 at the track but it's pretty damn loose on the street. Since I am more into track times it suits me better but I miss the SS3600 and would swap it back in a heartbeat if I drove the car on the street more.
I ran both converters with my heads/cam setup yet they made the car feel drastically different. With the PT4000 my car feels like a car with a large cam as the low-end is lacking (I need more gears to take advantage of the stall) and it comes alive in the higher rpm's. The SS3600 made it feel like a car with a mild street cam where the car has power all throughout the rpm range. I would get the SS3600 since the car is a DD, I DD'd mine for 2hrs. a day with the SS3600 and I loved every second of it!
BTW: Stop roll racing and start dig racing. It's fun to have a nice stall + tires and beat up on cars with alot more power. Use that automatic to your advantage
I ran both converters with my heads/cam setup yet they made the car feel drastically different. With the PT4000 my car feels like a car with a large cam as the low-end is lacking (I need more gears to take advantage of the stall) and it comes alive in the higher rpm's. The SS3600 made it feel like a car with a mild street cam where the car has power all throughout the rpm range. I would get the SS3600 since the car is a DD, I DD'd mine for 2hrs. a day with the SS3600 and I loved every second of it!
BTW: Stop roll racing and start dig racing. It's fun to have a nice stall + tires and beat up on cars with alot more power. Use that automatic to your advantage
My current Circle D 5000 is very similar in performance to the PT4400, but slightly tighter. With either converter, anything below 40 is a joke with street tires. On cold days, 50 can be a white-knuckle ride. But if pedaled just right, low-end is a thing of beauty. Both setups were with 3.23's. I thought the SS was a great street converter, but too tight. In that regard, I might be weird though. Like I've said, the looser converters just work better in my car. I can't stand tight converters....it just feels like the car is holding back.
#11
Fti?
Called FTI for an opinion today (that 3 year warrantee/restall period is enticing), and they mentioned a stall with a low STR, like around 1.8 (still 3600 stall), and that would suit my needs best. They said it would be tight for daily driving, but pull like a freight train up top (shift extensions still around 5100).
Damn, I'm all kinds of confused now, and the tax return sales end Monday, so I need to decide before then!
Damn, I'm all kinds of confused now, and the tax return sales end Monday, so I need to decide before then!
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My car can't hook up enough to get a decent 60' and I
went in the opposite direction from what people here
are telling you. I went for a low STR, high efficiency
design that nobody but Fuddle would build for me (at
the time). 3500/2.0, multiplies torque out to 5000RPM
where a higher-STR at similar RPM would not. I didn't
want a paddlewheel feel like I noticed on others' cars
with converters like the TCI 3500/2.5. I can cruise level
at 1500RPM, and with only 3.42s it will spin the tires to
about halfway through second gear. 95% delivered
efficiency, going by the RPM/RPM numbers at 6000 in
my datalogs. I also have logs showing the torque mult
at 5000, dropping as the clutch pulls in on a WOT
lockup.
The other thing that I went for, but nobody mentions,
is that really beefy lockup clutch. Something that small,
performance converters often are inferior for, especially
if you do not tune transmission params to provide more
low-to-mid-pedal line pressure and kil the stupid "slip
learning" scheme.
I wish more vendors would offer a "hot street" model,
and not fixate on the slicks-and-drag-suspension crowd
to exclusion.
went in the opposite direction from what people here
are telling you. I went for a low STR, high efficiency
design that nobody but Fuddle would build for me (at
the time). 3500/2.0, multiplies torque out to 5000RPM
where a higher-STR at similar RPM would not. I didn't
want a paddlewheel feel like I noticed on others' cars
with converters like the TCI 3500/2.5. I can cruise level
at 1500RPM, and with only 3.42s it will spin the tires to
about halfway through second gear. 95% delivered
efficiency, going by the RPM/RPM numbers at 6000 in
my datalogs. I also have logs showing the torque mult
at 5000, dropping as the clutch pulls in on a WOT
lockup.
The other thing that I went for, but nobody mentions,
is that really beefy lockup clutch. Something that small,
performance converters often are inferior for, especially
if you do not tune transmission params to provide more
low-to-mid-pedal line pressure and kil the stupid "slip
learning" scheme.
I wish more vendors would offer a "hot street" model,
and not fixate on the slicks-and-drag-suspension crowd
to exclusion.
#18
After doing some reading and searching through the archives, it seemed that a low str would suit my needs best in a 3600. Fti hooked me up with a tight driving converter that should pull particularly hard up top in rpms. Should be here in a week or so, and I'll create another thread with an update.
Thanks for the advice everyone.
EDIT: By the way, I was leaning towards the PT3800 for quite a while, but after PM'ing various members, it sounded like it might have been a bit loose for my liking. Some may not mind it, but having no first-hand experience with converters, I figured I didn't want something that could potentially make daily driving a chore.
Thanks for the advice everyone.
EDIT: By the way, I was leaning towards the PT3800 for quite a while, but after PM'ing various members, it sounded like it might have been a bit loose for my liking. Some may not mind it, but having no first-hand experience with converters, I figured I didn't want something that could potentially make daily driving a chore.
Last edited by squirts11; 03-12-2010 at 05:29 PM.