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Yank Converter Stall Torque Ratio, Stall Speed Information

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Old 05-16-2010, 02:25 PM
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Default Yank Converter Stall Torque Ratio, Stall Speed Information


The stall torque ratio is the multiplying effect the converter produces on engine torque between the engine and transmission
on the initial movement of the vehicle, i.e. A stall torque ratio of 2.0 on a 400 ft. lb. engine will produce 800 ft. lb. at the transmission
input shaft on launch. So the higher the stall torque ratio, the higher the torque and harder the initial launch will be. This means sticky
tires will be required to maintain traction on the higher stall torque ratio converters (2.2 and above). Due to the new manufacturing process,
Yank Converters have a higher efficiency than the competitors. Don’t let the stall torque ratio be the only deciding factor on your converter
selection and feel free to contact Yank with any questions.


("*" denotes stock converter)

Last edited by Yank; 05-16-2010 at 02:38 PM.
Old 05-16-2010, 07:30 PM
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Default Issues with my Yank Converter......

Had my set-up (mods in signature) at the Tuners last night to tune in a 200... N20 shot. N/A it made 400 RWHP which the Tuner said was way low compared to similiar set-ups on LF402s he had tuned on the same dyno. Anyway we proceeded to tune in the N20 shots on my Nitrous Outlet Plate going from 100 to 150 to 200 and each one seemed to be under what the advertised HP should be. Last run we made 569 RWHP and 525 RWTQ on the 200 shot which = approx 170 HP. At that point the Tuner did a slippage test on the converter using RPM, (6100?), 3rd Gear which is 1:1, my 3.42 gears and 26 inch tires. Based on his calculations we should have been showing approx 130 MPH vs. the 113 showing on the Dyno. Based on those numbers he indicated I was experiencing between 16-20% slippage and was blowing through the converter. Anyway my Converter is a Yank which I purchased for my N/A set-up and sent back to Yank in 2009 for re-configuration for the N20 set-up. Along with the slippage the lock-up is also malfunctioning chattering really bad when going down hills and in and out on the Hwy. My Tuner disabled it last night which greatly improved the drivability on the Hwy. Anyway this is not a bashing thread at all because I also need to mention the transmission also went earlier this year (replaced with Performbuilt Level 3) so who knows what impact that could have had on the Converter even though we flushed everything. My 2 questions are these. Firstly, I want to purchase a new converter to handle the nitrous and be streetable as I drive my car all summer. I certainly have no issues purchasing another Yank but I also understand Vigillante has triple lock-up clutches on the lock-up and need to understand why that is a benefit or not. Second, and ultimately most important, how accurately using my signature data and the Dyno numbers can someone pick the right stall for me the first time out because I don't want to do this twice. Appreciate any feedback or assistance...

Last edited by CanadianEh!; 05-16-2010 at 09:06 PM.
Old 05-16-2010, 09:11 PM
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im having pretty much the same problems my friend so im curious to see what type of feedback u get!
Old 05-16-2010, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CanadianEh!
Had my set-up (mods in signature) at the Tuners last night to tune in a 200... N20 shot. N/A it made 400 RWHP which the Tuner said was way low compared to similiar set-ups on LF402s he had tuned on the same dyno. Anyway we proceeded to tune in the N20 shots on my Nitrous Outlet Plate going from 100 to 150 to 200 and each one seemed to be under what the advertised HP should be. Last run we made 569 RWHP and 525 RWTQ on the 200 shot which = approx 170 HP. At that point the Tuner did a slippage test on the converter using RPM, (6100?), 3rd Gear which is 1:1, my 3.42 gears and 26 inch tires. Based on his calculations we should have been showing approx 130 MPH vs. the 113 showing on the Dyno. Based on those numbers he indicated I was experiencing between 16-20% slippage and was blowing through the converter. Anyway my Converter is a Yank which I purchased for my N/A set-up and sent back to Yank in 2009 for re-configuration for the N20 set-up. Along with the slippage the lock-up is also malfunctioning chattering really bad when going down hills and in and out on the Hwy. My Tuner disabled it last night which greatly improved the drivability on the Hwy. Anyway this is not a bashing thread at all because I also need to mention the transmission also went earlier this year (replaced with Performbuilt Level 3) so who knows what impact that could have had on the Converter even though we flushed everything. My 2 questions are these. Firstly, I want to purchase a new converter to handle the nitrous and be streetable as I drive my car all summer. I certainly have no issues purchasing another Yank but I also understand Vigillante has triple lock-up clutches on the lock-up and need to understand why that is a benefit or not. Second, and ultimately most important, how accurately using my signature data and the Dyno numbers can someone pick the right stall for me the first time out because I don't want to do this twice. Appreciate any feedback or assistance...
Please use a PM for this problem....
Old 05-16-2010, 10:41 PM
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Very good info here. hes really not bashing them at all but he saying to them please help??? SOmething is wrong and it needs to be addressed. 200 shot should make close to 200 but What KIT ARE YOU USING???? SOME KITS SAY 200 BUT IN REALITY IT AINT NEAR 200??
Old 05-17-2010, 06:07 AM
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CanadianEh!
Give us a call
at 775 826 9955

