4L80E rubbing BMR trans crossmember...
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Just wanted to get some thoughts/input on this...
I am seeing some contact/rubbing spots on my (~5 year old) BMR 4L80E crossmember. It's not the curve on the edge of the pan rubbing, it's making contact with the crossmember where the pan meets the case. I shimmed up the trans mount off the crossmember with 4 washers to try to raise it up (about 1/2" total) but it's still making contact.
I sent the pics in to BMR tech support for them to take a look, and they asked if I was running an aftermarket pan and/or if I could clearance the edge of the pan to clearance it a bit (which I would have already done if that's where it was making contact)... This doesn't seem to be an option since it's not just rubbing the pan edge. They said they'd seen a few others like this and they all rubbed in the same spot.
Should I try to take the crossmember to a machine shop and have them crush/flatten that spot a bit ? Try to shim the mount up more, or maybe shim it up more combined with washers between the crossmember and the body ? Maybe slot the mounting holes for the mount and body bolts a little so I can slide the crossmember over a hair ?
Thanks for any ideas...
Rob (Bad30th)
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696309894.jpg)
I am seeing some contact/rubbing spots on my (~5 year old) BMR 4L80E crossmember. It's not the curve on the edge of the pan rubbing, it's making contact with the crossmember where the pan meets the case. I shimmed up the trans mount off the crossmember with 4 washers to try to raise it up (about 1/2" total) but it's still making contact.
I sent the pics in to BMR tech support for them to take a look, and they asked if I was running an aftermarket pan and/or if I could clearance the edge of the pan to clearance it a bit (which I would have already done if that's where it was making contact)... This doesn't seem to be an option since it's not just rubbing the pan edge. They said they'd seen a few others like this and they all rubbed in the same spot.
Should I try to take the crossmember to a machine shop and have them crush/flatten that spot a bit ? Try to shim the mount up more, or maybe shim it up more combined with washers between the crossmember and the body ? Maybe slot the mounting holes for the mount and body bolts a little so I can slide the crossmember over a hair ?
Thanks for any ideas...
Rob (Bad30th)
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696309894.jpg)
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696309895.jpg)
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I just installed the same piece a few months ago and it rubs in the same spot. It looks to me its the case that touches and not the pan. Been meaning to get under there and take a look to see if its just a or design or another issue.
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Well after looking into how much it would cost locally to have it cut/welded, I just bought a crossmember from Midwest Chassis.
I bet this helps a LOT with the vibration I've had.
Rob (Bad30th)
I bet this helps a LOT with the vibration I've had.
Rob (Bad30th)
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I spoke with Eric and we disussed this, since I have a BMR tq arm and wanted to use his crossmember...
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I have the MWC short torque arm that mounts to the body. If you have a shorter torque arm that doesn't mount to the side of the trans (MWC, Spohn, BMR etc) it should fit fine, but that's good info for folks with stock or long torque arms that mount to the trans.
Rob (Bad30th)
Rob (Bad30th)
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No more rubbing ! The crossmember swap also relocated my trans up about another 1" higher. I put a jack with a piece of wood under the trans and lifted it just enough to take the load off the BMR crossmember, removed it, and when I connected the MWC crossmember to the trans mount even with the 4 washers removed (1/2" spacer) I had stacked under the trans mount with the BMR unit there was still another 1/2" or so of space between the MWC mount and the chassis on both sides.
With the 4 washers stacked under the trans mount with the BMR crossmember, the driveshaft was very close to 4 o'clock on the driveshaft loop, about 3/8" clearance. Now it's almost exactly centered.
A quick test drive verified that the vibration in the cabin is a LOT better now that the trans isn't touching the crossmember.
So, killed lots of unexpected birds with one stone ! Woot !![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
...plus, it's not powdercoated RED ! Heh. That's what I got for letting a shop order it, heh. Looks much better with black powdercoat that matches everything else.
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Pics :
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696312907.jpg)
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696312908.jpg)
With the 4 washers stacked under the trans mount with the BMR crossmember, the driveshaft was very close to 4 o'clock on the driveshaft loop, about 3/8" clearance. Now it's almost exactly centered.
A quick test drive verified that the vibration in the cabin is a LOT better now that the trans isn't touching the crossmember.
So, killed lots of unexpected birds with one stone ! Woot !
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
...plus, it's not powdercoated RED ! Heh. That's what I got for letting a shop order it, heh. Looks much better with black powdercoat that matches everything else.
Cheers,
Rob (Bad30th)
Pics :
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696312907.jpg)
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696312908.jpg)
![](http://www.fquick.com/images/vehicles/full/3696312910.jpg)
Last edited by Bad30th; 03-31-2010 at 08:02 PM.