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Yank is in! Question on it, see last post

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Old May 7, 2010 | 08:47 AM
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Default Yank is in! Question on it, see last post

I got a my present in the mail from dave today, looks so pretty.





this little baby should put me right in my turbo power band, and hopfully allow me to build a couple 3-4 lbs with the two step. we will.


My question is, The directions say to use an adequate "high capacity" transcooler. No problem, but what is "high capacity" , lol.

Im thinking going down to the local autojunk store and just getting the biggest one i can find. any thoughts, thanks in advance.

Last edited by JAX04; Jun 17, 2010 at 10:04 AM.
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:54 AM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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The B+M 70264 is a popular choice, however, for the hot weather we have down south I chose to upgrade to the next bigger size up. If you do not see sub freezing temps, I would suggest bypassing your stock radiator cooler as it tends to actually be a warmer of sorts. My trans runs cooler running a B+M cooler alone without running through the radiator.

This is the B+M that Im currently running

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-M-7...Q5fAccessories
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:58 AM
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excellent thought, i was actually thinking about this the other day, the radiator that is. I never really could see why you would want two different items being cooled by esentially the same "cooler", seems like they would interfere with each other, heat soak if you will.

i will look into the b+m, maybe even get a fan for it. thanks for the info.
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Old May 8, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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Thank's for thinking of Yank.
And please keep us updated on your project.
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:40 AM
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From: Indy
Default launched it finally, seems weird to me????

well, i finally turned over the 150 mile break in today on my yank stall, so i started off with some medium throttle pulls and finally after about the tenth one i decided to brake torque and launch.

Now i had no idea what to expect when i launched this car for the first time. But it stalled up to around 23-2400 on the brakes and a let her loose and mashed the gas. Some how what i felt didnt seem to be right, although i have no idea what im looking for. this trans was freshly rebuilt as well. so the stall and trans are basically new with 150 miles of easy driving on them.

when i let off the brake and mashed the gas it seemed like i was dumping the clutch on a without enough gas and it bogs down then gets moving. Im wondering if i just dont have enough power yet to keep me up there on launch. as i said, ive never driven a stalled auto, so i didnt know what to expect. am i doing something wrong when trying to launch this thing??
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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I just had a 6.0 motor and a Performabuilt L2 trans (3600 stall) put in my car and I have about 500 miles on my new setup. I have only launched the car hard once and it did not act like what you are describing. I only hit it hard for about 10 seconds and I had lots of white smoke and NO bog.
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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" seemed like i was dumping the clutch on a without enough gas and it bogs down then gets moving. Im wondering if i just dont have enough power yet "

what kind of power you have? what tires? what gears?
if you have good power it should take serious tires to bog you
Johnny
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 06:30 PM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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A converter is matched to the powerband. If you brake stall it up, then blast off, it will temporarily hold you at around the stall speed and you will only accelerate as fast as your car has power at that specific rpm. If a car doesnt have much torque, you want the converter to be bigger in order to get the engine to where its making good power. If you do NOT brake stall but instead blast from idle, the feeling of bogging should be less. At least with an NA motor.
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Old Jun 20, 2010 | 04:28 PM
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well, we logged and could def see that i still have torque managment, so now i just need to see where to turn that off at. Im guessing since i have turned it off in the trans section, i now need to go into the engine---tourque managment and start disabling it there.

also, when my converter was built, i told him it would be a around a 500 whp car. its only around 280 now, maybe less with all the bs that is un hooked at the moment. So, i guess i will have to see when i go to tune. I was just trying to get as many bugs worked out now before i make the 2.5 hour trip to go and tune. Oh, and the front o2 sensors were not working so that hurt things alot as well.
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