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Trying to pull trans got 7 bellhousing bolts but cant get one... %^#$%^#&

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Old 07-25-2010, 08:13 PM
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Default Trying to pull trans got 7 bellhousing bolts but cant get one... %^#$%^#&

So how in the hell am i supposed to get to this bolt.... Its the drivers side bolt 3rd one up. Got every other ******* bolt but this one. There is not enough room to get the socket with the swivel on there... it hit the trans tunnel. So how do you get that god damn bolt out because there is no straight shot at it. Would a wobble extension do the trick, i dont have one to try....? What in the hell do you guys do??

i swear to god im only putting 4 bellhousing bolts back in, surely its way over engineered.... Its gonna be such a bitch trying to thread all these back in.
Old 07-25-2010, 08:20 PM
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Get extensions and swivel sockets.. Also, do you have the trans mount loose from the body so it can rock down?
Old 07-25-2010, 08:23 PM
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I've done that one 2 different ways.
1. I bought an impact wobble socket for pulling trannys, it's way easier to line up than a u-joint type flex head. Use that, then a 12" extension and a flex and another 2' of extensions. I could only ever get that one with 2 bends from socket to wrench.
2. You can loosen the rear engine k-member bolts about 1/2-3/4" and lower it down to get a better angle on it with a strait extension.

There's other ways, those are just the methods I've used.
Good luck
Old 07-25-2010, 08:27 PM
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These are the type of sockets I was talking about:
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece...FRMeDQodIQ0yZQ
Old 07-25-2010, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Slvr00Bird
Get extensions and swivel sockets.. Also, do you have the trans mount loose from the body so it can rock down?
ive got plenty of extensions... got the 12 oclock bolt just fine... also got a swivel but it hits the trans tunnel and wont allow it on the bolt because of the angle. Trans is completely free from the body. thanks..

edit... i missed the swivel socket, where can you grab one of those?

Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
I've done that one 2 different ways.
1. I bought an impact wobble socket for pulling trannys, it's way easier to line up than a u-joint type flex head. Use that, then a 12" extension and a flex and another 2' of extensions. I could only ever get that one with 2 bends from socket to wrench.
2. You can loosen the rear engine k-member bolts about 1/2-3/4" and lower it down to get a better angle on it with a strait extension.

There's other ways, those are just the methods I've used.
Good luck
thanks bud ill try that setup.. i may lower the k member tonight and see if that helps.

Last edited by got-a-ls1; 07-25-2010 at 08:33 PM.
Old 07-25-2010, 08:30 PM
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The impact wobble is a little shorter in total length, It's got a special spot in my toolbox for just this task lol
Old 07-25-2010, 08:36 PM
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Be super careful when doing it, just remember, those 6 bolts are all that's supporting your engine, trans and front suspension right now. Better to stay conservative at ~1/2"

I bought just the single socket, but for the price I should have just bought the set. Sears and Harbor freight can order them if they don't have them in stock. I found an older auto parts store that had a good supply of impact sockets on hand and got it there. You won't find one at Autozone or O'reilys or those places.
Old 07-25-2010, 10:03 PM
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drop the trans as low as it can go and with the a swivel and extensions, you'll get it. good luck
Old 07-25-2010, 11:58 PM
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let us know how you make out
Old 07-26-2010, 02:08 AM
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Trust me, I remember that bolt well. Its not about sockets swivels and extensions. As I got the bolt backed out, the actual bolt head was running into the firewall. No swivel or extension is gonna fix that. Patience is key here.
Old 07-26-2010, 11:13 AM
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thanks for replies guys..

Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Trust me, I remember that bolt well. Its not about sockets swivels and extensions. As I got the bolt backed out, the actual bolt head was running into the firewall. No swivel or extension is gonna fix that. Patience is key here.
so how did you end up getting it.. lol
Old 07-26-2010, 01:30 PM
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a socket wrench and then one of those ratcheting wrenches too. And a lot of cussing.
Old 07-26-2010, 01:51 PM
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i've done in on a lift no prob..just need to lower the trans down and get extensions and swivel the length on the trans. its a tight and can be a pain. i still have to do it one more time this year.
Old 07-26-2010, 02:15 PM
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yeah i remember that. that was the only bolt i had trouble with the 2 times i installed/removed my tranny. The way i did it was got it out as much as possible with the swivels/extentions and then got it out the rest by hand. This was all done with a lot of patients and time. lol.
Old 07-26-2010, 03:39 PM
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I got mine ready to pull a week and a half ago, took off everything but the cooler lines and the top 3 bolts until my friend showed up to help me. I needed some help getting it off the tranny jack without dropping it lol. Anyway, when he got there, we got the cooler lines and last 3 bolts in 6-7 minutes. The dual swivels are definately the way to go.
Old 07-29-2010, 03:16 PM
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well the swivel socket worked like a charm! that and the tip of my finger for twenty minutes to unthread the stupid thing when the swivel ran out of room.. Now to just get the damn tranny off the pins (any tricks for that, i dont like pulling too hard on the ground especially on jack stands, i jacked it up to take the weight off the pins but no luck yet).... got all 8 bellhousing bolts out. I know only 7 are going back in. lol

this is the first and last time i do this job on jack stands. Next time its on a lift.
Old 07-29-2010, 03:42 PM
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I would have found a lift, so is it going so far?
Old 07-29-2010, 05:03 PM
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Just have to use a pry bar and rock it back and forth (side to side).. One of the dowels could be rusty so it may take some time..
Old 07-30-2010, 02:23 AM
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i fought and fought and then got out the sledge... lol couple of taps got the passenger side moving (hit the bell housing up where the starter would be). Then i removed the dust cover on the drivers side (by the oil filter) and pried there up in there.. Seems those 2 spots are the best places to put the pry bar.. worked like a charm. I tried moving it side to side but that did nothing at all (even got so pissed i kicked the tailshaft in a last ditch effort.. haha). So for anyone who reads this in the future use your pry bar by at the top of the inspection/dust covers!! The pins are right there and it seems if you can pry square on they come off much easier. I just didnt notice this until i climbed under the car completely. I was a little uneasy pushing and pulling while on jack stands under the car after reading the the guy with the mustang who died doing a tranny swap when his car fell.
Old 07-30-2010, 08:17 AM
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I know what you mean about doing it on jacks, it sucks. I did that 1 time. After that, I took it to my buddys that has a 4 post lift. That was so nice, I took my next tax refund and bought a new 2 post lift for $1500. Most floor jacks I buy seem to blow the seals in about 2 years, so $1500 once and be done, or $70-100 every 2 years for life lol. I don't do anything on jacks anymore.


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