We can help you understand whats going on and give you some tuning ideas.
You can not get a correct reading of converter slip on the chassis Dyno so do not belive in the numbers you have, the time frame and RPM in not correct for true converter slip testing.
To be done correctly you must use a constant torque input at max. RPM for regulated time period.
Old 05-17-2010, 01:54 PM
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Where is the love for those of us still running the old ST converters. I have 2 ST3500 converters in 2 LS1 F-bodies still going strong.
Old 05-17-2010, 02:54 PM
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i didnt know you guys made an SS4400
Old 05-17-2010, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Where is the love for those of us still running the old ST converters. I have 2 ST3500 converters in 2 LS1 F-bodies still going strong.
The ST3500 was my first converter and I loved it! When the tranny went though, I had to go larger.

Cool chart though....shows how the converters stack against each other.
Old 05-18-2010, 05:30 PM
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The ST3500 was a great converter but was updated to the SS3600 with a larger clutch and other internal upgrades.
Old 05-19-2010, 07:26 AM
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Dave and Mike this is some great info however I hope your not giving the recipe away for others to just copy your work.
Old 05-21-2010, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by SHOPDOG
Dave and Mike this is some great info however I hope your not giving the recipe away for others to just copy your work.
There is much more to converter design, but I know what you mean as Yank designs are looked at and often used for comparison.
Old 05-22-2010, 04:55 PM
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After a long absence from patrolling this board and modding my car I now have the itch again. Back in the day I had a ST3500 put in which I forgot the stall torque ratio for it was 2.5 right? Pretty loose converter for the 3.23 rear I have. Thinks it's time for some changes
Old 05-22-2010, 07:26 PM
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Great information, Yank.
Old 05-23-2010, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 98maroz28
After a long absence from patrolling this board and modding my car I now have the itch again. Back in the day I had a ST3500 put in which I forgot the stall torque ratio for it was 2.5 right? Pretty loose converter for the 3.23 rear I have. Thinks it's time for some changes
The SS3600 has improved performance and driving over the ST3500 and is the #1 choice and top seller for the LS F-Body.

Any info you need call us.

Thanks for coming back to LS1TECH
Old 05-23-2010, 07:10 PM
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Great info Dave.

To the person measuring slip and tuning on the dyno - As Dave said,that slip % is totally wrong going on the dyno.It can be measured on a load dyno though. Also your car has to be tuned with either the converter locked,on a full load dyno or at the track.Locking the converter can put those HP gains up alot higher.Keep in mind though that these converters are not really designed to hold a nitrous shot like that on the lockup clutch.
Old 05-28-2010, 07:55 AM
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up we go
Old 06-02-2010, 12:51 PM
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to the top
Old 06-02-2010, 07:39 PM
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I have a convertor question regarding stall. So I order a convertor that's a 3600 stall, I up the horsepower from 500 to 700
will the stall speed increase?
will it lose efficiency/have more slippage close to the rev limiter?
Old 06-03-2010, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mike13
I have a convertor question regarding stall. So I order a convertor that's a 3600 stall, I up the horsepower from 500 to 700
will the stall speed increase?
will it lose efficiency/have more slippage close to the rev limiter?
The converter is a torque reading unit so if you apply more input torque the converter will have a higher stall, we would need the torque number to tell you what will happen in your case.

Call me and we can discuss
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